Matt K

Could try Tokico 280Z springs, which are stiffer & would make your car sit a bit higher...I had Arizona Z Car handling springs on my '73, and it sat a little higher than I wanted, even with cutting a half coil off of the fronts...maybe 3/4" higher than the rear. I was told I'd have to trim a bit off to make it sit even, when I purchased them from AZC, as they use the same springs for the 240/260/280Z, and the 240 is lighter.

Boost leaks?

Damn...I've been really lucky! Knock on wood...I've never had any bad experiences in the PI, or any other of the "fun" places I've had to go for work & play...I have a small money clip that only has an ATM card & my 1000 Peso bills. I keep that in my front pocket, and in the opposite, I'll carry 1,000-2,000P in small bills to spend on drinks, food, taxi. The rest stays in my room safe with my passport. I usually will stay in the Angeles City area though, and I'm pretty connected there, so have a small measure of protection. One of these days, I'll get around to taking another vacation there again. My last was in '07...

So the 280Z has 27 spline stub shafts...and most of the short nose R200 LSDs are 29? So basically, I'd need Z31 Turbo stub shafts (& adapters?)...ugh!

I've done some searching, but just want to confirm that in order to use this short nose R200 LSD (R32 GTST Nismo CLSD, not VLSD) in my '78 280Z with longnose R200, I only require the spacers for the 12 to 10mm bolts My link? Everything else is good to go, since the '78 is an original R200 car, right? Nothing else needs to be swapped or modified, so long as I'm only installing the diff itself? This is new to me, so please don't flame me too bad...I just want to be prepared. Thanks!

I had Tokico springs & HP shocks on my old '82...handled awesome!

I daily drive my '82. Gas mileage averages only 19-20 in the city & 24 highway, but it does have a lot of miles on it (250,000+) with all original electronics & injectors. Although my A/C blows cold, it can heat up really quick on long trips at speed here in the hot Southwest or in stop & go traffic, so I suffer it out for now. I really need to upgrade the entire cooling system...other than that, I've got no complaints. I love the way it rides & handles with Tokico suspension & polyurethane bushings!

Sort of...I used washers cut in half & bonded together with JB Weld to use as shims for the intake manifold. Need to have them rebuilt & tuned...

Well, we were ALL wrong! When I ordered my MSA Header, I told them I was running triple Webers on a Cannon intake manifold with a 78 N42 motor...The Header flange seems to be too thick to seal the intake manifold, by approximately 2mm. I will dig out my micrometer & measure the thickness of both. Looks like I will have to mill the header flange in order to use it. SO, I will have to run the stock 240Z exhaust manifold on the L28 in order to be able to run it currently, AND I'll have to replace it all, spend more money to fix MSA's product to fit my application. I am NOT happy, especially after spending the extra cash for the Jet-Hot coated system, with matching twice pipes...which ALSO don't fit & need to be modified by an exhaust shop to work...

Damn. I hope that isn't the case. There has to be a better solution, as I'm sure that many others have used carb intakes on L28's....

But if there's (god forbid) any warpage, then I might have the same issue again...would using two standard gaskets stacked together work OK?

I recently finished swapping a newer '78 L28 into my '73 240Z, which previously ran an L26 with triple Weber carbs. I swapped the Cannon intake/Weber setup onto the L28 & after installing it found a horrendous vacuum leak around the first two manifold runners. I could hear it & sprayed some brake cleaner around the manifold flange & found the leak. I couldn't use the L28 intake/exhaust gasket with the Cannon intake (bolt pattern was wrong) so used the L26 gasket instead, along with a light coat of high temp RTV to help seal it. To make a long story short, it isn't sealing for some reason. I'm going to try to seal it with some RTV, and see what happens. Do I need to use the EFI L28 gasket & drill the holes correctly for my gasket? What is the correct way to do this? Also, do I need to plug off the huge crankcase breather tube?

You will require some way to tune for larger injectors. Keep in mind that most of these rails are for top feed injectors, and RX7 injectors are side feed (at least FD ones are, not sure about FC). If you had a Z31 ECU swap, you could ROM tune or possibly use something like an SAFC (not really recommended). Otherwise it'll have to be a standalone, such as Megasquirt. That's just too much of a difference...you MIGHT be able to get away with some SVO 310cc injectors with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, but it would most likely not work out too well...

Lots of 5.0 supercharged Mustang guys use those in conjunction with an intank pump, so if you do the same, yes...I wouldn't use it solely by itself at that level, myself.

Never knew they were "rare"...I've got an 82, my brother has a JDM 79 rhd with an SR20DET swapped in his. Here's a lousy pic of mine, daily driver...

Adjust your valves lately? What's your timing set to? Have you done a GOOD tuneup yet? TPS connection good? Fuel filter? A lot of little things can contribute to it running sluggish.

7500 rpm in 5th gear in my 240SX, racing a built Z32 TT on the highway (he lost...badly, 4 times in a row). No clue how fast it was...Too fast! It was very stable though, as it has all the supporting equipment to fly. 522 rwhp, 255-40-18's, 4.36 gears.

Why not just toss in a 2mm headgasket?

Same block for turbo & n/a of the same years...

Me too...

About time...too bad I just made a deal on an MSA Type 2. These should go quick though...make sure you advertise on zdriver.com as well. Lot of ZX guys there.

Nice price! Where'd you get them?

It doesn't make the kind of numbers you're thinking. 89-93 model supercharged 3.8's made 210 hp/315 lbs torque @ 12lbs factory boost, 94+ model made 230 hp/330 lbs. Not feasible to swap the rear end.

I have a set of Venom 1000cc sidefeeds on my SR20DET, which are actually modified 740cc injectors. I sent them to Witch Hunter before using them, even though they are supposedly flow tested & balanced at the factory. One failed new right out the box. They've been working OK over the last year, but recently started giving me problems, running lean. They were within 11% across the board & the flow pattern sucked ass, but all flowed over 1000cc. Going to send them off one more time, then they're getting replaced with something that actually works.

Did you have to roll your fenders at all?