WizardBlack

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-Flange-Turbo-4-Bolt-Exhaust-3.0%22-Inner-Mild-Steel_W0QQitemZ180311655858QQcmdZViewItem http://www.vecco.com/products.php?sub_cat_id=13 http://turboaddictionparts.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=15_19&zenid=24bcc1533e50b7e0b9abfa7254119b78 http://www.aptuning.net/Steel_Turbo_Flanges_p/atp-fls-032.htm

If you visualize the flow of air through your entire intake tract, you might get a bit of an understanding why MAF cars are usually sensitive to externally vented BOV's and why installing the BOV closest to the intake manifold yields the marginally best performance. A MAF meters the actual flow of air, therefore the BOV must be rerouted back into the intake (before the turbo, obviously) AFTER the MAF. If you install it before the MAF, the MAF will register the air flow that is continually circulating. This will make the car run rich when you shift, roll off the throttle, etc. When you roll off the throttle (or shift), the compressed air suddendly finds itself slamming against the closed throttle. Just like a traffic jam, the air piles up against this blockage and then a pressure wave bounces off the throttle and works it's way backwards (upstream) to the turbo. It hits the compressor wheel and reduces it's speed; sometimes even making it spin backwards momentarily. This is pretty hard on the compressor and shaft. Someone smarter than I can compare it to the effects of surge and what typically fails first. Regardless of this, it disturbs the rotational intertia of the turbo and delays respool for the next time you press the throttle. A BOV releases the pressure and allows the turbo to continue to spin and harmlessly vents the pressure until you want it again. Now if you're still with me, you can imagine that installing the BOV as close as you can to the blockage (throttle) allows the entire intake route to continue to flow air forwards. If you install the BOV, say, right at the turbo, the air will bounce off of the throttle and have to travel all the way back to the turbo to find release (so to speak). Installing the BOV at the very end of the intake allows as much of the intake tract to continue to flow forward during vent. The ideal setup would be to install the BOV as far downstrem as possible and vent it right into the inlet of the compressor so it is used to spin the compressor and maintain as much momentum as possible. Hope that helps. On the subject of where to tap for the BOV: The BOV has a piston which is operated by vacuum/pressure and a spring. Whatever line is used to feed the pressure signal to it will get some movement from the operation of the piston. This can cause small fluctuations or delays in the pressure signal. Theoretically it isn't good to tie this line in with the FPR or boost gauge. Likewise, the BOV could fail or leak and alter your fuel pressure. A BOV can even hang open in vacuum (not a problem for MAP cars) but can flutter open and closed, etc (definitely a problem for fuel pressure). Many people install a BOV and crank it down tight so it sounds 'cool'. Most people will agree that the FPR's vacuum line is a lifeline for your turbocharged engine and the boost gauge line is your only chance of knowing when something is going badly and stopping it in time. Anything else on those two signals is an unneccesary risk to them. I personally tie them together so I know if the FPR line is ripped by seeing the boost loss and therefore getting out of the throttle. I also have a wideband, but every bit helps.

Just as an update, I added two cooling circuits as suggested here. There is a -6 AN line from the number five jacket to the water pump inlet neck (to facilitate lots of water flow) and another -6 AN line from the number six jacket to the thermostat housing (for lesser flow and to avoid having two circuits recirculated back to the pump inlet). I kind of mirrored ktm's setup, I suppose. At the same time, I also went from 50/50 water/EG with water wetter to 85/15 water/EG with water wetter. I noticed that sitting still it would be down in the 160's but eventually creep to 190, but running around it stays solid or even a tad low. It stays at about 178~181 *F in full power pulls and cruising along will sit around 167'ish. I will try to take more notes on the heat levels and post pics of my install (if anyone is curious). I am using a new standard water pump and have dual electric cooling fans. I also ported and cleaned up the oil and water circuits in the timing cover. The water outlet (to the block) had a lot of room for improvement.

You need to check and set lash when changing cams. This is a substantial cost and can rival the cost of regrinding the cam, itself. Check on the forums or atlanticz.ca; there is a chart around somewhere as to which vehicle had which cam and what the specs are. Off of the top of my head, there is very little difference. Hydraulic and non-hydraulic should not be mixed.

Dielectrics are fine for this situation. It simply stops moisture from getting in there and can help the contacts stay cleaner. I've used it on about everything electronic. Your pins have direct contact (or should, anyways), so it won't hurt that. Getting the lash right is very helpful. It is good to have a second person so you can feel if it's moving as you tighten the lifters. Don't assume it's still right after you tighten it down.

What are the specs on it? It could be too much for the factory return size or regulator, etc... Most EFI systems follow the standard; ~43.5 psi at 0 psi relative (ie., with the vacuum line unhooked from the FPR). If your car is in vacuum, deduct that much from the base pressure. A car that idles at 7 psi vacuum would have (43.5-7=36.5 psi) fuel pressure at idle (with the vac line hooked up to the regulator). Note to all: do NOT buy a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. A rising rate regulator is usually only put on a normally aspirated car where they're too cheap to install the appropriate sized injectors for a turbo conversion. (Rising rate increase the fuel pressure MORE THAN the increase in manifold pressure). Most standard fuel pressure regulators (for EFI) have a vacuum port and adjustable nut (to set base pressure; could be the issue here if he doesn't have an adjustable reg). Look at the typical Aeromotive regulator; they are very nice and work with a wide array of applications: http://www.jegs.com/i/Aeromotive/027/13109/10002/-1

Anyhoo, I think the OP needs to have the alternator either warranted for another one or tested at another location. It could be barely passing their test. A go/no-go test isn't the best for an alternator when it's borderline. It's probably the most time-efficient step to try and solve it at this point. I have a ZX alt (a converted one) that I don't need (went to a GM 1-wire)...

Have you tried a big thick rubber band or something? Electronic contact cleaner and then some dielectric grease? I was much happier with the car once I got the MS on. The EDIS made it so much nicer, as well. I am picky with electronics since I used to tune turbo cars for a living. I once had a customer that wanted to wire in his own AEM standalone into his first generation eagle talon (for stripped out highway and drag). He used all butt connectors (he didn't buy a pnp model) and had such a rat's nest. Whenever it did the same thing, he'd reach over to the passenger floor and jiggle the rat's nest until it started working. LOL. It's a shame considering the fully built trans and race motor, etc. that he had in it. He just reached too far with his budget, came short, and wouldn't wait to get it running.

Why would the alt fry things if the battery is disconnected? If the regulator is bad, it will damage things with the battery hooked up. If the regulator is good, the alternator will drive the electronics (as they do anyways).

Sh!t, that sounds like my luck. I just had a twinturbo diesel super duty truck I bought new a month ago. Some 18-year old drunk on 190 proof Everclear was trying to flee a cop they clipped (drifted left of center) and t-boned it at 60 mph while in my own parking lot while I was at home in bed, asleep. Totalled it with 2k miles on it. I never even made a payment on it.

What you need to do is tape off the panel from the rest of the car. Wetsand the entire panel with 1500 grit. Paint the area affected (with basecoat) and dust it out past the area where it is tiger striped. After that, reclear the entire panel. Alternatively, for a better finish, do the same thing but rebase the entire panel instead of just the affected area.

Dear oh dear. The spring sure does grow many weeds to pluck. Welcome Cody. You may just want to scan titles in the Nissan L-6 section for the appropriate questions. I swear I've seen this same question several times in the last few weeks. Try the Tool Shed as well.

Can you still get them?

Well, you know what they say; how do you make a small fortune in racing?

LOL, I started right with HPDE in a customer's 350 whp EVO VIII. Nothing like blowing past brand new M3's and C5's in straights and corners. However, it sucks getting stuck behind someone with ~130 whp and no mirror, apparently. Mid-Ohio is a nice course. They're right; you're hooked and screwed. Learn to manage it is all I can say. Road racing is tricky because it's expensive just to keep up with the consumables; let alone improving performance.

This is what I did. I seriously doubt a slightly off kilter cut would mess with the balance to any substantial effect. I have maybe a few hundred "fun" miles on mine. I recently disassembled the motor, inspected the timing cover, oil pump shaft, etc. No problems. I do know that cutting the shaft would make my method of install harder. I suppose you could just stick the shaft on the oil pump and wiggle it in to place.

Skip fancy colors and paint it with POR15. IMHO. Much greater impact and scuff resistance. Not to mention the rust resistance. I guess that's a vote for black. If you had metallic 'dust' in your sump, your whole engine is contaminated and needs flushed or it will recirculate and damage everything when you put it back together. BTW: Great looking paint job! It changes things so much once the beast has some sexy clothes on, eh?

Well, I mean, RTV would work. I was looking for a re-usable and clean install.

I think all fuel rails are the same; they're 5/16" for both.

It's easy enough to check. I'd do it even simply because the engine has a lot of miles on it. If you do that, may as well put a cam (or regrind) in it. You would already be paying for the expensive part.

I have always had a leaking valve cover gasket on my car and I know it isn't a cover or head problem. It's the gasket itself. The Fel-Pro gaskets have some kind of two-layer paper material with a metal weave in the middle. The problem is, the metal weave leaves a nice channel for oil to seep out. With an internally oiled cam, the thing seems to just about shoot right at the side of the valve cover and down into this area. Anyways, I looked about and found a manufacturer that can make them. He doesn't currently, but would even do a one-off for me as a start. He usually makes aircraft gaskets since those guys HAVE to have leaks sealed up. He is fairly close to me (one state over) and I've dealt with plenty of vendors in the past (since I have a tier 1 auto business; I make "Genuine OEM" parts). I know according to the rules that I cannot do a group buy on these (and I am not going to get in the middle anyways), but if I work with the guy to get the design honed, is anyone interested in buying one of these? Pessimistically, I'd expect them to go for ~$35. Not asking for a list, not asking for money, etc. Just talk and curiosity. I can have just one made for myself; I don't need to make promises to him to get what I need for myself. However, it will determine just how picky and detailed I get before I am happy with the final design. The other thing is, I need a spare valve cover. I gave my spare away when I shipped a good P90 to someone...

Does it need 10 minutes to start doing it every time you start up from cold or did it run good for 10 minutes and now is running badly from the very start each time? Sounds like lifted circuitry, too.

Yep, I didn't have to do straight 90's, but I did use approximately 45 to 60 degree bends to tuck it a bit more. Good thing to consider when picking a muffler.

I've built cars that yield over 700 crank hp with a -8 feed and -6 return. A -6 feed (6/16" or 3/8") and 5/16" for return will be fine for 400 hp, but if you're in there and installing lines...

Proform is a Chinese brand. They are cheap. Many of their parts fail. Do you want that on your 2JZ? Just buy a Walbro 255 Lph pump. Likewise, the stock pump should work. You have to realize that the amount of fuel a pump will flow is totally dependent upon the amount of pressure it must put out, as well. A lift pump (from the fuel cell) to the surge tank is essentially at zero pressure (open discharge) and is therefore under very little load. A Walbro pump is under $100 and it's a set it and forget it situation (for a long time). Don't skimp on fuel; it's insurance for a forced induction engine. You don't have to "match" flow between the lift and primary pumps. The surge tank is configured so that when it is full, the rest overflows back to the fuel cell. You want it to always be full. This is relatively easy since the fuel cell pump is in open discharge and flows a very high rate versus the primary pump which must feed the engine at ~60 psi +/-.