WizardBlack

Since you have MS, you are running batch ignition and waste fire, no? It has to be the engine itself if you swapped plugs and swapped injectors and it stayed at the same hole. Did you swap plug wires as well? Maybe a dopey wire? Rolling parts: The car most likely does not have a lean condition. He is probably tuning with a wideband that is reading all cyclinders. The one rich cylinder's exhaust mixes with the lean ones to average out to stoich according to the sensor. Once the one cylinder starts burning it's mix like it should, he will show lean and know how much to enrich the tune to adjust. I'm sure he knows not to boost while it's behaving in such a way.

It's pretty clear that there are multiple things wrong with your car. You'll obviously need to replace all the bad parts (including checking your bearings while it's apart) before bothering to buy tires or get an alignment; just as you suspected. I'm not sure wheel bearings would get so bad as to wear your tires all the way down before a) you notice and they fail completely. Tie rod ends need looked at, etc. Basically, everything needs gone over. I'd be checking things not related to your alignment (like brakes, cooling, etc.) assuming the rest of the car has been maintained like that stuff.

Is it just me or has the sticky grown into a questions/reviews/etc. thread.

Search for pics of the stock pistons. IIRC, they have a number punched on them or something. I have an F54 block; I will look. Aftermarket forged slugs will probably NOT have been in the car for umpteen thousand miles. You could probably wipe on them with a rag sprayed with brake parts cleaner and they'll come clean and shiny.

My aftermarket manual states to use a fish scale to determine the appropriate amount of torque. Not just set it to 'x' and leave it.

I would specify that you need the distance pieces that are in the picture as well. They kinda go together as a matched set.

QFT. I would detune it a bit and be happy until you really really gotta have LS power. Likewise, sorry to hear about that. I've been in the same spot before; pushing the known limits of a particular platform. Your patience can get short when something goes bad after working so hard at it for so long. I did the dumb thing and had the engine rebuilt and then sold it. I was much better off to do the simple fixup (along with anything solve the link that broke), throw it back in and rock it.

Have someone hold a shop vac with the tip removed from it (so it's just flexible hose) and squeeze the hose down into a slit. Shove the slit right up at the drill point and flip 'er on. That'll suck just about all of the chips right away. Just go slower (for smaller chips) when you start to go through.

Well, I've hit 21 psi on my stock L28E with Cam2 and Megasquirt/EDIS/Holset/Cam and 7k rpm. I think the stock engine's detonation tendencies (which are pretty much all solvable, from what I've seen) is what imposes such low limitations on boost/power. Running higher octane can deal with a host of sins in design or tune. Look at my project page (sig link) and you'll see a cooling mod I've done to help as well.

Your 'most likely' is not terribly likely. There are lots of experienced guys on here. I've owned a race shop for years and helped several guys run theirs as well. The reason we state that is that your posts seem to just say 'Help, my arms and legs are broken and I can't figure anything out'. I mean, you can't figure out the size of the pipe? Your only source for caps/plugs is the hardware store? Go back and read your posts and imagine what someone thinks who doesn't know who you are or what your experience is. Calpoly gave you the appropriate answer; practicularly for someone with access and experience to make use of fab materials and employ a welder.

The specific answer is; your fuel will get richer below 0 psi relative and leaner above 0 psi relative. All pressure regulators with vac reference are that way. The only difference between a RRFPR and LRFPR is by how much.

If you replace it, you need to re-set lash. That'll also require a check of your rocker arms and probably a resurfacing. Isky sells a nice selection of cam regrinds. What kind of engine management do you have?

The block itself will hold as long as it's tuned right and it's not some monster turbo/setup. I have an L28E block that is OK at 21 psi so far. I am using an N42/N47 setup at about 8.5:1. I am overkilling the octane to do it, however. Just playing with it and dialing it in for safety. (A common thing on somewhat knock-sensitive setups) Dial it back on the boost and install an L28E engine for now. Save your pennies for more important things for the time being. Don't get yourself in a hurt over a project car.

Fair enough point on the spin rate. I'm sure the OP need to just feel two of them; you can pretty much tell after that point. OTOH, I doubt you'll damage a dry turbo by spinning it by hand when it's built to achieve several hundred thousand revolutions per minute.

Dude, you just need to leave your car alone if you can't measure anything, don't have any tools and don't have the ability to customize anything. Most of us have learned much of what we know from discussion and trial-and-error. You have to muster your motivation and initiative.

I used to buy Walbro's from VE Peterson by the dozen at a time when I ran a speed shop. They have always done a good job for me.

Any way you slice it, AW intercoolers are different than AA intercoolers. There has to be a purpose behind that. Most likely efficiency of heat transfer between the water side and the intercooler.

A ball bearing turbo cannot be rebuilt but by a few places. The nameplate should be intact; it's usually riveted to one of the housings. You cannot disassemble the center section to visually see the bearings, but you can do this: Lay the turbo on the table so the shaft is horizontal to the ground. Reach into the compressor wheel and spin it as fast as you can. Watch how long it takes for it to stop moving. A BB turbo can take 10~30 seconds to stop moving. A journal bearing will take perhaps up to 10 seconds. That's a rough estimate, but you'll get a feel for it. BB will want to free spin quite a lot. I've seen BB turbos you could lay flat and blow on them and they would spin. Journal bearing won't do that.

Yes, the standard reg does indeed raise pressure. The rising rate regulator raises pressure at a different ratio. A standard item raises the pressure of the fuel to equal the pressure increase of the intake plenum in which the fuel is injected. Otherwise, the raised plenum pressure would push against the fuel trying to come out of the injector and reduce the effectiveness of the injector. Therefore, a standard regulator increases fuel pressure by the same amount that plenum pressure increases. ie., 1:1 ratio. A rising rate regulator raises fuel pressure faster than plenum pressure goes up. RRFPR's are generally used only when you want to put a cheap turbo kit together to sell. The RRFPR will raise how much fuel you can inject before the injectors are maxed out. It must be higher than a 1:1 ratio because that is what practically all standard regulators are. It isn't necessarily easy on your fuel pump, however. (This depends on how much boost you are using and what your fuel pump is like) The thing to remember is an RRFPR is a rising rate; not a rising pressure regulator. Even standard regulators are rising pressure.

Yeah, I've seen 'em for sure. I'm looking for something like that. Not sure if I trust my TIG skills well enough to make my own suspension yet. No one on here makes them for sale AFAIK. I've been reading over the rear LCA threads as well. I'd love to have some A-Arm style bits, too.

You still need a vac reference; you cannot just unhook it from a RRFPR. You need to buy a STANDARD rate FPR and hook it up to vac.

I know the current model Mustang I owned (which had been upgraded to rod ended 3-link, struts and springs) handled very well. I bought a Watts Link for it as well but never got around to installing it before I sold it. The car was very controllable. I came from AWD, so I was poo-poo'ing the live axle until I drove one with a few reasonable upgrades.

It's a combination of drivetrain torsional "slack" and the EFI tune. A very responsive tune can also cause this jumpiness. Mine is pretty bad ATM because I have been too busy on other things to tinker with it. The concept of "no fuel" when off the throttle is called DFCO - Decel Fuel Cutoff. I don't think that Megasquirt 2 has it; I haven't seen it. IMHO, ignore it or work around it and install the new stuff. May very well go away when you do.

What would it take to either alter this to suit (or similar) or have TTT or someone make outer tie rod ends with heim joints and spacers, etc. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-300ZX-Z32-90-96-Inner-Outer-Hard-Tie-Rod-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dSIQ26itsQ3dIQ252BCQ26ituQ3dFICSQ252BUAQ252BUCIQ26otnQ3d15Q26poQ3dLVIQ26psQ3d54QQ_trksidZp3907Q2em263QQcategoryZ33593QQitemZ270394123549

Just weld the flapper. That's plenty.