WizardBlack

LOL, I thought the same thing.

The problem with most of our cars is we have WAY more in them than the insurance company will cover. I keep my car covered with a stated value policy. Otherwise, you can go find a basic S30 that still runs and is totally stock. Figure what that costs and that's what the insurance company will consider your car is worth. If the car is totaled, they will give you that value, but you still have to buy the car back. Then you have a totaled car that has to pass an inspection by the state to get it registered to drive on public roads. The big thing is you will probably have to contend with the insurance adjuster; depending on the company he/she works for and his/her attitude. You may need to get advice from your own company; if you know your insurance agent well. The most important thing is to stay polite, do your own research on vehicle values and don't just accept what they tell you. Having researched EQUIVALENT cars is the important thing for you to do. A rusted out, barely running, stock vehicle is not equivalent. That's going to be your big point of contention. Take the 'for sale' threads on here (with pics) and other sites, autotrader.com, carbuyer.com, etc is going to be very important for you so you can get what you want out of it. I have had several claims (unfortunately). I had a modified (heavily) '02 WRX that ended up totalled. New it cost $23k and was a year old. It probably booked $18k or so, but I had LOTS of documentation of the modifications, upgraded equipment, paint job, etc. When the adjuster came in, I handed him a binder of spreadsheets, printouts of car part websites, etc. When it was over, I payed the car off (it was a 60 month loan and no substantial down payment) and cleared something like $7k for the additional improvements I made. The last option is, if it totals and you don't like the payback value, insist that they replace the car with an equivalent model. (Notice that repeat of 'equivalent'?) The biggest thing is show that you have honest intentions and want to be reasonable and polite with the adjuster.

I was born the same year as my Z. My wife says that your generation is called the boomerang generation. It's funny that a lot of the kids (of whom everyone is referring) has that kind of entitlement attitude, but yet it is them who will be paying for all the lovely deficit spending that the USA is undergoing.

. I am not sure if body filler will adhere to POR15. You may have to see if you can spray a primer on top of the POR15. On the other hand, I seriously doubt that POR15 will like being applied to bondo.

Very interesting. Keep up the good info and updates!

2JZ's cost a lot because of their potential. If you aren't using that potential, then why pay for the cost in dollars and extra weight? Go RB25 for cost, ease of access and it will hit your targets.

And even more for relieving the car of the '80's stuff.

I did -6 (3/8" NPT taps) on mine with no problem. Here is a link to my project post for this mod. I don't think people were noticing without a link or the pics popping up right in their face. http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=1025069&postcount=13

I do not know for sure, but I suspect the info is already on HBZ. I thought you just changed the tailshaft housing with one from a RWD trans such as the RB25DET or VG30DE/T.

LOL, yes, good point.

LOL that is hilarious and so true. The monsterman grips are ridiculous. I'm so glad I don't live in PRK.

Hey, no problem with squirrels and hedgehogs in the road messing up your front valance, at least! You just get a slight vibration and a red mist in your side-exit exhaust! EDIT: Ooh, that's a bit graphic.

LOL, broadband beatdown!

Do you have a mechanical boost gauge? If so, is it tapped in the same line with your wastegate? Do you have a restrictor in the line going to the gauge? It might cause some issues with the wastegate controlling things if the gauge is pulling some of the air. It will act like a bleeder. Typically creep will get you to the same boost no matter where your gauge is set. It seems odd that you can turn the boost level down and it creeps to a lower number as well.

LOL, that's just mean. Heh.

Closed loop WOT via wideband is easily accomplished; even with the megasquirt. There's a reason that no one ever talks about doing it, however. Let us know how it's going!

I have done them before. Just mark the orientation of the wheels to the shaft, etc. Don't over torque anything and it will work out OK. A re-balance is supposed to be done, but guys have been doing it without it (by marking the orientation) and they seem to do decently. On one I did, I got a little carried away and torqued it past the mark and then backed it off to the right spot. It seemed balanced (SR20DET stock turbo that was leaking oil), but I noticed the CHRA play was a bit looser than a brand new one should be after I went a bit too far and loosened it again. It was still way tighter than it was, but I could have ended up with a tighter setup. Just go slow and check your progress. Be very sure to nail the mark dead on and go very slow when you are close to it.

The flapper just sits there; it doesn't take any force to move it. The spring is strong but it can be done; you just have to get a good grip on it. The spring rate of the actuator affects it a lot. If it was the stock Holset wastegate actuator, then you probably would not be able to move it.

Ah, I see. I am not familiar with those so it can be a bit misleading. Thanks for the clarification.

I wouldn't say they are all taken care of. A lot of it depends on the particular EFI. Modern stuff is more flexible. The nice thing about carbs is simplicity and some of the performance and sound you can't get with EFI. EFI is nice if you can't tune carbs and want the last bit of drivability and fuel economy. Have you considered modifications for fuel economy (and emissions)? Water Hydrolysis works and there are special catalyzer 'filters' you can put on your crankcase vent to make them burn up when they get sucked into the intake (Intercharger). I have seen cars first hand with one or both of these with substantial gains. The advantage of modern EFI working at hitting the appropriate A/F target by itself is also a hindrance if you want to tune to a different target.

Watch the space painting video. I thought it was kinda stupid at first; just gonna be random crap. Keep watching, it's insane.

LOL! What a rough day; disarmed and engaged at the same time!

To do a hybrid car you also need knowledge. I suggest you start by either buying a reliable swapped car (which is already done; no point) or start with an easier car to swap, like a 240SX with SR20DET. The swap is easier, you can still mod the turbo engine for more power to learn that side of it, etc. Plus you stay in nissan and if you buy a rolling chassis, you can later move the swap to the S30 and sell the rolling chassis again. S30's that don't need lots of regular repairs/maintenance, etc are hard to find. You will spend half of your budget doing chassis repair, wiring stuff, suspension updating, etc.

Just a minor clarification, but most people refer to forced induction as FI and electronic fuel injection as EFI. For that much money, I'd be selling the motor and buying a modern LS style motor with EFI and everything included (from a junkyard) or just keeping it carbed and saving money for the next big step with the car.

Yup, that's kinda odd, but I would run them. Scrape your fingernail across them (perpendicular to the motion of travel). If you cannot feel anything, run it. I'd probably put some ZDDP additive in the first oil change, however. Mark