WizardBlack

^^^^ Proper solution for drag, roadrace, etc. Works for everything.

Look up adjustable wastegate actuators. You can control boost with that instead of a boost controller; either electronic or "manual". Look at the pic in this link. The rod is threaded on an adjustable unit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T3-T4-Internal-Wastegate-w-Adjustable-Actuator-T04E_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem190072037952QQitemZ190072037952QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I am not sure on that one, but I will comment on the beta stuff... Why can't they just give us a wretched pulsewidth fuel map!?!? I don't care what VE numbers you put in, it isn't ACTUAL VE unless you tweaked a lot of other factors right. It's just a stupid unitless scalar multiplier for pulsewidth.

The shielding should be grounded at ONE END ONLY. I think the stickies have it somewhere, or the diyautotune forums does. I can peek in mine to confirm if you would like. I have a fully running EDIS-6 with MS2. Look at my project photos to compare your coil, etc. I have a square 4-wire plug on my coil. It's for a non-ford coilpack, however.

Here is 3 by itself.

They aren't wiped off, it's just my pathetic photography skills. I'd say the thinnest one on the rocker side has the thickness of a CD left on it. The lines are pretty sharp (with a permanent marker), so I can see how it'd look like a shadow. I bet you're looking at 3I and both on 5? Here's a more pic to illustrate those. I think this one shows the contrast between the blue marker and a black shadow a tad better.

I went back through the threads I could find, and it sounds like it's a pretty aggressive lash setting. Some of the machine shops seem to like setting them up this way for a 9/10'ths or more build. As I understand it, this will give it a tad more lift and duration (very very minor). As long as it's OK, I't like to run it to avoid more shipping downtime. I drove my car about 185 miles last year, so I want the !%$#*@ thing running!

Well, that's when it bumped while sitting on a table. I'm sure one of the machine shops on here can tell you what to subtract from that for a margin of safety. Still, it sounds like low .600's lift is reasonable as far as interference between these two parts is concerned. I did NOT test coil bind.

OK, here is the image of the wipe pattern on my N47 head with Isky springs, retainers and cam. These are with .175" lash pads. The first image is labelled and the second is not, but it is about 2X as large. Sorry for the images, I had a heck of a time getting a good shot. LASH COMMENTS: To my newbie eyes, they are closer to the pivot side (good), but probably a tad too close in one or two rockers. I was wondering if I should just tweak them all to the valve side by installing +.020" shims (.195")? Maybe +.020 on the couple that are really close to the pivot and .185" on the others? Can I run it as-is? Please comment. I have more pics if one rocker looks questionable. They are laying in a row (left-to-right) from 6 to 1. Note that I value reliability and speed of assembly over last bit of power. I intend to use Cam2 and boost to get where I want to be power-wise, anyways. OTHER QUESTIONS: BTW, I installed the new, cleaned cam, used a shot of WD40 on each lobe and then set cold lash. I then took the cam off and cleaned the WD40 off, installed the inked rockers, reinstalled the cam and rotated it a few times; wiping the ink off of the cam lobes as them came around. Does this sound right? Thanks in advance guys! I'm getting anxious to get this head back on.

IMHO, Megasquirt doesn't have enough map resolution to attempt autotune. Too large of an rpm/load area that is claimed by a single load cell to let the ECU try to do it. I personally like 24x24 tables.

That is interesting. I will have to look at mine. It's sitting on the block while I finish my Isky parts install on the head. It is definitely stiff enough to be MLS.

Yes, they are fully programmable with templates for standard configurations. With this, you could replace the narrowband, but I've never tried it myself.

I might take you up on that. I don't think the VH45 platform is gonna take me where I wanna go.

The Mitsu EVO has 8.8:1 and runs 21 psi from the factory. That's with the "idiot/kid" factor built in. As you build an engine, it's usually gets less prone to detonation. I personally view 9:1 as an ideal boost compression ratio.

You say you're getting RPM in megatune?

On a turbo car especially, you can play with about any A/F ratio you want at such low load conditions for lean burn. Just leave timing alone and play with A/F. I have tuned cars to 17.x:1. It's basically down to drivability. To some degree, if you go too far, the engine just builds more load (to get out of the lean condition) to make the power you need to putt around town. I found 16.5 is pretty good. Cars will be sensitive to surging and whatnot when getting that far so be sure to smoothe out the edges of the map where you taper into stoich or boost conditions. I usually put target A/F leaner from about 2000~4500 rpm and avoid changing the A/F target in the highest vacuum load row and the 0 psi relative load row. This gives you a box of "common cruising load" without tinkering with idle, high revs, boost transition or very very light throttle.

Did you read the stickies? I am not sure what you are saying at times. Could you stick some punctuation in there? Stick the plugs on the wires and lay them on the valve cover to see if you have spark. Where are you determining that you have no tach signal?

Looks good! I love COP, myself, too. What model of coils did you get?

Closed Loop is the same as Automatic Mixture Control which is the same as EGO Control. It is the use of the Oxygen Sensor (or wideband) along with a target A/F ratio table (which you fill out) to temporarily and immediately alter the amount of fuel injected to hit the target A/F ratio. This is typically only done for low throttle cruise applications. Likewise, general rule of thumb is to give it about 10% authority. Anything over that, and you probably need to tune it more. Autotune is something else entirely. Many ECU's don't use it. I personally think they are crap, but YMMV. Autotune uses some level of datalogging to sample what your actual A/F ratio is versus a target A/F ratio table. After a pre-determined amount of samples, it will start to alter your actual fuel table in the particular fields where it has logged enough samples. These changes are permanent until you either go in and undo them or the Autotune makes changes again. IMHO, autotuning is a very lazy tool for someone who should not be tuning in the first place and should be taking it somewhere to get it corrected quickly. If the map is off badly (such as in boost), autotune isn't going to rapidly close the throttle and make coarse adjustments to avoid blowing your motor. I have seen spreadsheet/macro systems before that harvest data from a datalog and fill out an "average A/F ratio" for each load point and gives you a feel for what changes you need to make, but you have to be pretty close to do that and you have to monitor the engine while datalogging.

Anyone know what the lower portion of the plenums are made from on the pic two posts up? I know rearranging stock lower plenum pieces is close, but it isn't exact. The injectors are not in a straight line; nor are the inlets to the plenum pieces.

BTW, since this is a generalized aftermarket thread, try Isky cams. Ron is pretty cool and seems to like the Nissan stuff.

Read the sticky thread.

390 to 290 is a very big jump for virtually untuneable EFI.

OK, here's my hack job: