WizardBlack

Yep, I follow. I apologize for misleading about the turbo and heater stuff. I just wanted to stress that my cooling system is about as simplified as you can get. It sounds like a decent plan with 4/5/6. What of blocking the thermostat housing off altogether and running, say -4 AN lines from 1/2/3 and -6 AN lines from 4/5/6? Route them together in a remote t-stat housing, etc.? Is this to say that, due to the recent results from the bypass lines, many think that the theory of poor casting flaws, etc. doesn't contribute that much to the issue?

Hmm, quite interesting. I guess they're kinda bending the definition of torque to yield, then. I guess every manufacturer is different.

Anyways.... let us know how it goes.

I spoke with Discount Tire and they have dealt with Rota before. They just say the wheel mounting machine bent the wheel which is not possible. Likewise for shipping damage. It was shipped this way. You cannot see it with a still image, but when you spin the wheel you can see that the machined lip has a spot that doesn't "fall in line" (or a high spot, etc.) with the rest. I'll give it a shot with Kim, but even IF they admit to a flaw and IF they would replace it, am I really going to wait another X months for a replacement? I would have to dismount the wheel and ship it back and wait.. and wait...

Anyone else have their wheels balanced on a Road Force Variance machine and note that they had a "warped" machined lip? I had one of the 9.5" wheels that way. The tech came and got me to show what it was like. There's no way they could have been bent like that since the distortion goes all the way to the ring the spokes are attached to. The boxes looked pristine. They did what they could with it but it may vibrate...

Just a guess, but... The included c-clips stop it from sliding off the end and when they are assembled they can't slide "in". I have four CV shafts and Ross's entire kit sitting in my shop waiting to be installed, too.

Most muffler shops use a service that delivers, etc. and probably doesn't sell to the public. There's about 93613523 sites on the net to buy exhaust stuff from. Try wolf aircraft, burns stainless, etc.

Hmm, manually push the flap door on the AFM open a bit by hand while someone tries to crank it. You have the EFI bible, no? EDIT: May want to switch to another sub-forum where the engine guys will be more likely to see it.

General rule of thumb is: larger the turbo, the more vacuum you will have while cruising under load. The turbo isn't working as hard to feed the ~100 hp it takes to keep your car at 80 mph, etc.

Wow lots of misinformation on this one. Lag - Time to build boost when it is floored. Has nothing to do with how low in the rpms it will build boost. You can rev up to 5000 rpms and then floor it and measure lag. Boost Threshold - Get out on the road at 1000 rpms in top gear and floor it. When it builds "x" boost, that rpm number is the boost threshold for that boost level. It's the minimum rpms needed for the turbo to build that boost. A lot of people like to quote boost threshold for 1 bar of boost in 4th gear, etc. Compressor Surge - The engine can feed the thermodynamic energy to the turbo to make "X" amount of boost, but the turbo itself doesn't like to make boost at that low of shaft speed (for the turbo). Backspin - Lack of a pressure relief device (BOV, BPV, etc.) or a poorly configured one wherein when the car has been boosting and the throttle is shut, the pressurized air hits the throttle plate and flows in reverse back to the compressor where it physically stops the spinning of the turbo and forces it to spin backwards as the pressurized air tries to escape. This doesn't always get so bad as to spin the turbo backwards (it can just slow it down) but any way you look at it, it's very hard on the turbo and increases respool time (lag). A lot of kids think this sound is cool and incorrectly tighten their aftermarket BOV too tight until it isn't opening and backspin results.

9.3:1 isn't too much for 11 psi. The mitsubishi evo is 9.0:1 and runs 21 psi from the factory on american premium. He has new zealand 95 octane. A LOT of it depends on your specific engine and how well the combustion chamber is designed. You may need to find some beemer forums where they are familiar with that motor to help you out on that one. They're right, though, 2500~6500 is tricky to attain; maybe if you drop 1krpm off the bottom end of the band. If the heads flow worth anything you won't need 11 pounds to get 350 at the crank, however. EDIT: Pay close attention to the turbo you linked. It's a chinese unit. Use images on ebay listings to help you differentiate from genuine turbos (usually the compressor housing has letters/numbers cast into them on real ones) and absolutely avoid the chinese turbos like the plague. How cheap will it be when it grenades and drops little bits of metal into your intake manifold and oil pan?

I don't know of any TTY bolts that don't yield (ie., plastic deformation) when you torque them to spec. On a side note, I know some manufacturers put their TTY numbers so close to the limit that sometimes you will do nothing wrong and they still go past peak and have to be replaced immediately. EDIT: BTW, gorgeous car. I love the color.

So for someone with all the heater core stuff removed and plugged and running a non-water cooled turbo on an EFI car, the #5 and #6 taps can be routed directly to the bottom of the thermostat housing? EDIT: Another comment/question here. Based on a previous poster's hand-drawn image of the various routes the coolant can take, it seems that as soon as the coolant is pushed in to the block, it has about seven routes it can take. It can immediately go up through the head gasket to the head and out of the thermostat housing, or it can flow through the motor and between any two cylinders and then up through to the head and then back forward to the thermostat housing, etc. Would it not make sense in this parallel flow scheme (if you thought of it like a parallel electrical circuit) that the longest path (namely cylinders 5 and 6) would get the least amount of coolant because they have the longest path? Additionally, 5 is hotter than 6 because 6 gets more air cooling for being on the end of the engine whereas 5 is more insulated with another cylinder on each side of it? That would also explain why simply adding an additional exit point at 5 and at 6 effectively shortens the route for these two to help them pick up more coolant flow.

Might ye be troubled to update the appropriate Megasquirt Map Sticky with your latest maps? Particularly timing...

I believe those eyelets just slip over the ends of the sway bar and the other end of the brackets clamp to a control arm. The "loose" eyelets that jmortensen posted are there just to stop the ARB from sliding out of the eyelets on the brackets. That's how they get "infinite" adjustability. Another method I have seen is where the ARB bolts directly to the control arm (or other moving suspension piece) and they technically don't need any brackets, etc. OP: several of the posters on this sub-topic are amazing fabricators (jmort is one of 'em) and if you search their names under this sub-topic you will wind up with several different methods of execution that do not feature poly/rubber.

The pedal started to feel more and more squishy as soon as I pressed the brake pedal after cracking the first front caliper to be bled. As in, on the first downstroke of the pedal I knew something was wrong because it went too far and too fast. In other words, they got nice and hard (though not quite Evo-like) after first bleeding both circuits of the MC and then doing both of the rears and it went downhill within a few pumps on the first front caliper. For the record, you bleed in this order: MC rear reservoir, MC front reservoir, LR, RR, RF, LF, no? (I will note here that while normally bleeders and speed bleeders just barely need "cracked" to bleed them, I found that the front speed bleeders had to be turned a tad more (a total of probably 45 degrees from tight) to actually get them to start bleeding) While watching the hose connected to the front caliper, the first push of the pedal ejected a normal amount of fluid but after that first push (which is, again, also when it started to get really squishy) it would barely dribble out even with some rather violent/hard jabs of the brake pedal. Maybe I just need to go back to standard bleeders and find a cohort? EDIT: It sounds like I have the front bleeder too loose and it's sucking air in on the upstroke, doesn't it? That'd explain the first massive gush and overly easy pedal pressure on the first pump (fitting too loose) and the consequential squishiness only getting worse (constantly drawing more air in).

I changed the MC and booster not long ago, and I was aware of the reaction disc issue at the time, but I am not sure if I recall seeing it per se. From what angle would you see it, etc.? I remember reading about it was was a tad confusing on how you'd see it or what it attaches to. (I'll do some searching again, too. It's been a while) I also made sure to adjust the pushrod on the MC to the same length as the old one as per a set of vernier calipers (unless, of course, the old MC rod was off... heh).

I wonder if I've not got something similar. I had a rubber mallet out to tap around the calipers. It seemed like when I crack the speed bleeder and push the pedal down the first time it gushes out. After that, I only get a dribble which clearly isn't enough. Maybe I need to pull em off and do the jiggle shake. As a side note, I went back and rebled the master cylinder (rear reservoir first, then front) (didn't notice any bubbles) and then rebled the brakes. The pedal seemed stiff like a newer car (fairly short travel then it mostly stops and won't drop further without a LOT of pedal force) after doing the rear calipers. As soon as I started to bleed the fronts they got squishy again. It seems like the normal brake pressure to decelerate in traffic would put the pedal just about on the floor; like it has a lot of travel and is greatly overpowered. The reason I say overpowered is that I had someone spin the front rotors and soon as I press the pedal, they stop. Even though I probably don't have 5~10 pounds of force on the brake pedal and it hasn't travelled but one inch yet. Are the brakes just like that on the datsun? I want the pedal to drop about 1.5" inches or so when I press the brakes pretty firm and then travel maybe another .5~1" before wheel lockup like an Mitsu Evo 8 would do (with braided lines) or STi, etc. Am I gonna need a different MC design, etc. or do some of you have that type of brake performance? Do I still have wretched air in there somewhere?

I think they've covered the viable options. Sounds like you have it under control anyways. Regarding your build, how do you like the isky cam? Did it make a difference?

moar info

LOL good story.

You'd need dowels or some way to center or mark the alignment of the intake manifold to avoid ending up with a step, too. The stock setup leaves a lot of alignment slop.

Negatory. There is too much flex in the wrench. It softens the blow. Just like the special socket (for torqueing lug nuts) you can put on your impact gun to reduce 2XX pounds of torque down to ~85 or whatever that socket is set up for. Same thing goes for extensions; even 1/2" chromed socket extensions (and chromed sockets themselves) will appreciably reduce effective torque unless they are impact parts. I've had crank pulley bolts that wouldn't come off with a 1/2" impact gun, 3" extension and short socket. I would try and try. Finally, realizing I was getting too much flex, I'd remove the extension (just there for convenience) and without changing air pressure or torque setting it would zip off immediately.

Did you change the fuel filter? You didn't say for sure.

Road tune it first for sure. Get a good feel for everything and get it fairly even on A/F ratios before you go paying $100+ per hour to learn some tuning when you should be dialing the engine in. Most dyno tuners that aren't familiar with your engine and your engine management are going to end up costing you some time/money to do the same thing. You will be surprised how well you can "feel" how it's behaving on repeated road pulls and end up getting within a decent margin. I wouldnt consider dyno tuning until you have it as far as you can on the street. Especially now that they gave you some L28-specific targets to shoot for. On turbo, it really varies by the engine (and the wideband to a tenth or two) what the best AFR is. I am surprised that best power is achieved at 12.0~12.5:1. That's rather lean for a turbo car, but it's obviously working. Generally some engine designs like richer fuel and more timing (boxer engines that I know of) and some like lean and not much timing (mitsubishi evolution, etc.). If you back off on both (rich and retarded) you will get the turbine hot like jeffp said. If the timing is decent for the motor, you can dial it so rich that you get spark blowout with heating the turbine up excessively. EGT's are handy to have as another tuning tool. (and diagnostic tool after it's tuned) Overall, be wary of running your pulls too close together on the dyno or your engine won't pull as much air as it should and run rich (like they said). Once you tune the richness out, you will end up lean when you get it back on the road. Most dynos cheap out on fans which causes a lot of that. Even though you have air temp and coolant temp compensations, it still doesn't account for everything that happens to an engine sitting stationary and running pull after pull without some cooldown and proper cooling. I used to run a shop and we had a 4-wheel dynapack. For "quick" tune jobs I could usually get a pull in every 2~3 minutes (on a fairly unstressed setup) but if it dragged out I would stretch that out further. I had a very good fan collection, however. Watch your baseline coolant and air temp numbers in megasquirt to get an idea.