WizardBlack

Very nice. Definitely some good info on this thread and some "preliminary" evidence of a solid solution for the detonation/heat issue.

Look at my "Member's Project". I didn't have to have a spacer for mine. I used a Lokar throttle cable, however.

I'm surprised BRAAP, 1fastz and some of the other machinists haven't commented. I have a P90 head, but I'm not ready to spend dough on going through it just yet.

LOL this one won't die.

Hmm, the 4G63 and EJ25 uses smaller valve stems and they get pretty hot. You could probably get sodium filled valves from the 'Chebby' catalogue. I saw a pic of an L head with the valves in it on here somewhere; so someone somewhere did it. I didn't get a chance to see the other stuff, but like you said, the big issue will be getting retainers that fit the new springs and still hold the lash pads. Spring lengths and rates are also pretty easy to get for Chevy. Hmm, I'll have to do some more peeking around. I've even seen Chevy valves used in SBF.

It sounds as if the flywheel sensor may be accurate enough to detect very short term changes in rotational speed (misfires) but isn't accurate enough to be used as a crank position sensor, then.

LOL how did he miss that? Didn't he wonder where the piece had gone?!

Ah, very interesting. I will give that a try. I know the other poster mentioned taking them off and 'shaking them', too. Sounds like another example of the same problem. If this works for me as well it aught to be stuck into the sticky since everyone is gonna have the same issue. Do you also have the toyo brakes? BTW, you might look at my "member's projects" thread and confirm if my caliper orientation is the same as yours?

Sure, it will "hit" harder but that also delays feedback to your wastegate. If you have boost spike issues, running your wastegate signal on it's own hose directly from the compressor housing is one of the first things you should do. For most cars it won't hurt to do it either way. For the slow spool, you have two things; running really rich and spooling very slow. Sounds like a big leak in the intake tract after the turbo to me.

Ah, gotcha. I will have to look over the benefits list again. I was trying to find substantial positives and negatives about the 'extra' logic. If only they'd allow me to tune my fuel in milliseconds instead of the (completely useless, IMHO) VE percentages.

I've done some searching and saw a post that had bowtie valves in an L head. From what I have seen in the search results (not much there) you have to install new valve guides with a smaller ID. The benefits include approx. fifty times more aftermarket support (yes, I'm exaggerating, but then again...) for valve materials and sizes and a lighter valve. Evidently the stem length is the same (or very close) as is the tip of the valve? I was curious about this as I am gathering info for a possible head buildup (for turbo) next year. I understand going up to +3mm on the exhaust (+2mm without eyebrowing the block?) is beneficial. I did not find any comments about upsizing the intake valve size for any benefit. Please comment!

Gotcha; thank you.

Here's me (Mark) and my wife (Catie). Sorry for the blurred pic; my mother-in-law was sipping too much coffee. > I wanted to give a big thanks to her for supporting me in my never-ending car modding habit and for being a good sport about the expenditures. I am also happy that she has joined in on helping pick mods and the overall design/layout of the car. She is excited to cruise around in the car a bit. I've been holding her off until I thought it was safe/reliable enough to run about with passengers.

For the megasquirt guys, here's a few images under the dash. I used a relay box. It's bolted to the firewall. The ECU is mounted to custom aluminum supports that are bolted to original mounting tabs on the trans tunnel. I figured this would give it some vibration resistance and make it easy to access. I have a second piece to fab up yet, but for the time being it is taped to the two supports. It looks messy under there but that's all the wiring in the car and I haven't gone back through and run everything together with split loom yet. You'll see from the second shot how it looks from the driver's seat. Likewise, the third shows you a shot from the left end of the dash. You'll see a socket being used to space the steering column up to give me some more room until I install an aftermarket (ie., lighter) steering column. In the first shot you will see the wideband sensor wire running down through an original hole in the trans tunnel. It's a straight shot to the wideband bung. Likewise, I made the dash myself with an electric nibbler and a brake bender. The ends have a 1" tab on all ends for more rigidity and for the provision to mount end-plates if I so wish. There are three panels to this one-piece dash; the top (horizontal to the ground), the face (which you mount the gauges in) and a 2" plate underneath for more rigidity. The face is at about 78 degrees which seems to point the gauges straight at my head. There are a total of 6 mounting points with 4 aluminum brackets (two to the trans tunnel in the center and two at the top on each end to a pair of tabs on the firewall) and two 4mm bolts with spacers for original tabs up at the base of the windshield to the top-center of the dash. It's stiff enough that we thought about mounting a sliding laptop tray on the passenger side to the bottom 2" strip. I weighed the dash itself (not with the mounting brackets) and it came in at 3.8 pounds. The center area has three rows. First row: wideband, boost, oil press, coolant temp. Second row: , rad fans, blank, blank. Third row: Ignition, turn signal, , marker lights. The funky shiny spots are just where I used a metal polisher wheel to take out rough spots and scratches on the aluminum.

Here are some shots of the interior. I don't have anything but a factory butterscotch colored passenger seat, yet. Another Kirkey seat and harness is close to the top of the list, now. No one is gonna ride in the seat until it at least has a harness. The dash is shiny, yes, but in the first pic you will see the blue shift boot at the bottom edge of the pic that my wife is sewing together. It's made of Alcantara. I got a pretty good deal on 3.5 yards of it so I am also covering the dash and new aluminum door cards in it to build a little bit of color and nice texture to the inside. Note the last pic shows the fender mirrors. I really like them. They are more of a modern fender mirror with a bit better view than the round ones.

Here are a few shots of the suspension. I plan on doing a sectioned strut, custom coilover setup after a few other stages are completed first. The new struts, springs, bushings will have to do for now. Note that I still have a few things I am doing before it's out on the road. You can see the rear wheels stacked up next to the original 195mm wide wheels.

After re-setting lash to fix the "sewing machine" emanations from the engine, I realized the cooling system was, uh, poorly modified to say the least. The PO had slanted the top of the radiator so that it was in front of the core support and cut the stock hood so it had a Ford GT40-style vent down into the engine bay. Since that would completely interfere with the upper radiator hose, they did an Autozone-special and hacked together a "U" shaped rad hose. Needless to say it didn't work, etc. Most of the engine had stuff like that, even though the engine had been rebuilt with head studs and decent bearings, etc. the rest of the engine bay was poorly maintained. I basically pulled everything and started over. I bought a ZXT powerplant and swiped the turbo oilpan, valvecover and manifold from it. (the rest of the engine sits for now in case I go with a built L28 instead of a VH45DE or LSX) I cut all extraneous stuff from the intake manifold, ported for a 240SX throttle (note the LACK of a spacer), coated it, etc. I built my own Megasquirt II and used BRAAP's old EDIS crank trigger brackets and GM 1-wire alternator relocation brackets. I built my own 3" aluminum pipes, bought an ebay 24"x12"x4" intercooler, Holset, etc. I used Mitsubishi Evolution injectors, which have a 560 cc/min. flow rate and a pretty fine mist (four holes in the tip). Basically here's what it has at the moment: ECU: Megasquirt-II V3.0, EDIS-6 with passenger side adjustable sensor mount, Deleted Dizzy ELECTRICAL: Completely rewired chassis and engine harnesses with new fusebox and toggle switch gear, GM 1-wire alternator, 4 gauge battery wires from rear-mounted Odyssey PC-680 battery and billet battery hold-down FUEL: Palnet Fuel Rail, Evo 560 cc injectors, Aeromotive FPR, fuel lines patched into stock lines at the firewall, ZXT fuel pump ENGINE: N42/N47 rebuilt by PO with ARP head studs, ZXT exhaust manifold and simplified intake manifold EXHAUST: Self-made 3" mandrel-bent 304SS piping TIG'd with v-bands, flex section, all-stainless Borla XR-1 muffler, stainless hangars, etc. It connects to the Holset turbo through a 4" v-band which is tapered to 3". TRANS: Late model 5-speed with ACT clutch and lighter flywheel SUSPENSION: Tokico springs/struts, Energy Suspension master bush kit, POR-15'd suspension bits, new wheel bearings front and rear, new spindle pins, Rota RB 17"x9"/9.5" staggered wheels (-13 and -19 offset) with 255/40-17 and 275/40-17 BF Goodrich gForce Sport tires BRAKES: Toyota 4x4 non-vented fronts and 240SX rear calipers with MM brackets, braided lines, new pads/rotors (just Autozone Gold stuff) TURBO: Holset HE351 with cut and re-welded wastegate bracket, HKS adjustable wastegate for an SR20, ported wastegate, TiAL BOV, 3" aluminum pipes and silicon couplers, ebay 24"x12"x4" intercooler INTERIOR: Mostly stripped with Jeg's 8-point, aluminum dash (weighs 3.8 lbs), Autometer gauge set, Kirkey aluminum seat and seat brackets, g-force 5-point harness EXTERIOR: BRE carbon spoiler, carbon hood with 1/4 turn clips at four corners, tinted headlight covers, Xenon urethane front lip, shaved rear end, shaved front bumper

Well, I've been working on it for quite a bit. Plenty of stuff to fix first (and still ongoing, of course), but I've made some progress so I figured I would post a "starting" point. It's a 1977 Datsun I bought from someone with most of the cosmetic stuff already stripped. The paint job is bad, the rust repair wasn't the best, etc. I am going through the mechanical stuff first. It had blown shocks, loose lifters, terrible cooling system, every rubber line under the hook leaked if you touched it (literally), the wiring was so old and worn through that half the amperage was flowing straight from positive to the negative cables (or through the frame), AFM was wet and rusted stuck, rear drum cylinders were both blown and leaking brake fluid into the drums, etc. The good thing is the body wasn't hideous (so far after extensive peeking around). It has rusted floorpans in a 6" diameter hole, the frame rails have a few spots, a few spots on the doglegs, etc. but it's not falling apart at least. It had no dash (just the frame underneath) with aftermarket "cut to fit" carpet (no insulation) installed using essentially self-tapping screws. Externally, the fenders are bad (already have one Victoria British fender and going to buy the other). Other than the carbon hood and spoiler it is as-is externally. I had seen an S30 once a long time ago and never knew what it was. I must have seen it when I was busy during my years owning a speed shop and acting as tuner. I always thought they were gorgeous. When I ran across this one, I had no intentions of buying another project car. I had just gotten married a year before and was just putting around the 'for-sale' threads to see what people had been up to. I ran across this one and realized what it was. I pointed it out to my wife in passing and she practically approved purchase on the spot. I was a bit surprised. I've owned lots of cars in the 8 years I've known her and she rarely "approved" of a car. She didn't like the '95 DSM, '03 WRX, 03 EVO, '06 350Z TT, '87 Mustang, '08 Mustang, etc. All for one reason or another. The only one she liked was a '95 Supra TT. She loved this one from the day she saw it, so I hurriedly started absorbing info on HybridZ. After showing some images of other modded/restored S30's she thought it was one of the most beautiful cars on the road (and she can talk car mechanics/tuning and identify cars as well as the average car enthusiast) so we went to look at it and we ended up buying it.

Is that three-pin mounting design with spacers going to cause interference with the EDIS signal?

Am I wrong or did the "features list" for MS2-Extra indicate that they don't have closed-loop O2 control on it?

IMHO, you should worry about getting EDIS working first; completely aside from the megasquirt or the wideband. It's easy enough to get it sorted and then watch the plugs firing while you turn the engine over. Then get EDIS and MS talking and working. This is pretty straightforward and unless you have wiring/interference issues it should go smoothly. Only then do you worry about the wideband. It's only a sensor and your engine can run perfectly well without it at all. At that point you can deal with the wideband without having other issues impeding your diagnosis. The first check on it should be watching it work "standalone" on a running car.

Punctuation for the win, my friend. Please post how you solved issues as well to help the next guy, etc.

Hmm, are you referring to the KA24DE motor? Maybe look up some S13/S14/S15 forums and see if they've done it natively with a Megasquirt.

When, precisely, is it hitting 75, though?

I'm using the oft-quoted 275/40-17's for the rear and 255/40-17 in the front. I went with g-Force sport tires which seem to be pretty decent without much 'all-weather' consideration for a pretty economical "sport" tire. They had decent reviews. I didn't want anything super soft since I will indeed spend a lot of time on the street getting things worked out. Likewise, it won't get a lot of miles until next year; I'd say. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=g-Force+Sport They could probably be another 10 or 20mm wider in the rear without interference with factory suspension. I'd say 275 gives pretty straight sidewalls. 285 would probably give a bit fuller look. The front could go wider since the closest contact point is actually the little ridge on the inner lip where clip-on balancing weights would have been installed. It comes close to the OE-style spring perch. I can fit just a bit more than my pinky between the two. Ages ago I was trained to use the mounting equipment (except the road force variance machine which wasn't around at the time) and it looked pretty straightforward to me; it's just that your typical tire guy doesn't have a lot of sport-specific experience; thus the advisement for everyone to warn their shop of choice. Yeah it's tough, but like you said, they aren't exactly 'pedestrian' tires, either.