WizardBlack

Well, buttescotch is yellow with a touch of red to reach orange and then a tiny touch of black to dirty it up a smidge.

I take it that, unlike double wishbone suspension, the Z wants to camber out once you have lowered it a bit? Mine is cambered out a bit and has susbstantial toe out. I have ALL ES poly bushings (LCA, TC rod, etc.) with the typical tokico strut/spring setup on my 280Z.

I dunno. I am beginning to suspect them because this is getting retarded. I just recall helping a friend bleed his EVO trackside with speed bleeders and it was ridiculously quick.

Any updates? How's the final design look?

The orange one is way better of a "new take" on the old car without taking styling cues from MOPAR, Audi and the skyline GTR.

You have different calipers than I do. Mine has the bleeder at a different point. It's already ALMOST at the top. You described the pedal pressure very well. I'm betting I just need that 15/16" MC now. I hate to swap just for a 1/16" bigger MC, though. Doesn't seem like it'd be that much. By Toyo I meant Toyota 4x4 brakes. I dunno the "brand" stamped on it, but it's the S12+8 non-vented calipers.

Hmm, yeah I guess so. I'd think that having all stainless braided lines would eliminate a lot of the "takeup". My stock STi has about 1.25 inches of takeup before it gets hard (with rubber lines). The Datsun has 1.5 inches of takeup but it does get harder when it "hits". I now feel like I could literally stand on the pedal whereas before it'd practically hit the floor if you really pressed hard on it. Maybe I just need a bigger MC to eliminate some of the takeup, then. As I side note, I didn't point out that I used a vac bleeder to get the last bit out of the rear brakes.

Did you empty your Sent Box as well?

Someone (240 Hoke? I dunno, been surfing WAY too much to recall who) used a steering shaft box from a Nissan truck. You run the shaft right along the frame and into the box. It basically acts like a 180* box so you can shoot past the headers and then down to the steering rack from the front side.

LUK how it goes...

There is a line of product which will dye carpet and soft surfaces (like the ceiling stuff is) to a particular color. You could probably get a few different colors and blend them to get a good match.

Most peeps just want the cool look. Carbon "style" is close enough for them. OTOH, if you have a race car and every ounce counts...

Anything sold on ebay with "JDM style" in the description is probably not worth relying on to save your life. Get some G-Force harnesses, Schroth, Sparco, etc. or if you must, Takata, to have some proper 3" belts on you.

I thought the rule of thumb was three teeth in contact with the metal?

Sticky that puppy. That's too good to let fall into the sea of threads.

I removed the upper bolts holding the 240SX rear calipers in place, pivoted them forward so the bleeder fitting was pointed straight up. Now I have a brake pedal that finally gets hard after pressing it in about 1.5". I'd say it's about like an OEM EVO/STi pedal (with rubber brake lines). It does ramp up in pressure from "off the pedal" up to that point, but it's not linear; it moves fairly easy until it hits that spot. I wonder if that might be the smaller MC? Or do I still have some air in it somewhere?

So,... are you hinting around trying to sell it for your dealership buddy?

You can change the heads, you can change the intake (and most do), but it's not always so easy to change to roller lifters. Hang in there for an HO motor IMHO.

I thought a particular individual sold them on here, but it seems that the signature with links and whatnot is no longer there. Could they please PM me a cost for a universal setup (box, univ. harness, software)? I have another "fuel efficiency" project I need it for.

Nope, just when it is halfway through it's response to the change in signal from the sensor. Halfway through it's response to the tooth doesn't have anything to do with halfway across the tooth. It doesn't know when it's at halfway across the tooth. That's just a sensitivity thing (how much of the tooth has to be passed in front of the sensor before it recognizes it) and if you look at BRAAP's sticky with high speed images you can get an idea of where it's triggering at.

Be careful. I know BMW has a bit of an engineering arrogance problem. For example, if it takes x thickness for something to hold without failing, they will use 1.05x instead of 1.6x like most cars are built. Some of their engines are rather like glass if you mess with them much. Sure, they can really engineer an engine for performance, but not all of them put up with "tinkering".

I'm sure Tony knows the difference between a RRFPR and a plain jane 1:1 like the Aeromotive models, etc. Definitely get your A/F ratio out of the tens. That'll really slow you down. Likewise, get the leaks around the injectors fixed or you'll have tune/spool issues as well. For leak testing, here is what I do. Find a piece of pipe that fits into the coupler hooked up to the inlet of your turbo. Weld a plate across one end of it to seal it off. Drill a hole in the plate and weld a compressed air fitting onto it that fits your air system. Hook up a REGULATED compressed air line that has been turned down to zero. Slowly turn it up to about 1.5X your estimated highest boost pressure. You want to go higher than your boost pressure to try to help simulate heat on the couplers and the surge of force as the turbo spools. Leave the throttle alone. Don't install any blockoff plates, etc. You'll notice a bit of hissing if there's any overlap in the cams and you hit the right spot in the timing. Otherwise, move your ear around everywhere really close to the engine and piping, etc. This should root out any leaks. Be ready; if the couplers aren't tight enough, they will blow off and when they do, it's pretty @$#@ loud.

IIRC I have four c-clips in the MM kit.

Looks like we're taking a ride to the shed?

Pressurize it without the blockoff plate.