WizardBlack

Someone makes a conversion kit to bolt an LT T56 to an LS motor now. Check a domestic magazine or site out. I just saw it within the last 30 days. Try ls1tech.com.

What's overkill about a return line? Returnless has no performance advantages; just emissions advantages.

How can you say you installed the stereo and yet be so vague about how it is wired? You need to be precise and cover details fully if you expect anyone to be able to help you diagnose an electronic issue through a web forum.

You AFM won't actuate through it's whole range of motion. Take the cover off the AFM and clean, lube and test function.

The cowl panel has a drainage pipe that runs inside the car (under the dash) to make a 90* turn and then out to the area inside the fender to drain water. That's about right where a bunch of wiring stuff is at.

Typical adjustable masks have a range from 7~11 or so. The higher the number the darker it is. I wouldn't go below 9 unless it's hard to see. The most common setting other than that is sensitivity and/or response and they're usually not numbered; just high to low. If you get into very much welding, consider an autodarkening helmet. It makes a huge difference on being able to place your torch correctly before you start welding, etc. You can easily work with the mask down; I do it all the time.

I have a set of stock front calipers painted black if ya need some.

Backpressure depends on a lot of other factors aside from the cam, obviously. I do believe some guys were playing with backpressure, but I am not sure if this one was tested. The odd thing is that the car isn't behaving the way they normally do with this cam.

If you burn through, you may have the settings right, but you just need to move faster. MIG is a bit tough in that you can't really "tune" the welder to run any speed you want with a particular piece of metal. Try those higher settings on some scrap metal that's a tad thicker. Not super thick, but a tad thicker. The easiest method of hand movement is constant circles. Keep drawing a circle the size of a pencil eraser head as you move along the seam. Get your hands both on the welder and get your face right up on it (not above it) so you can see what you are doing well.

1977 280Z N42/N47 stock motor, stock intake manifold with ZXT turbo manifold, Holset HE351, full 3" stainless exhaust and Borla XR-1 Monster 4" thick intercooler and 3" aluminum piping with Tial BOV Megasquirt and EDIS-6 with aluminum dash, simplified wiring, autometer gauges Mostly stripped interior with Jeg's 10-point cage. Driver's seat swapped to Kirkey seat with 5-point harnesses. Door panels and door innards retained. Aftermarket carpet for front half of interior. Original sound deadening "tar" still there in the interior. Undercarriage was coated by previous owner for rust prevention and sound deadening. Later Borg Warner T-5. Toyota non-vented front and 240SX rear calipers Stock suspension with new struts/springs, Energy Suspension kit Group Buy 17x9" F and 17x9.5" R Rota RB wheels Xenon plastic front lip, CF hood, CF BRE-style spoiler, no bumpers Just filled the gas tank 2500 lbs. even. Scales accurate to +/- 20 lbs.

Need info on how you wired things in. Did your audio wiring run straight off the battery with a fuse and relay (as it should)?

I'm no pro by any means (basically self taught) but it looks like you need a LOT more penetration. Likewise, turn your feed speed up. Not familiar with your welder model. How many amps and volts? It looks like you are sitting on a spot to build heat up but you're just adding material on top of the "weld". Get the amps turned up to quickly liquify your work metal and then turn your feed speed up (afterwards, if needed) to keep up with the hotter weld process. Also, get your torch right down on it and "zig-zag" back and forth across the seam repeatedly.

I am talking about the primary wires that runs from the alternator to the battery, from the starter to the battery and from the battery to the fuse panels, etc. Look up that link I gave you and you'll see some pics. On my car they run along top of the passenger frame rail in the engine bay. That's where mine wore through to each other.

I have an HE351 and it fit right on. Just have to clock the housings to line things up and redo the wastegate actuator mounting. Check out my link in the sig for some pics.

Yep, very old school looking. Nice job. The taillights help balance the black front lip out. IMHO, yank the bumpers.

Mix some baking soda in water and pour it all over the car and let it sit for 30 minutes. This will neutralize the acid that sank into the clear that will later eat up and soften the clear even if you cleaned all the sap off. Afterwards, wash and wax.

You have two Misc Tech posts that I think are related. Please see the other thread for my solution.

Check out www.atlanticz.ca for the conversion. I have one ready to install (had it in my '77). If interested, PM me. You may want to check your ground and power primary cables they could have worn through to each other and you regulator is playing hell trying to keep them ~14V apart. Look up their fusible link upgrade and consider replacing your primary power and ground wires. EDIT: I saw your other thread where you battery won't hold a charge. That only reinforces the worn shielding theory. Your juice is literally bleeding straight from power to ground and discharging your battery.

Take a peek at mine in my projects thread. Cheap on materials and comes out nice. It's covered in Alcantara. It's all down to how complex you make the dash, but it doesn't take much to make it come out very nice.

Hopefully the cast aluminum is decent (and comparable) quality. Otherwise, it might be a tad difficult to weld together. Looks cool, though!

Convert to return style. It's not that hard. IIRC, the 350Z uses a regulator in the tank. If you are not using a 350Z gas tank you should just use a return style system. With a returnless system, you have a regulator in the tank and/or a closed loop PWM-modulated fuel pump with fuel pressure sensors on the fuel rail. I keep getting S197 and Z33 fuel systems mixed in my memory, but my350z.com has beaten that issue to death.

You can roughly measure the diameter of the turbine just behind that lip and get what size piping (and v-band) will work with it. That being said, it's Chinese, so... good luck. If "doing what you want from it" includes grenading and feeding little bits of hard stuff into your oil then you should be set. But that's been....

My Holset has about 0.5" clearance to the inner fender so I am not sure how feasible that idea is going to be. Post some pics! Post up some critical dimensions like T3 mounting face to the far side of your compressor housing, etc.

Post it in the sticky, too.

Too much cranking timing can virtually backspin the motor.