WizardBlack

I sent you a reply. Mark

I'm assuming you don't know how to use the search button or google?

Sometimes you just need to walk away. You are bound to get burned on this. You need to be paid part of the funds ahead of time.

I am on the other side of the next stage you are talking about. I've had plenty of great cars with lots of time in them just like that. I always had something I wanted to change or improve. Plenty of things I learned along the way that made me want to go back and make something better. The bottom line is that true car guys are always struggling with constantly changing things, spending more money, elevating their car to jackstand status, etc. However, just as much, many of us find flaws that cannot be changed or other reasons to either start over on a new car of the same type or swap to another platform. I have done the former twice and the latter 9 times. It never changes. You will always have the insatiable hunger for it. Now I got deeply involved with a woman and ended up selling off 'the cars'; thinking the 'next stage' will be all different. Much like we treat our car choices, we sometimes think we are the same. We think we'll be off cars for the most part and on to something else. It's not true. I ended up married and buying a house, etc. Now, obviously, I am back into cars just as much but I have other responsibilities as well. You will always be a car guy. You won't always have the time and money to redo a car to the level you have now. At least, not for a long time. I am now stuck with a much slower progress to get my S30 up near the level of my past cars. Back then I would gladly spend $10~20k on a car (and countless hours) before the car was a year old and then just as gladly part that puppy out and be on to the next in less than a few weeks. I wish I could get back most of those cars... So, I guess my vote goes for keeping it. I know that many guys have a hard time with 'that perfect car'. They are always struggling towards it but can never reach it (and thus possibly changing cars and losing countless time and money in the process), but bothing really gets to a car guy's 'car zen' more than not having a project.

I don't remove mine; it's not a big deal, but you will probably bump into them and have to readjust them a few times when you first get them if you wrench a lot. They are definitely worth it.

LOL even Subie owners can't usually tell if they have a dead hole. As a joke, I unplugged a coil on my buddy's WRX (with mods, of course) while we talked (it was idling) and he couldn't tell. I used to tune Subaru's. It does take a bit of time to adjust to them, but a high compression Subaru with long, even tubes sounds pretty nasty.

Jacobs? They're blue... AEM?

AEM is indeed pretty polished and the mac valve is much better than a GM. I did a lot of AEM cars when I was tuning and I always recommended the nicer valve. Many later changed from the GM as it doesn't have as wide of an effective duty cycle range.

If you are considering swapping a 2JZGTE, you aught to know what BPU is, etc. Get on the supra forums. It is covered a million times. An S-AFC goes quite a ways. A small single can be managed quite easily. I would do more if you want to put a T88 on, etc. Will all the money in a big turbo setup, you should be doing the whole package. The factory ECU is quite well designed and goes quite a ways. Anyways, the entire modification route has been laid out well ahead of you. IMHO, the mkiv supra powertrain costs so much because of the potential (big power top end, lots of stock bottom end capability, heavy trans). If you don't plan to make use of it (with big turbo/s and whatnot) you're really not taking advantage of the money you spent. The SR20DET is quite abundant, cheaper, lighter (to some degree, let's not get into that discussion), etc. But hey, if it's the engine ya want, it's all good. I've tuned SR's for customers and friends, but only owned the 2JZ myself, so I've nothing against it, for sure.

Aaah.. You see, that's what I get for getting into a good tech discussion after the end of my ~23rd 14+ hr work day in a row.

Yes, Buckeye Nissan in Columbus Ohio says they have them in Memphis, TN. The part numbers are 63101-N4700 and 63100-N4700. They're $383 apiece. So, back to my WTB thread, bump!

You can ruin your motor running it that rich for a long time. Get the car warmed up and off of accel enrichment, warmup enrichment, air temp correction, etc. Now tune your base fuel map. This has to be done before most of the rest of it can be. Search my name in this sub-forum. I posted in more detail previously to help you get going on an order.

OK, so a regular old measuring tape is accurate enough, then? I get the feeling that suspension points should be jigged off of each other if you move them and otherwise you don't need sub-millimeter accuracy? Anyone have a pic of a tramming jig they made, etc? The ultimate tool would be an actual frame rack, I suppose. I have access to lots of stuff in my shop including an alignment rack, but not a frame rack. I am surprised the FSM shows that info and gives a nice little intro on how to repair stuff carefully. Anyways, thanks for all the great info, so far! I am getting towards the body repair stage with winter coming on and getting parts ready to go.

On a serious note, these look great! I am impressed. On a less serious note, all the HID lighting in the world isn't going to illuminate what the nose of a 750 whp S30 is pointed at.

Is there not a small threaded hole on the outboard end of the axle? Right out by the splines (near part number 1)? Usually that's how they are removed. You attach a slide hammer (free rental at parts store) to pop it out. The clips will sometimes fight you on an axle depending on how they migrated since they were assembled at the factory. Sometimes they practically fall off and sometimes they are a bit naughty. Be sure to buy a replacement (part number 3) to ensure it goes back together properly. Alternatively, just jack it way up on the passenger side and remove both portions. I doubt you will lose much fluid. Does it need changed anyways?

Seriously, beyond eight cylinders, how many engines do you know of that don't have a massive amount of R&D to squeeze power out of them? Four cylinders are the land of econo-boxes for economy (power and torque are not usually a high priority). Sixes are cheap "mid-size" power (get something that runs for 60~80k and then it needs parts) and eights for torquey big vehicles (again, power not high on the list). But we get to V10's and V12's and they are usually exotic engines where power is high on the list. We would need Ferrari/BMW/Merc/etc./etc. to design a 3L V6 and a 3L V12 of similar build quality to compare. I honestly think you guys hit on it, however. More valves, better rod/stroke, etc. until you get into too much friction from more cam lobes, rings, etc. Maybe one should compare relatively similar engines that have a variation in valves/cylinder for a portion of the idea, such as Modular Fords, etc. Neotech; if the bigger-cylinder engine can sustain higher rpm due to it's better rod/stroke ratio, then that should be an advantage that it can exploit for comparative purposes.

Steve, just wash your car and clean up the undercarriage before storing it in the garage. Do you have a concours resto? If not, my suggestion works just fine. Posting from Marysville...

So, is the fan mechanical or electrical? Simple question. You can't have wires, a relay and a fan clutch all in play here.

White with red stripe was 'on with ignition' wires on my car. I don't know the connector codes, sorry. Coolant getting into a connector with do all sorts of fun things. I'd inspect them closely. You will probably have to disassemble the connectors to get at the pins and clean them well enough.

The booster doesn't see boost if the check valve is installed right.

As the title states, I would like a set of good quality fenders. I am not interested in 'repairable' fenders as I have them now; nor aftermarket (as I have one now, also). Sheet metal repair isn't my forte exactly. Slight spots of surface rust and very shallow dents are OK. Basically, if it can be made ~100% without a welder it's OK by me. Sand blasting, paintwork, etc. is fine. I am in central Ohio and I'm willing to drive some distance ('Road trip!' says the wife) to pick them up. Please respond in the thread of email me pics, etc. donovan_myers@hotmail.com Thanks, Mark

I just wondered if anyone knew of a good source to explain the basics of actually setting a chassis up to measure trueness before cutting parts out (like replacing frame rails, floor pans, dog legs, etc) and making sure everything is where it should be. I mean, I know the basics what a frame rack has and I know lots of guys aren't using that kind of gear. How do you physically measure such long distances with precision? How do you know what to measure, etc.? I'm no idiot when it comes to learning stuff mechanical, but I've never seen that explained. Mark

Just make sure ignition stuff stays away from other stuff and you shouldn't really have problems. I made my own 3.0 board and relay box. Everything tested out right the first time and I've had no EMI, resets, burned components, etc. I had already revamped the power system so it had proper grounds, fuses instead of fusible links, etc. I used EDIS at the same time. The only thing I had to go back and change was switching the two wires at the crank sensor.

When I had a speed shop, my main tech was a subaru master tech. He told me the oil pump on the turbo subarus (not sure about the 'pedestrain' engines) already has fittings on it to convert to dry sump to accomodate the rally teams. Looking at them, this seems to be true. The pickup is pretty straightforward on an EJ motor. Just get into it; it's easy to understand once you look at it. Subarus are already light and low, so I would not worry about going completely out of your way for the last little bit of engine CG.

Welcome to HZ. No doubt this thread may get rerouted to the 'shay ed' or moved (hi Phleb) since this isn't really related to installing a Skyline motor in a Z, but if you search around a bit you might find the piece you seek. You can also simply fab replacement pieces for it.