spork

Maybe I'm lucky, but I'm running a Master Power turbo from a vendor other than turbo calculator and made 346whp at 19psi. I'm currently running it at 30psi and still no problems. I've had things torn apart fairly regularly and have no rubbing of the housings at all and have been pretty happy with it. The only problem I had was thier T4 series exhaust housings only come as small as a .68 which is too big for an L-series motor. I just went to Turbonetics and bought a different housing and swapped it in. Bolts right up with no fitment issues and works great.

lol...good luck...I placed an order...and had to get my money back from them by filing a claim through paypal. They also threatened to call the cops on me because I was "harassing them". I told them don't worry about calling the cops, I already did. I will NEVER deal with them again. What products are you looking to buy from them? If it's a Master Power barand Tubo, I'll point you in the direction of the guy I bought mine from. Very easy to deal with and actually had better pricing. I bought a wastegate from him as well. Anyways, If you want to know any more about them, I believe I posted here or zcar.com about them quite a while back.

I guess I'm the short guy of the bunch running .025" at 30psi. I've considered going tighter as I occasionally get a slight misfire up top. I haven't decided if its plugs or something else tho. I'm running an SDS Em4-6F system with MSD coil packs instead of the SDS ones. I've talked to several other turbo guys (not Z's) running them at around .020" You just have to be careful as they can foul up easier at this setting due to tighter clearances (when idling the car rich for long perods of time...atleast on leaded gas)

you can get them through the dealer as well, and aren't priced very bad either

I second the methanal injection kit. Running race gas will scare people away, and Methanol has some very good benifits as well. If you go with a programable EMS, you can run a lot of methanol and cut back your fuel and make some really good power without the detonation. As far as the nitrous kit, I'd recommend going with direct port nozzles if you go with a very big shot. You WANT even distribution! Build, or have built a header for your exhaust and build heat shields to hide it. Then put your nozzles on the underside of the intake. Now they're invisible except to the detailed prying eyes. As far as your intake goes...you're going to have to do quite a bit of work to it, but I believe it to be possible. Make friends with an aluminum welder, and life will be a lot easier....

Slightly different answer, but I had custom pistons made and went with flat tops for the better quench and am using a 2mm HKS Gasket and I'm at 7.8:1 I know this isn't exactly what you were asking, but the stock flat tops will work great...but detonation will kill them. If you can afford it, and plan on making a lot of power or pushing your car hard, Forged pistons may be a good investment for your project.

well, the injectors are doing okay...I've just jacked up the fuel pressure up some to help out. It stillidles pretty decent, but my guess is if I go too much higher with the base fuel pressure, I'm going to be running into problems. The injectors don't like high pressures and high duty cycle either...I've fried a couple, and its just a matter of time before I go to 720's.

yeah...I'm working on setting the back up with airbags to assist the regular springs. Right now I have the springs spaced up to keep the car from squating right on top of my slicks and cutting them. It only sorta works. If you read one of my other posts here, I'm trying to set up air bags on the rear control arms so I can adjust the squat some without eliminating it. As far as the 30psi goes...thats easy...just crank the knob on the boost controller all the way...and thats 30psi...lol Seriously tho, that Masterpower T-70 is set up to move that kind of air effeciently, so its not a problem. Other than that I've built the bottom end of the motor right.

the rear springs go right around the shock....how would you put an air bag in there? Maybe they are setup with shocks mounted elswhere?

I've got an 83 280zxt that I drag race. As many of you know, there aren't a huge amount of options for suspension upgrades for the 280zx. I could go with coil overs but that would be expensive. I'm looking to decrease rear squat (not elminate it) when launch hard on slicks. I currently have new springs and shocks in the rear, which helped some, but is still far from ideal as I just about put the rear bumper on the ground when launching (1.6-1.5 60fts) My idea is to use some airbags I have (from a semi-truck sleeper) and mount them to the rear control arm by making a perch and then cutting the floor where the storage compartment is just enough to get things flat and have adequate clearance on each side of the air bag. This way I can adjust air a little at a time till I get it where I want it, anot have to worry about altering spring rates, and could deflate the bags completely to get normal ride when driving on the street. Below is a picture of the rear control air with a deflated bag just sitting about where I was thinking about mounting it. Anyone done anything like this before, or have suggestions on a better way to do it?

I don't know where he bought is, but I've sen them at some hardware stores and they're used on Freightliner trucks to hold the grille in place. If you go to a freightliner dealership, they;ll know what you;re talking about. Tell them you need the rubber/metal stud for holding a grille in on a Freightliner classic

If you do some searching in the archives, either here or the dreaded zcar.com, you'll see that some people have gone as far as opeing up thier ECU case and resoldering the pins to the board. I guess some of these people have found that this will entirely cure thier problem. The connections to the board weren't real great due to time and vibration, and now haven't had any problems since. Just thought I'd throw that out. I've never performed this because I've never had the problems you guys are talking about on my 280zxt.

The thing you have to be careful with is how big you can go without modifying the intake manifold. Do some measurements, but the las hing you'd want to do is port it out and cut through to the outside. Then you'd need to have someone weld it up. Also, how big is your intercooler piping? I can't see any advantage of going to a TB bigger than your pipes. If I'm wrong, I'd love to have someone clear this up for me.Your pipes would be the restricting factor. Now if you stepped up the pipe size as well, then thats a whole new story.

hos it always been like this since you installed the ecu, or is it something that developed afterwards? I'm just trying to narrow things down...by the way, who burned the ecu? Also, your right, your vaccum should be higher at idle. Are you running a stock air idle control valve? have you checked it per your FSM? You're car shouldn't be idling that high unless the engine is cold...or it thinks the engine is cold. If your car has a fairly agressive aftermarket cam, then you might need a higher idle, but it doesn't sound like thats the case for your car...

you know...I don't think my car has ever seen coolant in it for more than a year....I'm always tearing it down for repairs or upgrades and always have to pull a radiator hose. I t gets new coolant everytime. Not to steal the thread, but is everyone else like this too?

Just curious...I assume you're using some sort of wideband to determine this? Just wanting to make sure...by the way, can we have more info on your setup? Stock fuel computer, aftermarket management? The more info, the easier to help you.

I just recieved my copy of Sport Z Magazine in the mail today and had to tell everyone to check out page 14 and 15! After waiting nearly a year after initial contact with Sport Z, My car made it in the magazine. It's the Blue 280zxt...check it out! It's kinda like having an extra birthday or christmas...lol.

When I had Thagards intake on my car, I used a 60mm 240sx TB.

If you don't mind me asking, what are you doing with the recaros? Interested in selling them, have any pictures of them. I could use some new seats for my daily driver...

I've done the threaded rod and used additional springs and gotten it up to 25psi whith my hybrid turbo. With my T70 I went with an external wastegate and a profec-b...and I like it alot better. Much easier to switch from street to track settings...

You need to find a bung that is steel and weld it to the manifold. Or I've occasionally seen people just drill a hole in the manifold and carefully tap threads into it. If you need a new bung, just go to a large truck shop (kenworth, freighliner, etc.) and buy one there. I buy mine for about $2.00 a piece

They are different, so you will need to obtain both a right and left. One has a longer stub that goes into the diff. I can't remember off hand which one is the longer one tho.

I'm always just purchased a "melling" brand one from the local autoparts store.

I had problems when purchasing from IPP/flatlander and theydidn't seem to really care much about what they were selling. Sorry about adding to the thread jack...