WizardBlack

Updates?

Awesome! For other peeps searching, the VR wire thing is pretty common. I bought a good portion of BRAAP's setup and the two VR wires had to be switched just from his car (using same brackets, same VR sensor, diff module).

Very clean.

The pricing shows $150 per wheel. That's $600 new. Add $100 for shipping and we are at $700. Even if you add fairly cheap tires that is about $100 apiece. Now we're at $1100. Add another $100 for mounting them and we're at $1200 for brand new rims and tires including shipping and balancing. $400 sounds pretty decent. The only thing I'm not so sure about is his comment about them being light and whether they'd fit an S-Chassis.

Ah, very cool. Thx for the info.

Yeah, I have Energy Suspension bushings and Tokico springs. That's pretty much it. Maybe I buggered my control arm bushing install?

^^

If you've been "reading alot about it" then you know. Plenty of info on it. Just go to the appropriate subsection (such as S30 or fabrication) and see who the big posters are and look up their posts, etc.

Sounds mostly like proprietary info to me. What has been revealed by the guru's should be easily searchable. Look up 1 fast z and BRAAP for some of the most active head guys on here.

Might need to check a Cummins forum for that info. Being that they are oil cooled, my thought is they don't want a restricted feed like water cooled ball bearing turbos. Mine doesn't use a banjo, but rather a screw-in fitting to convert to -4AN and it very clearly drops oil pressure.

I was under the impression that the car's CAN BUS system required the original ECU to stay in the car to control the chassis stuff. IIRC the AEM box keeps the OE ECU for that. Obviously you don't have the chassis stuff but I dunno how the stock ECU is gonna act with all that stuff missing. If it were me (and it may be one day), I'd look long and hard at the variable valve timing. If it can be controlled (or uprated cams eliminate it, as in some cars) I'd go standalone with a standard cable throttle. The electronic throttle is NOT something I consider a benefit. I'm also not sure how the ECU is gonna like the fuel pressure situation since it controls the situation in closed loop. I used an uprated return style system but I still had to do a thing or two to the pump assembly to get it to "be happy" with it, IIRC. I'd use some poly to make it easier on you when you drive it for long periods of time. I've owned a GReddy TT'd 350Z. It put out 349 hp at 5 psi. I don't recall how much torque it had other than that it was more than the hp. I just used a GReddy eManage that everyone said wouldn't work. There were no standalones known to work at the time. I don't think there is much to eliminate the raspiness aside from some funky exhaust stuff. Turbos help.

Am I the only one that's turned off by cars with 6"+ of foam all over it. Don't bump into it. Not to mention the weight. C'mon guys, do it with steel. Foam is for an "untouchable" prototype that won't ever be driven.

Can you post an image or link an image of one of the guide clips? You aught to be able to get a "hardware kit" for the specific caliper from your local parts store. They usually aren't too expensive.

Eww... good to know, at least. Good thing they didn't come apart completely.

Maybe it's just me, but it seems a bit 'mecenary' to buy the car cheap because it's "in the family" only to partially part it out to make money on it. I don't think he'd like that. Not good for S30 Karma anyways. Have him hang onto it until someone will appreciate the car "as-is".

LOL

I, too, recommend a Profec B-Spec. The EVC-4 works, but takes a while to dial in. Unlike some over-complicated japanese EBC's, the EVC-4 works once you get it dialed in.

Here ya go. Don't mind the delaminating paint on the bumper. The PO didn't even scuff the urethane before spraying basecoat directly to it. Note that it is essentially touching while sitting still. Not to mention many guys have their cars about 1~2" lower with sectioned struts, etc. Likewise, you need more room for bump travel. On a side note, I've never had a car so light and "smooth" that I could roll it along with one hand and also grab a wheel and turn the car by hand while it's sitting still.

Yes, mine hits on both ends where my Xenon 280Z bumper meets the fenders. Just about from 1.5" from the top to 7" from the top. I unbolted the ends (where it bolts vertically to the fenders), drilled new holes and remounted with the ends of the bumper sticking out ever so slightly. It doesn't bother me too much, but I plan to replace the fenders this winter since they are messed up. You could probably make small brackets to hold the ends out a bit that runs to the frame rail inside the wheel wells. It seems the fenders could use this behind the wheels as well (since they split there) anyways. For comparison, I have the typical Tokico struts/springs and no flares yet.

What're the tubes poking rearward with tabs on them for? Might they not need to be braced to the top for triangulation? (just asking outta curiousity; not trying to tell you what to do)

Betcha that's a CT9A Evo in the last pic.

I wouldn't ignore the Wolf3D as well, either.

You also, of course, only grounded the shield wires at one end? If so, it sure sounds like a junk module.

Subaru Master Techs are told to use that stuff in their training for engine and trans both.

Question: Do the local Autozone stores keep their Haynes Manuals covered in plastic wrap?