WizardBlack

It looks like the R200 or R230 diff from the Q45/Z32 might not fit too horribly either.

I've built plenty of modern high specific output turbo cars without a damper. I think some of it depends on the size of your fuel rails, fuel lines and the quality of you fuel pump. Small fuel rails make it worse. Small fuel pump makes it worse. Cygnus - Are you getting accurate and stable fuel pressure rise? You are feeding the rail off of the "dump" side of the regulator? Why?

Shaved emblems, drip rails and turn signals. Very nice. I plan on doing the same thing.

Any place to get carbon flares in the regular ZG size that is made as nicely?

Search for a post of his, then click on his username and select "Send a private message...". Click on my name right over.... <-------there! See? Just do that. For images of what to look for, search on body & paint. I'd say it's in a sticky. Flog that search button.

The original mounts are hydro that are supposed to "pop and drop" in a collision. I wouldn't keep those. Many peeps replace them. I'd rather the engine stay where it is. Obviously this puppy isn't built with NVH high on the priority list.

LOL definitely an understatement. Very nice setup.

Is it bypassing the thermostat?

I have used a GReddy kit on my old 350Z and it put out 350+ at ~5.5 psi. Just be sure to pull the motor to install it. It's faster. Make sure you get the header/turbo/wastegate bolted together correctly with good gaskets and you crank then down and use a bit of blue loktite. I haven't personally used the APS kit for the 350Z but I have a lot of experience with them and their stuff on other cars. I personally think it's overpriced, too heavy and sometimes has some glaring flaws and poorly sized turbos. On top of that, they are downright jerks to deal with. They hopscotch dealers in the USA because most can't stand them for very long. On top of that, you are in California, so you can probably throw a stone and hit someone that sells GReddy and spec's in Z33's.

Oh dear... Well I will take a stab at it since I've always enjoyed setting up fuel systems. Anyways, you probably have two AN fittings on top and two in the sump on the back. Get the vent on top routed out of the passenger compartment and away from the exhaust, etc. The other one should have a tube inside of it for return fuel to drop to the bottom of the tank and avoid sloshing/evaporation from the return process. For the two bottom taps, one gets capped and one will feed your fuel pump. Something to consider here; gravity and elevation. Not all fuel pumps will suck the fuel to themselves so they need to be at or below the cell's sump. Some, such as the Aeromotive A1000 are supposed to be able to. (I will get to fuel pumps in a moment). How you mount the tank will partially dictate what type of pump you can get. For a fuel pump, it all depends on what kind of power you expect to make. A general rule of thumb is less than two horsepower per litre-per-hour of pump. This is assuming forced induction. A common in-tank fuel pump upgrade (for modern cars) is the Walbro GSS342 (~$110) that flows 255 lph and is expected to be maxed out at 500 whp. There is an external (or in-line) version of it you can get (GSS347 IIRC). One step nicer than that is the Bosch 044 pump (~$175) that flows about 300 lph and can support 500+. The Aeromotive A1000, most Welden pumps, etc. are extremely loud and flow a lot but are very expensive. Whatever you do, be sure to insulate your mount point for those with a good chunk of rubber. On the subject of fuel filters, you need two. One coarse filter before the pump (to act similar to the in-tank pickup sock) to screen big stuff from damaging the pump. You also need a fine filter after the pump to screen stuff from getting into the injectors which are 10X more sensitive to junk in the fuel. Many of the Nissan filters work great for that. If you are "going big" with AN lines, look at Aeromotive's filters. A 100 micron works as a coarse filter and then they have fine ones for post-pump as well. For lines, -8 AN is pretty common for the feed line and then -6 AN after the rail or after the regulator. Many people use the Aeromotive regulators which can be fed with -8 and then the return line (coming out of the regulator) can be dropped down to -6 AN. I'd say a -8/-6 setup is good for 700 whp (since I've come darn close to that on it), but for a V-motor, you can either use -8 feed splitting to a pair of -6's (same power support) or a pair of -8 feeds with a -8 return (more than you will probably ever need). Here's the basic schematic: [sump on Cell]->[Coase Filter]->[Pump]->[Fine Filter]->[Fuel Rail]->[Regulator]->[Return Port on Cell] If you are setting the system "just for" the L28E, then I'd use push-fit lines with a -8 feed and -6 return and you will be set. I'd setup up to a Bosch 044 pump and you may have to figure a few things out for filters. Hope that helps.

I can't express detail from an RB25 ECU, but if you max out the MAF and it doesn't hit fuel cut, then you will basically peg the signal. The higher beyond this you go, the leaner the car gets. I am sure it ramps timing way down when it gets in that range for protection. Sounds like time for some upgrades.

I have a production paint facility, so we deal with a lot of very fresh paint. I've found that Viva Ultra paper towels does about as good a job as microfibre towels (which we also use) in avoiding scratches.

The compressor itself has spots where it can leak, too.

http://www.atlanticz.ca Look for the EFI bible to start with.

Ah, LOL. You don't have to use AN fittings ya know. Hosebarb and rubber line FTW. But I am certain you're going to need a return line unless you use a returnless setup in the tank.

I think they've got some good ideas for you, but just to answer your side question: Too much fuel is sometimes referred to as "washing the cylinders". Overly excessive rich condition will literally rinse all the oil off of the cylinders and make it tough to get a good ring/cylinder wear. If you wash the cylinders a lot when trying to break a motor in you won't get a good seal. Certain ring materials (usually used in "built" motors) are more sensitive to this. To some degree you can correct the rich condition (and change the oil of course) and get the sealing back, but hardened rings have a chance to never come back. You have to re-hone the cylinders and replace the rings.

huh?

Both good points.

Fuel rails might be fun with that setup, however.

Telling me color assignments doesn't help. WHERE are those wires tied in, that's the question. The last paragraph is the kinda info that we need. It sounds like you already realized what was wrong. You can't pull big amps for an add-on through an existing fused circuit. It doesn't have the allowance to feed it (or it shouldn't). Get a relay to kick on with the ACC wire and feed to the radio with that (plus an appropriate fuse, of course) and you shouldn't have as much of an issue.

I've done plenty of Aeromotive fuel setups, etc. They have filters (that are serviceable) that are fine for post-pump to avoid small particles entering the injectors and a coarse filter (100 micron or something) to avoid big stuff getting into the pump. They are done thusly; [Tank]--->[C.Filter]--->[Pump]--->[F.Filter]--->[injectors] I honestly don't think that particulates are much of a problem for the fuel pump itself except if you have an old gas tank, accidentally drop something in the fuel (grit, etc.) or have a really crappy source for fuel. I've never really set up a "built" fuel system where crappy gas or an old gas tank was used, however. In any event, 100 micron should get anything out that's going to hurt the pump. Leave the rest for the post-pump filter where the pump can push past/around it (in the filter media) much easier. I've no idea what type of filter you used or how fine the mesh was or even what pump you used. Some pumps can, some can't. Depends on a lot of factors, I suppose. I've been told the A1000 can suck fuel to itself but I never trust that when setting a car up. Here's a link: http://www.aeromotiveinc.com/products.php?prod=179

I can't see how, in your case, the lack of the halo would made much of a difference. I would suspect that the halo with padding isn't any stiffer than the metal behind it that you would have hit in it's absence, no? How about sickboy's type of cage? Change the door bars so they are back up to the level of the door latch and then remove the bar starting at the a-pillar and the halo bars to avoid hitting your head? The beam running through the dash and "tee'd" down to the trans tunnel should hold the front of the door bars at the door hinge well enough, no? As in, compared to no cage or a full cage with head impact? Basically make a "tub" cage...

Hmm, that could be a stuck throttle. A stuck AFM would just make it run a bit rich (or really rich depending on how bad). You may very well have both. I'd definitely get both the throttle and AFM cleaned and working freely. AFM's are notorious for sticking open, sticking shut, not shutting all the way, not reading all the way, etc. etc. etc. EDIT: Thinking back to a stock Z (it's been a while), I am not sure how stuck the throttle can get with the solid throttle linkage, but there is a bi-metal idle control device on top of the intake manifold that could be out of adjustment, etc. Could be the throttle stop as well, I suppose.

It's been done of aftermarket pumps plenty of times, but you have to use a much coarser filter. If you use one such as intended for the primary filter that is built in-line after the pump, it will indeed kill it. Most fuel pumps can't pull very hard to themselves.

Very cool. More pics! Updates? How close was the rear two mounting points for the Lex Subframe to lining up with the two on the original car?