WizardBlack

You are spot on. If you search around on the AEM EMS forums, you will find that there are other suppliers that sell the same boost control solenoid. In fact, last I checked, people found industrial supply catalogues that had essentially the same part in them. The solenoid is used for industrial clamps/jigs/etc that require electronically activated pneumatics. That PFC kit is expensive because it is from Japan and rare; that's all. Caveat Emptor.

Yeah, most high pressure pumps cannot draw to themselves worth a darn. Most that I am aware of. The factory EFI pump is external and below the fuel level. I'd just use that setup just as it is for a basic install. Otherwise, install an internal pump (like the GSS-342), etc. If I were to go to the trouble of using a surge tanked system on my Z when I get to it, I would probably get a cell that holds a Walbro inside feeding a ~0.5 Gallon surge tank with an 040 pump off of that. If I got suicidal and felt I wanted to build enough power to need two 040's it's easy enough to add another.

Call ARP; their tech line knows their stuff.

All those are is a high wattage resistor pack built to tolerate heat. There are probably countless other packs that work just as well; as long as the resistance is the same; which they typically are. Even the original Z EFI ballast looks darn near the same. I would not be surprised at all if it plugged right in and worked. Honda ones look the same. Mitsu ones look the same.

I have not built a surge tanked fuel system for the Z, but I have for Evo's/STi's nigh on 700 whp. I used a Walbro in-tank 255 Lph pump for the lifter. It doesn't matter since it is simply flowing really high numbers due to it running essentially open discharge (no backpressure) and returning back to the tank. Any decent EFI pump (designed for high pressure) should work just fine and last forever. A stock replacement Z EFI pump is what I would recommend for a cost effective solution, or an external Walbro for a "no worries" solution. In other words, EFI pumps designed to push against 3~4 bar can easily just gush with no resistance.

The reason some of us (cannot say what percentage or if it's a majority) don't do that is that some Americans (myself included) have heard multiple horror stories of importers selling Japanese parts out of Canada and shipping across the border. Multiple times, I have heard where stuff is completely stuffed (junk, useless) and it's obvious the seller knew it. There is absolutely no reciprocity since they are selling from another country. When I did my research on buyers, etc., I saw many Canadian powertrain listings, but I was leery to buy one. I ended up buying from someone through HZ and I am happy. (Now if I could just finish the install)

You have PM, sir.

Yes, new bolts. Yes, cut that portion off. However, those are separate pieces from the main reinforcement hoop. Just grind the stitch welds (on the fore and aft sides) and drill out the spot welds (some above the bolt flange and some below) and they will pop off. Clean the area up really good so you can see where the welds are. I have to notch a bit on the reinforcement hoop for the speed sensor to bolt in and have some clearance as well.

Yeah, I was gonna say, exhaust to inlet and vice versa.

BCU? Is that the chassis (body) control unit?

Yes, I know, but I would still humbly disagree. I have tuned many low-z cars as well without knowing the minimum pulsewidth. I don't have the software, anymore. I'll have to see if I can snag it again. It should be in stickies on the aempower forum, however.

Fixed...

Spam much?

They aren't in a spreadsheet form, but rather in each individual basemap. Last I checked, you D/L the software and, as an option, D/L all the basemaps. You have to open each one and look at the settings. However, getting the exact minimum injector pulsewidth is largely irrelevant if you already have a tuned car in all but the most basic standalones (of which Megasquirt is not) or if you have a horribly large injector set. I have personally set up 1200 cc injectors on a 2L 4cyl without having the exact pulsewidth. It simply helps when crafting a rough map when first setting a car up.

I already told you to download the AEM EMS software and it will have the correct settings for those injectors in it. Ask the fellows on the aempower.com forums.

I built my own 3.0 and used custom Magnecor wires. I've had zero resets from day 1.

M3 friend is wrong. They are nice, but one of the favourite cars to stomp, just because of some of the drivers have that 'nose in the air attitude'. It also depends on which year of M3 he has. Has he done any work? How heavy is your car? You should have a substantial weight advantage. HX35 would be a better choice, but an HX35/40 hybrid (IMHO) would be even better. You also have to be aware of which hotside you have, as the Holsets come with a large variety of hotsides. The Holsets are individually balanced, so you can take the compressor wheel and compressor cover from an HX40 and bolt it right on without any balancing or indexing. Search youtube for an RB25 HX35/40 spool level example. I have a 35 but intend to eventually get a hybrid when I get EMS figured out. On one of the threads (I think it was on HZ), I posted an application chart for Holsets. I think it was a sticky.

They have all the info needed for the mounts, AFAIK. I doubt it will take long to sell you a mount kit. I have not heard anything on a McKinney oil pan.

That's easily answered with SAU thread perusal. They have stickies for dyno numbers including setup info. 400 whp or 400 crank hp? Straight HX40 is going to be laggy.

Meh, a megasquirt (or equivalent) should go on either one and they'll both run boost just fine.

To quote the 'king: But that's more like, an opinion.... I've had a 10,000 rpm 450+ whp pump gas Evo. I wouldn't mind having that puppy in my Datsun...

I will make an effort to get you some dimensions and images today.

If it's flow related, it would not. If it's function related, then it might.

I took a TIAL WG apart before to Jet Hot 2000 the hot side of it and I accidentally pinched a part of the diaphragm between the two halves. It would partially hold boost, but would creep inconsistently. I also vote to take it apart and carefully inspect the diaphragm for any creases or pinches that should not be there. On the WG, the EBC hooks to the lower port and the upper is left open to atmo.

Still here.