WizardBlack

Make sure you go over all your primary power and ground wiring; especially along the frame rails and around the fusible links. Lots of issues with voltage and whatnot with those wearing through their associated shielding and connecting with each other. On a side note, Nissan TPS's are notorious for be a PITA. The cars won't run for crap without them working and they are prone to failure. I just ordered a new one for a VH45DE. How's $220 sound to ya? Don't go too far into the factory electronics; you'll end up having paid for a Megasquirt.

If you look at the end of section 3-3, I will explain it if you are still scratching your head a tad. Basic operation: First of all, the upper grey shaft is stationary and only turns back and forth over a limited range of motion with an eccentric lobe to change the pivot point. When the VVEL isn't changing anything, this just sits there doing nothing. Second, the lower grey shaft is the actual "camshaft" as we know it. Look at the big eccentric lobes on it that are inside the big black linkage. As it spins, it tugs the black linkage up and down like the drive system on a train. As it spins, the black link goes up and down. Third, since the green link is connected to the big black link, it is swinging back and forth like a see-saw. It is pounding the little black link up and down as well. The little black link is connected to the blue link that is hitting the buckets on top of the valve. The blue links are NOT fixed on the lower grey shaft, they just spin freely on it. Now, to change the lift, you simply turn the upper grey shaft. This changes the pivot location for the three linkages (black-green-black). This can be further improved by adding your typical valve timing control with a system at the cam gear with oil pressure, etc. I kinda like the design Subaru has with AVCS; which is just a variable version of Nissan's NVCS. The video the previous poster showed clearly indicated this was the case. The awesome thing about this setup is it mitigates the need for new cams assuming you don't need ridiculous amounts of lift beyond the range VVEL is capable of. You don't have the option of assymetric lobes, however. The blue lobe shoves the bucket down, then it stops and goes back up the way it came. Once you do need new cams, aftermarket shops would need to give you new lower grey shafts, larger diameter black links and new blue lobes to affect lift and ramp rate. The downside of this system is you have more pieces and the pieces are moving and stopping, moving and stopping instead of just spinning. Likewise, when you change lift, you also change duration since with less lift you are moving the blue lobes away from the buckets. Imagine simply raising the centerline of your existing cams up and down and you get the idea. Come to think of it, this system might be a tad loud with it not maintaining lobe to bucket contact all the time.

Got me....

QFT

Just pick one of the several maps from someone who has EDIS-6 and a 2.8L with turbo. That'll get you about as close as you could hope to expect. Do a quickie calculation for the ReqFuel number and adjust that for injector size difference and get rolling. Light flywheel doesn't affect spool point. It will help the motor rev a bit faster so it should help from a time standpoint. I assume you have a wideband? I wouldn't even think of trying to drive the car (or run it for long) without a wideband.

Sounds if it happened twice it must be a funky head/tower issue. Otherwise, we're gonna have to name your car the cam-breaker.

Call and ask Ron. He is pretty cool to talk to.

Looks wicked.

Hmm, haven't heard back from him, but I found out it was a false alarm. I had a nail stuck in between the treads underneath a little pebble. I went back over it again to be sure and picked the pebbles out and that's when I saw it. It's just strange that it loses all pressure over night but it didn't start bleeding until several days after the last time I drove it. Ah, well. Back to WOT turbo tuning after I get it plugged.

Well, I guess my warped rim is definitely not gonna work. I've driven the car about 75 miles in testing things since I got the wheels on and it won't hold air. I guess my project is moving on to the body repair process I had planned for winter early. I will be talking to Kim now...

I noticed in the images of this one that they really notched the frame rails down to essentially half of what they were. This makes it a triangular cross-section frame rail. I plan to mount twin turbos as well. I need to find a way to avoid this if possible, however. It seems like it'd be really weak in that area. I was going to build a cage with points running up to the strut towers and from them down to the frame rails up close to the rad core support, but that still leaves some weakness. Hmm...

Sounds to me like the intake manifold is holding him back. A lot. Throw that bumpstick back in there and recheck the timing! If it's still a bit doggy start getting your materials together for an intake manifold. I wanna see another vid like his calling off the speeds on the highway. Classic.

Sounds great. Anyone that is interested can also look at my member's projects for another EDIS-6 install with the 2x2 Caravan connector coilpack. Cygnus, you aught to post those images and that excellent info onto the sticky to compile it with the other stuff.

Hmm... I may just pick up another darn strut housing if I can. I will probably have rod-end LCA's front and rear (and some other stuff) by the time it's up and running for spring, but that really bothers me.

That BRE kit looks just like what's on my car. The most important thing is that the spherical joint at the mirror has a good range of motion. You obviously are going to angle them a bit different than their intended application. Mine go far enough but not too much farther. Mounting the base is key to achieve the desired "stem" angle, too.

Check my "member's projects" thread. I have some almost exactly like that on mine. I think they look pretty good and add a more updated look to the fender mirror style.

You can easily take existing wheels that are known to fit pretty tight to OE suspension (such as the Rota 9"/9.5" group buy info) and then if you add x" to the width of the wheel, you subtract x" from offset (making it more negative).

Three things: Hijack. Didn't even say what car you have. Search a bit first.

I jacked it up and it seems there's a bit of squishiness when wobbling the wheels. It is BARELY perceptible. I know I had put all new Energy Suspension bushings and new spindle pins a while back and more recently I installed new bearing and disk brakes so I went through and checked my LCA bolts and spindle pin nuts. I remember the bushings on the spindle pins had to be ground down on the ends since they were too long to compress when bolted down. I got under there and realized I used the OEM rubber washer pads underneath the washer and nut combo on each end of the spindle pin. I took those off and just replace the metal washer and aircraft nuts. The LCA bolts (on the ends of the inner pivot axis) are supposed to be torqued to 115 ft.lb. Mine were more like.. hmm... maybe 50. I checked the spindle pin nuts and they are supposed to be at 65 ft.lb. Mine were at 5. Maybe. So, I torqued it all down with my trusty new Craftman torque wrench, etc. I thought; "Awesome, I bet my left rear squeek, left rear toe-in and rear wheel slight squishiness is all gone!". LOL. The squishiness is still there. I think it's probably just the sheer fact that these cars have so much polyurethane that causes that. It's not a wobble or clunk; just a slight rubbery feeling. I lowered the car, rolled it back and forth and jumped up and down on the back end. It appears the squeek is gone at least. The left rear toe-in is still a bit excessive. Any ideas on the toe-in? How could that side get like that? Maybe a tweaked LCA at some point?

http://www.atlanticz.ca for the tech tips. Get the EFI bible to learn how to diagnose the S30 EFI.

Depends. If it's just a stock motor with nothing done to it and it isn't freshly rebuilt, etc. then it's more in the $700 ballpark for all that IMHO.

Hmm, definitely something up with the left rear. I also have excessive toe-in on that wheel. Not sure where to start, but I guess I'll jack it up and retorque everything.

If you are getting something that controls fuel you may as well go up to a megasquirt, to be honest. Even the stock AFM is tunable, too.

Nor me, but you have me a bit worried about the bushings, now. I searched and the "big" bushing goes to the back. Therefore, you can't really get them to stick forward more than they should; maybe back. I guess the TC rod bushings are the culprit. I will try to get my front wheels off and support the front weight by the LCA's to get an idea of the "fore/aft" angle on my LCA's.

LOL sounds like me.