WizardBlack

Pictures are needed.

It is nowhere near that simple. Some cars run more compression than that and use 21 psi from the factory. There are a host of factors involved; including combustion chamber efficiency, how the entire engine flows, etc. etc. Using boost to determine power output is almost as useful as using oil pressure to determine output. Particularly when you are talking about general case. I've said it before, but I think the turbo FAQ needs updated for specific levels that are safe with EACH engine; not just the turbo motor, etc. The problem is, there are really very few (if any) L28 turbo tuners out there to give you the information. The fact that there are so many different heads and compression ratios floating around makes it even more complicated. I have a '77 L28E on Megasquirt/EDIS and I run 12~15 psi on 93 octane. I could probably do more but my diff whines like a jet engine so I can't really listen for det very well to push it harder. Off topic: 944's are notorious for blowing head gaskets, too.

You need to search for the details on that. Unfortunately, so many people ask the same questions that it is difficult to actually find the answers at times. The short answer is that, yes, you can do that. I have an L28E that is running 12~15 psi with a Holset with no problem. Again, welcome to the website, but please do search a lot before asking questions.

QFT

Someone makes a fiberglass panel with the bumper holes filled in but the slight "divot" still there... Gotta find that....

Look up my posts in fuel section about setups. I also have correct part number for external walbro pump, etc.

If you relocate your battery, run both a power and a ground wire to the engine bay. Expect to spend a good $50 for the appropriate gauge wires. I'd say 4 gauge is the minimum (read: smallest wire) I would use for the job. Grounding through the chassis is lazy on the part of auto engineers and they invariably cause issues as the car gets older. NOT something you'd want to do on a 30 year old car.

IMHO blowby on turbo cars is the nature of the beast. Just as you guys are doing, I'd suggest throwing a catch can on it and keep going. All the turbo 4 bangers I've tuned use them. You'll know when it's something else blowing oil that shouldn't. Heck, some of the fastest 4 cyl. turbo cars blow a quart of oil in one single digit pass.

If it's SS Autochrome, one of it's variants or an unbadged turbo, run the other way.

Get him to wind out the stock block at 450hp a bunch of times and you will blow past him like he is sitting still. (Because he will be parked and walking along side the road to pick up the hard parts his engine puked) Try corral.net and the other ford websites for every possible bit of info you might ever want.

I'd second the IC piping opinion. I use straight 3" but I'd say 2.5" is a good match for the level you are interested in. Your injectors are too small. Megasquirt is fine (assuming it's been assembled properly) as long as you have a bit of time and effort spent in updated grounding, etc. Don't leave the stock harness for all the motor you are building. Have you considered an EDIS-6?

The locating pin you are referring to can be pulled out of the hole it's pushed in. It isn't necessary to grind it flat. The turbo must have the oil feed and oil drain within about 10~15 degrees of the vertical axis to avoid oil leaking past the seals. The situation gets much worse if the CHRA axis isn't horizontal as well.

The reverse could be said as well to someone having trouble with their carbs. It all depends on what the individual is used to working on.

Bah... just consider it (the better looks) additional motivation.

Sorry, didn't know "+1" was the accepted standard here.... LOL.

QFT

Don't forget to remove every last bit of overspray from the rear hubs where the spindle pins slide through. That's gonna be fun to fit otherwise... Cool idea on the rust removal. Water hydrolysis uses the same solution. Keep up the good work!

Dimensions? I'd call it about a 500 whp intercooler if it has good fin density inside.

I'd estimate you cooked your wiring.

Some cops are so blatantly discriminatory that they even admit it! I used to drive my old "shop car" (Evo 8) around every now and then. It was still a street car, but had a race ported head, race block (lightened, knife edged, no counter-balances, etc), 3" exhaust with GT35R and no catalytic converter, etc. It was loud enough (and deep) to thump your chest at idle. I got pulled over for a little bit of speed (maybe 7 over). He noticed the stinky exhaust, the five point harnesses (seat belts removed), stripped rear interior and no front plate (among other things). He only gave me a verbal warning as he eyed my car over. He said "usually I pull these little imports over when I see a shiny muffler, but since yours is done so nicely I will let you go".

Yeah, the pressure variation is from drops due to injectors draining the rail, not spikes due to the pump. I don't think a damper at the pump would do you any good either.

Ah, well, that's why you have pulsation issues. I know it's not as clean, but routing a line from the other end of the rail to your regulator would fix it. I am sure you know that, however. I think you're on the right track. A big pulsation damper would help the situation, but I don't know how big it'd have to be to avoid it altogether. You're turbo as well so that's not helping, obviously. I bet you've got a LARGE difference in A/F ratios from one combustion event to the next and one cylinder to the next. Especially bad since the hottest cylinders are the getting the most variation.

You are taking your return line off the regulator straight to the tank versus what? That's standard method...

In no way will the wheels fit without flares and get it to tuck. In no way are you gonna have that 9.0" in the front with a rolled lip and get it to tuck. Maybe with a different offset and coilovers, but that's a completely different wheel and not what you can get at with these group buy wheels.

A warm, sticky 225 tire will probably handle it and certain cold, hard 285 tires won't. 10" is pretty wide for 400hp/350 ish torque. Unless, of course, your tires aren't that great, your suspension/alignment is poor, etc.