spork

hmmm...lol....whenever I hear "gear box" I think of tranny, and when I hear "gears" I think of the rear end. Anyways, looks like a killer build...keep us updated

Most likely the adjuster came loose. When was the last time you adjusted your valve lash? Was the adjuster loose at all when you went to put it back together? If you're worried about your springs, have someone at a shop test them for you, its quick and easy to do.

hmmm...I had planned to do this at one time and decided against it because of the glass problems one would have on a 280zx (with t-tops). One of these days I'm still going to do it. I cut up several plastic model cars and got everything figured out...short of the side window glass. Tempered Glass is a funny thing... Now on a side note, did you simply weld the seams together or did you put sleeves in the pilars and off-set your cuts to keep all the strength? Or is all this superficial and you have plans of putting in a cage to keep the proper strength?

The intake was sold to 240ztt, but in the future, I will have a manifold of my own design with velocity stacks in the runners complete with fuel rail also for sale. All that is left is getting the TB opening done, and welding it together, and then powdercoating it. Check out my website if you like. http://www.lonewolfperformace.com There aren't any picures of that exact manifold up as it is still being developed, but we are pretty close to completion of the proto type. (lots of irons in the fire right now) Feel free to send me an e-mail if you're interested.

now...I'm confused, but partially enlightened...I think...lol. So removing the rear roll bar will increase or decrease the effective spring rate in the back?

I don't know if you're fimiliar w/ James Thagard's custom intakes he made and sold or not, but I have one and it will be for sale soon. I don't know if it'll do exactly what you want, but I thought I'd throw it out there. Hope I'm not intruding in this post, but I know there are just not a lot of custom intakes out there floating around in the market. I'd like to get $450 out of it as it comes with one of Pallnet's fuel rails set up for o-ring injectors. I paid $350 for the intake and around $115 or so for the fuel rail and they are in excellent shape (plus whatever shipping was involved in getting them here). Also, not that it matters, but I believe I own the only one of his manifolds that will also fit in a 280zx. It was just a simple modification, but if you would ever sell it to someone else, you would have the plus of it fitting either car. Email me at datsun280zxt@sbcglobal.net if you want to see pictures of it on my car, or sitting on my garage floor...lol. Anyways, just thought this might be a cheaper route...

I went with turbonetics evolution wastegate. Its been great, but make sure if you buy it, that the instructions they give you are REV. B or later. Them bastards sent me a wastegate and mis-labeled the springs in the instructions and I spent forever trying to figure things out. Finally I looked at a buddys instructions and his was labeled REV. B, while mine was "A". No mention of this on thier website or anywhere else... On my masterpower T-70 turbo I've run boost as low as 6-7psi with no creep and up to 30psi on the highend and the wastegate works great.

man, If I lived closer I'd buy them up, but I don't think I'd be able to stack them all on my trailer at once and make the trip back to kansas...lol

yup, I run 75-90w sythetic mobile one in mine...our trannys used the gear oil, not atf...

well, i suppose we'll need to know how thick the spacer you're going to use will be then...The thicker the spacer, the more chances you'll have interference problems

is it a reflection, or is that scuffed cylinder walls on the number one hole?

are you going to use the stock exhaust manifold?

Generally speaking, you'll get more hp by keeping the static compression low and running more boost than you will by upping the compression and running less boost. Boost will ake more Hp than the increase in static compression will get you. That said, a little increase in compression isn't a bad idea as the stock levels are awfully low. I prefer someting around the 8:1 range. It gives you plenty of "pep" on the street and off boost response as well as allowing you to build bigger boost levels to get the big power. I guess it all depends on the exact use of the car. (and what kind of fuel you're running) As far as Pjo046, hes doing the right thing about wanting to raise the compression, just don't go too high, or you'll be resorting to high octane fuels not generally found at the pump

Well, I haven't had a chance to talk to anyone yet, but heres what I found on NHRA's website. The last rule update for IRS that I could find was done in 1998/99. Heres what it says. --------------- A long-standing rule that requires any car with independent rear suspension (IRS), weighing over 2000 pounds, and running 10.99 or quicker to replace the IRS with a conventional rear-end housing has been modified. For 1999, only those IRS designs which utilize a lower control arm only (like a 1963 to 1982 Corvette) will have to comply with the above requirement. If the suspension utilizes both upper and lower control arms, the IRS may be retained regardless of weight or e.t. ----------- Doesn't our car classify as having both upper and lower control arms?

As far as cams go, I just ordered my turbo cam from Web Cams. It's a 155 grind with the lobe center moved to 112. 488 lift and 230 duration @ .50. If you order from web cams, you can get the cam a little cheaper if you go throught Import Performace Parts. I don't know if they'll let you custom spec the cam or not tho...

So what does a guy do if he wants to run some of these import classes like NOPI's Turbo 6 class...are you guys saying that I need to pick a different car? lol. I figure I need to run mid 9's to be somewhat competative. Heres what they state •DRIVE TRAIN: FWD, AWD, and RWD entries. Stock drive train configuration required. OEM rear end must be used. * Rear ends: O.E. bolt in differential casing allowed. No aftermarket substitutes allowed. Examples (8.8â€, 9â€, or 12 bolt). If vehicle comes stock with I.R.S., vehicle must stay that way for competition. am I screwed, or will they allow it? I guess I just need to find someone to call and fine out...

Well, I'll give a few more details as well as maybe it'll help get a few more responses...lol. I'm runing polished rods (stock) and stock crank with 30 over Venolia pistons (but don't even get me started on the quality of them). Other than that, I've got a master power T-70 turbo, one of Thagard's custom intakes, a custom header I built, and then the usual stuff to go with it like external wastegate, blow off valve, spearco...blah blah blah.

any one else? I know there are more people out there running upgraded turbo cams...

I went with atp also...good prices and quick shipping