WizardBlack

Is the Melling ~$100 pump (P/N M-111) still the best option for us out there? Anyone wanna chime in after some more time on the pump, etc.? My '77 N-42/N-47 car with -4AN fed Holset runs about 4 psi at hot idle. Not going anywhere with it until I fix that (obviously). Pinching off the Push-Lok oil feed line brings it up to about 9~10 psi.

It depends. If you get a good long spray on it, it will probably leave the engine bay for you (in pieces). Otherwise, you will have to pull it yourself.

Looks like a pretty decent site. They are selling mostly JWT (jimwolftech) parts for the "specialized" stuff, though.

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/

Not sure I'd say that, but it all depends on your priorities, I suppose. After having tinkered with quite a few vastly different cars, I'd prefer solid. Especially on something as easy as the L-series to adjust. But then, silent is very low on my list of priorities.

I know this is on a different car, but my '03 Mitsubishi Evo which has 9.8'ish stock lift cams and 7k stock rev limit was running around with 12.5 mm cams and they held fine until about 9,500~10k. They all blew their seals out.

Gotcha. No worries. 5&6 it is, then.

I'll find out. Discount Tire said that worst case it'd vibrate a tad. He did re-index the rubber on the rim to get it down to a reasonable road force variance. He said it "wasn't bad". I suspect the sheet size of the wheels/tires is more than he is used to and that was contributing. I was lucky in that they were all drooling over the concept it was going on a Z and I hung out and chatted with 'em. You'd be amazed what a bit 'o that will do. Whatever you do, however, be sure to tell the guy mounting the rubber to use plenty of lube and have a second guy standing there to help coax it onto the rim.

There are several 'rolls' of gasket material you can get at auto parts stores. Just trace it out and use a hole-punch for the bolt holes. Make sure you don't buy the cork. Other than that, at my local stores there is a black material and a green. I've used both with no problem. EDIT: Not sure exactly which gasket you are referring to, now that I think about it. What's it made of?

Bottom line, when you are chasing cars around a track and one or both inside tires are off the ground in a corner you can see why adding downforce to the inside half of the car would be helpful. I don't think that wing was developed for race teams and formal racing as it would no doubt be illegal so I doubt they've gone so far as to consider getting the effective aero to just one side as much as possible. It's more for the autox crowd and anyone that thinks it would benefit them and therefore purchase it.

When I bought my Dynapack AWD dyno back about 4 yrs ago they said the same thing.

Is it not simply the SHEET METAL that is different? Same hardware...

Brake boosters are available through AutoZone and the like. I just checked within the last 2 days. It's $160, however.

Got more pics?

Indeed, you'd need something with a substantial cutout for the axles.

What's your fabbing/welding skills like?

Ditto. Bastards.... Another one that'll probably never come back.

I'd check with burnsstainless. I dunno if they have it on their website, but in their catalog they have a custom header setup so you can change the length and tune it. Something about using a grease pencil down the side of the primaries and collector. Where the grease converges from melted to not melted is the "proper point" for a collector. They make some pretty high end V8 headers.

The filter is cheap and it's WAY too small for a turbo.

Yup. Ultimately it's only good for a before/after comparison in similar conditions on the same dyno. Absolute "crank hp" estimations are pointless except for bragging rights. Run it on the track or strip; that's the real measurement of performance.

Maybe not from certain aspects, but from the aspect of heat soaking they sure do. I think we're all in agreement that different engine designs have different needs. I've messed with enough different cars and engine types to know to pick out what the nominal timing setup is for each car as a basis to start tuning. Doritos (rotary) like 10.0:1 whereas Mitsubishi 4G63 likes 12.8:1 or leaner on pump gas. IMHO EGT works as a great tool on a factory EFI'd car. When the engine detects knock (before you can hear it) it will pull some timing and make EGT's higher. This tells you right away the engine is getting heat soaked or there is something wrong, etc. On a standalone car it can 'sorta' give you a feel for what kinda timing the engine likes, but it has to be used in a meaningful comparison against other similar setups on the same engine.

Yep, works very well.

Oil change specified in barrels instead of quarts... So... it's a quad sequential turbo system with two different sizes?

LOL if one of those was N/A you could probably put it next to the driver in the tunnel.

LOL that is exactly what I was envisioning.