WizardBlack

Mine were cut off when I bought the car. They are made of pretty thick steel but can't stand up to a sawzall.

Please post updates and your solution, if you can! I am close to doing this myself...

FFS read the stickies.

Pinion Angle

Hmm, they make one for the later cars?.....

He probably got stalled when he realized that safety, suspension and brakes lunched most of his budget.

Click down there and go to post number eight: | | | V

I use 10~15 degrees and it works quite well.

I figured it was time to post an update. The car has been running pretty stable for quite a while. It is tuned out to 16 or 17 psi and typically hits 15 psi in the gears. It pulls pretty decently, but I still want more. I have two disassembled VH45DE motors that may get pieced into one with some new bearings, balancing, custom stuff, etc. We'll see. The differential on the car is welded and howls something fierce. I fear it will lock up one of these days. I have everything I need to put a Q45 differential in (including Modern Motorsports axles and companion flanges), but I still need to either fab mounts or buy the Modern Motorsports setup. Still undecided. The car has recently developed an odd coolant leak along the passenger side of the headgasket outward. Compression and power still seem stable. I ordered a FelPro gasket kit to fix this and determine if the cam timing has been stuffed this whole time (as a potential for low power). I will post more updates after fixing the head gasket, re-timing and re-tuning.

Definitely look at the EDIS-6. I have a '77 with Megasquirt and EDIS. I redid the entire engine bay harness, but left the harness for turn signals and whatnot alone. Most cars keep it separated to some degree. About the worst you will have to do is remove some jacketing and re-loom the wires. Good idea to check the condition of wires, anyways. If you use the relay box (I do), then you need this one: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirti-relay-cable-p-47.html It's a plug and play between the relay box and the ECU. The relay box just has screw down terminals to go out to the engine. I used low impedance (EVO VIII 560 cc) injectors with the MS PWM settings and don't seem to have any trouble, but a lot of variables come into play outside the typical stuff that can hurt you. While you are stripping out the engine wires, make sure you put in proper fuses instead of fusible links and get some solid grounds and battery connections.

Just use some IC waterspray for your system. Water is a pretty darn good solution. I have designed, built, tested and sold systems that worked in the past. I let a car heatsoak for 30 minutes and ten seconds of waterspray brought the post-IC intake temps down 40~50 degrees F.

FYI, blowoff valves don't technically have a rating. They aren't there to manage boost. BOV's use a spring assist along with boost pressure to stay shut. They'll typically hold 1.5X standard boost at a minimum. A good one wouldn't start leaking (READ: not open, just leak) at 40 psi. Your turbo will lunch your bearings way before that. You definitely can't swap turbines from one turbo to another for the time being. Keep it apart until you get all the bits you need.

Ever seen a turbo with a malfunctioning wastegate? I don't know how high the one I had (GT35R) fail went (TiAL with a pinched diaphragm). My boost gauge reads to 2.5 bar and the needle stop was at about 2.9'ish. It pegged the stop on the peak hold. I knew it might be bad and let out of the throttle right away. Didn't save my rod bearings, though.

I don't think an EBC can make the car backfire no matter what it's doing or freaking out about. It'll simply feel like you rolled off the throttle some. Your tune is probably in need of adjustment.

Look carefully at my project thread photos if you still need a system.

That's odd, because all the turbo jap cars I used to work on was completely different: Clean threads Lube studs and install to finger tight Torque to spec in stages Warm car up to full temp Retorque while still warm Done. Doing it that way, they don't come out with just finger pressure. What's the point of studs if they don't bottom out and give you some initial counter-tension before you tighten them with the nuts? For the OP, when modifying Evo VIII's, they only take so much before they will blow the headgaskets due to stock head bolts (like, maybe 360+ whp). If the car comes to us with relatively low miles (like 15k miles or less), we will take out one headbolt at a time and install an ARP stud in it's place at about half torque until they are all in and then torque them in proper order to proper spec. Can be done in much less time (just remove the valve cover for access). You can probably run a replacement bolt for now and install a replacement ARP stud as soon as it comes in.

If you have a built 4G with 10:1 and on E85, then turn the boost up. For God's sake, man, quit teasing the d@mn thing and boost it!

You may as well forget Cometic. They want about 100 as a minimum order if they don't make the gasket. There are some who make copper gaskets with very low (or no) minimums.

Paint only flakes if it wasn't applied properly. As they said, use a paint designed to maximize heat transfer and follow the directions on the can. Only use as much as you have to have.

Bingo. Oil spitting out of the turbo leads to coated intercooler piping which leads to blown pipes.

I've done the same thing and ended up with a bit of creep as well. I wouldn't worry about it as long as it's at a manageable pump gas level.

My 275's are straight wall. Rubber clearance isn't an issue since you will be using flares.

Yup. ... By banks, they are referring to groups of injectors that are fired together. Most people use the two channels that the MS has and fire in banks of three cylinders. A six cylinder car with sequential injection would have 6 "banks". Plain old batch fired would have one bank. Some people use the term "banks" to group things by cylinder head; left bank versus right bank, etc. Lots of ways to use the term. If you add resistors in series, you add their ohm ratings.

Well, as the formula states, V = IR. Since volts will always be 12 on a car, then you have I = 12/R. If you have 8 ohm resistors, then you are using 1.5 amps. Power (watts) is simply current times voltage. P = IV. You can also use P = I^2 * R. So, power is 1.5*12 or 1.5^2 * 8. That's 18 watts. If you run the resistors in series they just add up. If you route them in parallel, then it gets a bit more complicated. You have to square each resistor's value, then invert them, then add them, then take the square root.