WizardBlack

Do they make it sit higher, then? Interesting website, but the pics weren't really detailed.

Maybe so. The supras do that as well. To the OP, just try wiring it precisely as he listed it. That is the de facto aftermarket method of fuel pump control for imports.

There was a comment about the Autometer tachs with an RB. They posted a diagram of a similar setup, but used a much lower resistance for the pullup. It's in one of the stickies. You has teh search? Let us know.

Clearly a rear/mid sump. The engine came with a front sump and it's only 3/8" clearance from the front end of the girdle to the power steering rack without the pan on there. I mounted it without the pan on to get an idea how I would need to make the new pan.

I got McKinney mounts for my RB25 powertrain in my 280Z. Something is a bit odd. I mounted the powertrain with the oil pan off to see what kind of clearances I was going to have for the oil pan. With no pan on, my main girdle is ~3/8" from the steering rack. Do you guys typically get them that close and make the front of your oil pan that close to the girdle? I am not sure I got the right mount set as the funky 280z trans mount isn't even close to fitting. No way, no how (yes, I know how to orient it, etc.)

You need an upgraded turbo. You are way low on both available boost and flow of the boost you are getting by sticking with the stock turbo. Look at a Holset, etc. The holsets with a v-band outlet are probably easier to fab a downpipe for, anyways.

IIRC, the injectors are 370 cc. Oil pan requirements depend on what you want to do with the car. Road racing is probably the hardest on pan requirements. Check the Aussie forums for whp capabilities.

The oil pump design isn't the best, either. Power limits are definitely affected by tuning. The further you go, the narrower your margin is going to be. At a certain point, it's just a matter of time. Most engines don't have concrete and very precise information on this. There are merely examples of when one blew or one that's able to put some numbers down on a dyno and still stay together (for some period of time). Beyond that, it's mostly a crapshoot.

Boys, we've been used.

Dynos are for comparative (ie., pre/post changes) purposes only.

I agree with the others, the WG can't be doing it. If it creeps up to 14 psi, for example, try setting the EBC to 14 and see if it creeps anymore. Profec B's are pretty darn solid, however. Is it a spec 1 or spec 2? IIRC, the spec 1 (at least) has a balance knob that can mess things up a bit.

Very carefully describe what fuel components you changed and how you routed them, please. Do you have pressurized fuel in the rail? Are you sure your lines are not reversed? Did you change computers? Hot side on the injectors doesn't mean you have the ECU providing a signal.

Scoobies sound wicked with high compression N/A heads on them, too. One of my top 5 favourite sounding engines.

Yup. QFT = Quoted For Truth.

Sorry, what WG and BC exactly?

QFT! If you don't understand or believe this, watch videos (or bum a ride from a buddy) with a big turbo STi. The close ratio 6-speed trans results in you spooling half of the time your are accelerating and then you have to shift again. Too close makes you have to spool the turbo more.

They are cool for a while, but I kinda got tired of the first one I did about 2 weeks later. That was a DD, though. Pre-IC air temps might give you a good clue if you're maxing it out, but I seriously doubt it. Your BC should not be doing that, it should only delay spool, not make it creep. Check your vac lines; anything other than silicone or high grade stuff can eventually fail; usually right where it slides onto a barb. Tony, surely 'the act' wasn't directly correlated to the costs, now was it?

lol!

Who said Eagle rods weren't strong? Do you think they hold 1/3 of the torque that rods costing 3X their price could?

Fab it.

OK, gotcha. So adding some capacity, keeping it cool and ensuring good pressure are the things to go after.

In your position, I'd do the black Autometers. They are so nice...

Alright, whatcha got on the wings and trap doors. I am resolved to get this done right the first time. I am interested in increased capacity and trap doors.

Hey, thanks for taking the time to post your thoughts on the subject. The particular Amsoil kit I was looking at combines a standard oil relocation with the bypass kit into one filter block, so all oil goes through the system and won't let any oil bypass the entire oiling system and just dump into the oil pan like the single kit. It comes with a spin-on oil filter adapter to screw onto the block, etc. The only concern I noted is that the main oil filter spot on the amsoil filter block has a very mild check valve in it's feed circuit to provide a little bit of backpressure so that it will actually push some oil through the bypass filter (which requires a little oomph to get through, obviously). I would suspect that this will raise the effort of the oil pump a little bit, but otherwise it would hardly push any oil whatsoever through the bypass filter. Here is a link to the model I picked up for basically free. It's BMK-23. Page two shows the filter block. I wasn't aware of the issues with oil coolers and the concept of overcooling the oil. Very good to know. Likewise, the accusump's downsides (or wasted efforts) from oversizing. I take it that if you want to do the basic setup with a ball valve you have to plumb the oil line into the cockpit?

Nobody? OK, I've been around long enough to know if a tech thread gets no answers that either 1) It's a dumb question and obvious 2) It's too vague and no one wants to bother trying to get explicit details out of the poster or 3) no one has any idea or anything to comment on it. I seriously doubt it's 3.