WizardBlack

Interesting idea, but I wouldn't put that on something that likes to turn lateral G's...

Well, he has it on now and I think he's headed for a little more than that, if you know what I mean. Phil, did they talk to you about what oil to use on the Isky cam?

You will have to make the frame rails flare out quite a bit. Otherwise you will cover your exhaust ports with the frame rails. Where's the turbo going??? It usually sits behind the engine... Noting some other comments; you can't really reduce the depth of the oil pan because the exhaust manifold sticks down just as far. Remember this is a boxer. Likewise, I am not sure if it would successfully sump the block if you made it much shallower. Most Subaru's are all the same in basic dimensions, so they are all going to have the same basic format.

Where's the 044?

To everyone considering one, just hang it under the car (if you have room) and isolate it with rubber standoffs. That'll help a bit.

I am interested in adding a few things to my RB to improve oil quality and life, etc. While I have read plenty on the oil pumps, the weakness of the stock and N1 gerotor design (it basically shatters; especially with some sustained high G/rpm and aggressive rev limiter action), but I don't have all the modifications to get into those, yet. Nor am I at the point to drop $1k+ on an oil pump. Nor do I think I'm at the point to modify the passenger side drain/air return from the head, etc. Anyways, I am looking at installing an Amsoil bypass filtration system. It drastically improves the wear/breakdown rate of the oil and cuts the average and maximum oil contaminant size. It also happens to add another quart and a half or so to the capacity. (obviously not in the sump, where it'd be best, but it is more) Commercial vehicles are getting way more life out of the oil and engine with it. Anyways, it calls for a remote oil filter block, etc. Likewise, I considered adding an oil cooler and thermostat while I am plumbing lines. I considered one of the reservoir tanks for assertive priming of the system and a pressure backup. Lastly, I considered an addition to the sump for better pickup coverage (without a doubt the most important). Now, with all of this, I know there will be a lot of oil plumbing. Capacity just with the additional bypass filter, the oil lines, the widened sump, oil cooler, etc. will go up substantially. So will the route the oil takes before it actually gets to the main galley. I would like to hear everyone's comments on the various mods, their efficacy, effects on pressure, flow and load of the oil pump, etc. Mark

Yeah, I figured, I just noticed he said 10ms (as if he was watching the actual calculated pulsewidth when cranking or something). That sounds high; particularly for bigger injectors.

EJ's are retarded light. I had an EJ25 shortblock sitting on a pallet for some time. When I needed to move it, I could lift it with one arm as long as I can get a good handhold on it.

Just on the other side of the fire wall you could eliminate the last rod piece and connect the cable directly to the pedal assy. That might simplify things. As far as brackets go, I think they look fine. You can always redo them later (after you get it running) and you see if there are any changes or tweaks you'll need to the design.

How's it coming along? Got any crisper pics of the throttle area?

I nabbed this sheet off of a DSM website thread. I had it in my images folder, so I thought I would toss it up. There are some pretty similar Holsets that no one considers using because no one knows they are almost the same. They go for cheap. Note that the WH1C has a wastegate actuator set for pump gas boost levels; assuming you have fuel, EMS, etc. and still has a reasonably sized turbine housing. The guys in the thread (including a vendor from a Diesel mod shop) said the H1C turbos use the exact same center section as the HX series. Only the housings are different and some are bolt-on versus v-band.

Excellent point. Hope everything is going well with the family!

Yup, big sucker, though. Vibrates and is kinda loud. If you can hear it, though, you simply haven't pressed the throttle hard enough.

Well, whoever said you wouldn't need to recalculate track for different wheels, anyways? Track isn't the only thing to bear in mind, too.

You boosted and it didn't go any leaner at full song, either? Or are you keeping outta that until the surge issue is resolved?

TH350 Congrats, btw!

Tires are not solid, correct? They shift laterally under load (obviously less with stiff, low profile stuff), but technically, that's the center of the contact patch and the center around which the tire might 'sway'. That'd make sense as the measurement point. As an aside, I have even heard of factory Mitsu Evo wheels flexing laterally enough (on the spokes) to rub the calipers with slicks and whatnot in roadrace settings.

I would not trust a Walbro for 500 HP. Get a Bosch 044. Fuel = Insurance when boost is involved.

That seems like a lot of fuel for the CLT enrichment. Are you sure you were getting into that 10ms range before? Try adding more like 50~75% more fuel. I have noticed a lot of basemaps from cars based out of very warm climates typically have nowhere near the right amount of fuel for cold start (too rich).

Do eeeet! That's the proper solution to your problem. You need either a lower flowing turbo or a higher flowing engine. Hmmmm. What to choose....

Jeebus. Post good audio, too.

Cool, let us know how it goes.

Why not use an original Datsun ballast pack? It does the same thing. Works on sequential injection, etc. Heck, even the Mitusbishi Evo's have something that looks exactly like 2/3'rds of a Datsun pack.

Even with a larger MAF, you are moving yourself around your ignition advance tables. You really need the Nistune to set everything back to a proper scale as per a factory car.

I should hopefully have an RB25 pan shortly to compare. I don't know if they are different to the RB20 or not.