spork

Talk to steve280 on zcar.com. He installed the one for bubbles, and ordered another for a different customer of his. We did a little bit of customization to his second one by angling the TB to help aid in piping under the hood.

sounds like hes not a real mechanic...he must've just stayed at a holiday inn express...lol. Anyways, cancel the check and report him to the BBB

I'm running a Zirgo 16" fan with the stock shroud on my 280zxt. Runs plenty cool

I like it, now I need to make one for my LM1 instead!

I knew there had to be a post about it someplace...but I just couldn't find the info. Thanks.

I've heard a lot of bad things about those turbos, on the other hand, a low cost turbo option is the masterpower brand. I'm running one of thier "t70" turbos and am having very good luck with it. Housings are interchangable with turbonetics so you can swap things as needed and the durabilityat this point seems to be fairly good. Just don't buy from turbocalculator.com. I fought very hard to get my money back from them, and suggest you don't spend any money at all with them if you want to actually recieve the items you order.

Hey, just curious if there is still a timeslip database here, or if its no longer up. Or has someone just hidden it and I can't find the link anymore???

well, it seems like no one has still done this? Or at least if they have, they haven't posted. lol. well, I guess I'll be the first then. A buddy and I are going to split up a kit he bought and hes doing it to his new drag car and I'm trying it out on my turbo Z. When ever I get around to making it to the dyno, I'll try and do my final 2 runs with the crankcase just vented vs it hooked up to my exhaust and see what the difference is.

I've bought through them several times. Never had any problems. The one time they were backordered on a part, they let me know right away and let me cancel that part.

he's just changing the housings. I think at thsi point the best bet would be still be to get this turbo to work. A new one is is still going to cost you quite a bit more than a housing. Either Jegs or Summit can order you a housing fro turbonetics, you just need to make sure you know what you need before ordering it.

How old is the turbo? If it has much age on it at all, becareful with the turbine housing bolts. They can break and cause headaches. If you're just scraping the old housing, then it doesn't matter, but if you plan on using it or selling it, spray the bolts down real well with penitrating oil and let them sit a little bit before trying to remove them.

I'm curious as well, any updates?

well, I guess it depends on which "seals" you are talking about. Bad valve gide seals is an easy fix and you're out only $20 if you do it yourself. If your turbo is the culprit, then it needs rebuilt, or you need to figure out if you're getting excessive blow-by and causing the seals yo unseat in the turbo. Another option would be piston oil rings with a bad seal. If oil is leaking by the rings then it most likely is time to tear it down and check things out.

Here's a link to a page on my car. http://www2.nissanofwichita.com:8080/website/NissanOfTheMonth.htm There have been some changes since this article (or you can check out my car in Sport Z Magazine in the fall 2005 issue. The biggest changes to the car were an upgraded cam and springs, along with some head porting and one of my companies intake manifolds. I only made 3 passes or so at the track before I burned up a sprakplug wire. All 3 were on street tires and the first 2 I was onl low boost. The 3rd run I went12.08@125 (bogged it off the line horribly).

To answer your question. My stock rods (race prepped) hold 30psi of boost no problem. That said there is some good advice given in the above posts.

If lunar doesn't use it, let me know, I have a customer that I could help out with it as he's having his manifold jet hot coated after it leaves our shop.

don't be afraifd to open up the area where runners 1, 2, 3, and 4 come through to the collector. It's think there so it will take awhile, but it will help flow quite a bit. the gasket matching that was done is a great start, just don't stop there. Work further in the ports and open up that area as mentioned above.

I painted mine the same color as the rest of the car as well as a strip across the T-top, It helps make hem blend in a little more IMO.

Okay, I purchased a used nitrous kit with all the safeties (low fuel pressure switch, window switch etc.) and am wondering whos running a stock tank setup and running dual pumps? I'm currently pushing right at 500hp on boost and am using the walbro255hp inline pump on my 280zxt. Looking at flow charts and so on, I think my pump is going to be running out of juice if I try to tie a nitrous system into it as well. I'm thinking of eventually running a 125shot, but starting with a 50 or 75. It seems like everyone would recommend a seperate fuel system to do this right. That leads me to another question. If I don't go the route with 2 fuel systems, how would my nitrous and fuel jetting react with varying boost pressures also changing my fuel pressure. Would the car be lean till full boost because of less fuel pressure to the fuel jet? If so, then thats all the more reason to go with a seperate fuel system. I'm thinking 2 pumps, one acting exactly like it is now, and the second one going to a seperate regulator and fuel solonoid then a seperate fuel return line as well? Or could I just upgrade my exsisting fuel return line to a larger one and tie them together? As far as the regulator goes, what kind of fuel pressure would be ideal to run to the fuel jet? Do I just pick a nice round number and adjust the jet accordingly? Sorry for all the questions guys, nitrous is kind of a new territory for me. I understand how the basic system works, but need help with details.

I had seriously considered doing the same thing, but they didn't seem like they want to help me any and wouldn't give me dimensions of struts that they had so I could source something that would be close enough to work w/ new bracketry. I decided to go a different route. They wanted way too much for their products anyways.

If it leaked once...it'll leak again. You're going to want to pull the head off and go with a new gasket. I'd honestly suggest the stock nissan gasket if you don't want to go with a gasket like the HKS. Check all your surfaces to make sure they're perfectly flat. Run the car and retorque it after it sitting over night. Don't get on the throttle, just drive it like a old lady for a bit and try to stay out of boost. As far as your compression ratio ges...you've gotta figure out what you have now, and then we can help you figure out what it would be with a thinner gasket.