WizardBlack

Nah, I just meant the fore/aft slope.

Perhaps having 3" piping and an even larger plenum leads one to think that tapering down and then back up (right before it should expand to distribute to the cylinders) might be a bad thing? I'm just thinking of fluid dynamics at WOT, etc. Obviously every manifold and IC pipe route is different.

Excellent point. Nice tool, by the way!

With the appropriate alterations, a ford focus will pull on a corvette. The L is not a focus compared to the SR, however. Start with an L28ET (and not an L24) and save yourself a ton of money.

OK, thanks for the great insight. I presume in the proper orientation, the newly fabricated oil pan should have little to no lateral slant to it?

Yeah I need to get you some info. I may make a profile shape of the trans tunnel and floor pan cross section (right at the trans mount studs) to send to you as well.

Ah, OK. That will definitely help. Thank you! I take it you don't have the other side shimmed at all, then?

It doesn't actually hit the rack, but it's about 3/8" diagonal distance from it. I don't have the replacement trans mount from McKinney yet to properly set the rear end of the powertrain, though. That will obviously move it about. Once I get that in, the engine mounts will be shimmed to try to get an appropriate pinion angle and offset. Nice website by the way! Rob will get a kick out of this, but I had actually just considered going ahead and stuffing a dry sump setup in there for future plans (one look at the crank collar and oil pump design made me think of this). The nice thing is dry sump pumps are easy to find (and buy used or get rebuilt) in USA. Roundy round cars are good for something, see? JK.

What angle should the deck of the block be sitting at for proper orientation? By this, I mean the sideways cant that all RB's have. I think I have 13 degrees at the moment. I took an inclinometer and stuck it right on the top of the deck while looking at the face of the motor from the front of the car.

Above oil level. AFAIK, you'd never want an oil drain dumping out below the pan's oil level. Aside from which, based on what one of the expert head port shops in Japan stated (in an HZ thread, no less), this is more of an air return than an oil drain (kinda like that air vent on a gas can to make the gas pour down the spout much more quickly). I'd plumb it to the right side of the oil pan above oil level if it were mine. Likewise, I have a S2 RB25 and it needs a crank collar as well, so collars are not just an RB26 thing.

There will be a 'change' to the ECU for about any car with mods like you guys are discussing. Likewise, an L28Et will require some substantial stuff to deal with injectors, turbo, cam, etc. IMHO, an SR20DET is a good choice since you get newer EFI tech, you can buy stuff to bolt the stupid thing in, etc. Mod parts and factory service parts are pretty cheap for an SR.

LOL, I recall an HPDE event with the BMW CCA at MidOhio. The instructor kept telling me to get on the throttle "more... more... more..." in midcorner. I tried to explain the issue of spool and delay of bigger turbos but he didn't seem understand; until I walked past brand new M3's on the straights. Of course they all had to come to me afterwards to tell me I had an oil leak out the exhaust (pump gas endurance tune).

Mine had the same thing in leakdown tests. It turned out to be tons of carbon in everything and some chunks dropped down onto the valve seat (keeping it it open a hair) by the time I got to number 6. I got lucky and mine looked like a traffic car from all the horrible gunk built up on everything (and practically no oil varnish). They need a good teardown anyways. Good luck with it! Post lotsa pics!

Link? Maybe we can help you ID it. EDIT: If it's this one, then it looks like a NEO to me based on the differences.

Try rawbrokerage.com, enjukuracing.com, 240sxforums.com, etc. Should be some available on one of those.

Wow, sweet!

Rocks, a big turbo will take a little more to get it to spool predictably and on cue at low rpm levels. Building a little boost (and only a little) in mid corners for proper weight distribution is tough.

If the turbo cannot reach the boost pressure that the engine is trying to flow it to, then you are probably pushing the turbo into very high CHRA rpm level, no? That will kill a turbo's bearings. I've put a customer's stock turbo EVO8 into low 11's on one and it only took about 2 months for the turbo to die. It slowly started putting out less and less boost, etc.

Sure, no problem. I just gotta get it located properly. Mack said you should shim the engine mounts to suit your needs, but you have almost enough engine mount bolt length to shim the valve cover up into the hood.

I may have to do that. The main issue seems to be getting pinion and offset for the driveshaft. I have a 280, so I am stuck with a really funky trans mounting option. What year is yours? BTW, I live in Marysville.

What did Ron Iskenderian say? Colt cams?

As an update, I called Mack at McKinney and he said sometimes they get an oddball that doesn't have a standard trans tunnel. They have a specialized mount that would work for my situation. They are going to send it out for me to try. In the meantime, I guess I will dive into the electrical and oil pan stuff.

The hubs are probably a no go, but the brakes should be searchable in the other section of the forum. The radiator won't fit. I already had someone measure an R33 GTST radiator and it won't fit on my 280Z by an inch or less. I doubt any of the suspension with swap over; have you looked under your S30? If you have enough money, anything can fit, I suppose. Biggest problem is not budgeting enough money for incidental parts needed to do a swap along with parts and labor to fix issues on the swap (although a front cut should be better since it won't get damaged as much, presumably). Most Skyline chassis stuff is pretty rare in the United States (where most of us are from). You may want to check the Aussie forums since they have both platforms. Mark

No, I have a 280Z. You don't get to reuse the factory trans mounts. You have to cut them off. The trans mount they give you is basically two pieces of angle iron (that you bolt through the floorboard) connected to each other with a round tube bent to an inverted "U" and a tab on it (in the center) to bolt the poly mount onto. McKinney said the trans tunnel has a 1/2" tolerance from the factory; thus making this design all but useless. I would have to notch the floorboard-to-trans tunnel transition a good couple of inches for the hoop as it arcs down to meet the angle iron. I am going to make my own trans mount. The factory trans mount 'ears' that I had to remove were tack welded to a reinforcement band that runs the perimeter of the trans tunnel (in an inverted 'U'). I will make a backing plate with nuts welded onto the back of it, drill holes in the band for the nuts to stick down into and then tack weld it on. That'll give me a mounting point that should be pretty tough and looks way more factory. As an aside, the band is also what it almost interfering with the speedo sensor. I may end up notching it a tad to get a bit of clearance. How far below your trans tunnel shifter opening is the top of the shifter plate on the RB25 trans in your install?

Yeah, I didn't want to mess with the rack and alter bumpsteer by moving it down/forward. Did you end up with enough room for the electronic speedo sensor? I have a 280Z and I had to remove the original trans mounts from the trans tunnel, but there is still a hoop of additional reinforcement there that is somewhat in the way of the sensor. My McKinney trans mount would not lay up against the car at all; not sure what is going on; calling Mack today.