WizardBlack

Most everyone wants disposable products, so everyone has to make the same crappy quality to compete. However! Turbos is not something to do this on. Most Chinese stuff of that nature is not made on the proper equipment that costs a lot of money. I will add another vote for the Holset. I got mine cheap off of ebay (the poster didn't know other cars used them as a big upgrade). They work very well. There are better turbos, but it will get you in the ballpark for cheap. Look for HY35, HX35, HE351, etc.

That's what I was thinking. Still a valid question; what is the max power stock pistons will take before failure assuming no detonation?... Maybe I will have to find out myself.

Dude! You have a big problem. Your cylinders are all different diameters! Somehow you grew a seventh cylinder and one went flat! Must be connected to the dogleg cancer. J/K Personally, I think the seal will be fine. Pull it with a tool and you should be in the clear. You don't have to replace the seal every time you pull it out. Make your crank sensor bracket out of billet and it should work well. Don't use flat strap.

Extrude Hone is quite expensive. If you can weld or have a buddy or local weld shop, you can get a bigger manifold made for same ballpark cost.

The Fel-Pro Permatorque gasket is steel; not multi-layer steel, but steel nonetheless.

If you are new to tuning turbos and you don't have anyone around to help you with tuning it, dope the gasoline with some race fuel. Get the estimated octane up about 4~6 points (as in, 91->96 or 97) and tune it. You will have a much wider margin of safety at pump gas boost levels and pump gas A/F ratios. After you get fuel maps dialed in (and you use a timing map from a proven car with a few degrees knocked off everywhere), start letting the octane drop and tweak the whole map richer a percent or two (to adjust for the drop in octane; higher octane runs a bit richer) and you will be pretty safe. Leave the rest of the timing on the table until someone can tune with you to get the last bit.

You need a relay?

Glad to hear it's working out for you!

True, it is modified by air temp, coolant temp, etc. However, I can tell by looking at the map if it looks right; based on the engine, injector and basic mod condition. I used to tune for a living, so I guess most 'squirt guys probably don't have the same basis for what gives them a good feel after looking the maps over.

Oh, didn't know y'all had emissions in NM. I'm personally running leaded race fuel (since I rarely drive the car) and cats no likey.

Well, without those rear sump pans and pickups, the RB swap just got about $1000 USD more expensive for those of us without many alternative choices. Let me look through there.

My autometer reads about 10'ish at hot idle. I have a shimmed turbo pump in my '77 with a Holset turbo on it.

So, as long as I have a line on the back side there, I should be OK?

Ah, there you go. That's a good point.

A couple places sell boxes of silicone plugs that you push or pull into the holes to keep them in good condition from start to finish. They are used a lot for OEM paint work. When you are done, just pull them out, squeeze them to break the paint off and put them back in the box.

IMHO, chain is better than belt. I've worked on more belts, though. If a chain is going bad, it with be stretched and your timing will be off a bit. You will notice. If a belt is degrading, it will either skip a tooth or break altogether. Much worse result. They both stretch. They both need replaced eventually. One needs oil and the other needs some cooling to keep it from degrading.

I had an '08 Ford Powerstroke, so I've looked at one of those for compound turbo charging. It basically works like this: Exhaust side: Engine->Little Turbine->Big Turbine->Exhaust Intake side: Intake->Big Compressor->Little Compressor->Plenum Bascially the little turbo can draw or blow through the big turbo with little restriction. When flow gets large enough, a wastegate can bypass more exhaust around the little turbine to feed the big turbine directly. It's a nifty idea, but a middle sized single turbo gets you most of the way to the performance envelope. Especially when paying for TWO ~$1,500 dual ball bearing turbos like the sample here has.

Great looking setup. Update with PICS!

I understood what ya meant. You are referring to rod/stroke ratio. A better rod/stroke ratio reduces the sideload on the cylinder walls on the downstroke. Likewise, gaining a specific displacement by more bore and less stroke makes the engine more over-square which also allows it to rev better. Look at sportbike bore/stroke numbers. It sounds like your new VQ35HR is pretty sweet. Not so sure about all the modern networked electronics. I would put a standalone on it if it were me. Why the cats, by the way?

ITB's?.... That thing clearly has a pair of throttle bodies on it in the normal location. Are you saying they fabbed their own lower plenum pieces?

LOL, what a silly, silly comment.

Dang, I was hoping someone would try to make a side exit exhaust from a fencepost. LOL! You could even use it to tie a new set of doors into it. Bottom hinge! SWEEEET!

QFT. When playing with modified cars that makes lots of power, lots of heat, lots of electricity and contain lots of combustible gasoline, it's best that your knowledge exceeds your car's alterations. Not the other way around. As a regular member on here, to explain to new subscribers about the nature of this forum: It is NOT a chat site. This is a resource. A library no more contains as many copies of a particular book as people who have read that book there than this site wanting 1,473 threads on a specific question because 1,473 people needed to know the answer to the question.

Well, I've seen cars burn down due to faulty electrical components. I've also wired cars or just engine bays from scratch. Just turn the dial down on the ranting and pick one thing at a time. Ask specific questions (as much as you can) and we will help you "spread the load". I know you don't want to use Painless kits (which is fine), but if you need any more wire, they make good quality stuff. (this comment is mostly for others reading the thread that are behind you in preparation) They have good jackets and high strand count.

Someone already lists a DIY timer setup; just like the DIY wideband controller. It's pretty cheap on parts.