rejracer

I don't mind relevant key words, but when they do this, I flag them. For example, some of the shops around here advertise JDM motors and list 240z in there. It's somewhat relevant as it's a known swap, but not entirely legit in my opinion. Still, I cut them slack on tht type of stuff. It's been in the last month that a few folks have been advertising 5 lug wheels and honda parts, or 4 lug in a smaller circle. I blast them every time if it's the wrong pattern. If it's blatant spam, i'll blast them.

I sent this to him today: http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/1606140099.html Hi there, I noticed your add, and that you are spamming. If you want to add keywords, fine, so long as they are relevant to the items offered. The keywords section in the above post is simply ridiculous. These parts are incompatible with 90% of the vehicles you have in the keywords section of your post. I will continue to monitor this, and will mark any adds as spam that are spam. Secondly, Your English could be a cause of poor sales, not your perceived lack of keywords. Quote: "I DONT KNOW WHY I KEEP GETTN FLAGGED BY THE SAME IDIOT-I THINK WE ALL ARE TRYN TO MAKE $$$$ HERE-STOP HATEN AND BUY SOMETHING" Let me help you with this: 1. First off, it's rude to use all caps, it's the same as yelling. 2. DONT is properly spelled don't. 3. GETTN is properly spelled getting, or perhaps you were trying to say get TN (Tennessee). The latter would need further explanation as it makes no sense as is. 4. IDIOT-I is not a word, and there is no proper use of the hyphen (-) between the two. If you wish to start a new sentence, it is properly done in the English language with a period (.) followed by two spaces( ). 5. TRYN is spelled train or trying. Please pick one and run with it. 6. $$$$ I believe you are trying (or is that TRYN) to state money. Could also be an income or a living. 7. HATEN is spelled hating, unless you were referring to someone named Hayden. 8. The overall sentence is also an acknowledgement that you know you are spamming, but just don't care. This discourages buyers, as no one likes spam 9. It takes more than one person to have your add removed from craigslist, so I'm not alone. I personally encourage others to mark spam as spam, as it's the only way to discourage this type of behavior. 10. If I owned a honda, or anything that these parts would work with, I might be tempted to buy something. With that said, it's rude to state "stop haten and buy something". Might I suggest the following as a replacement sentence: I don't know why I keep getting flagged by the same idiot. We all are trying to make a living. Please stop flagging my posts as spam and buy something. Please note the proper use of punctuation, spelling and sentence structure. If you are going to attempt to use the English language, use it properly. Your sales will be increased as a result. If that is what you intended to convey in your original sentence, then I can only reply that I will refrain from flagging you when you refrain from spamming in your keywords list. Until you recognize that point, and remove the improper use of keywords, I will continue to mark posts that contain spam as spam. This is all within the craigslist terms of use, which you are violating. To further help you, here is a link to Craigslists Terms of use. http://www.craigslist.org/about/terms.of.use#conduct If you still wanted to spam, but just want me off your back, simply remove 240z, 260z, 280z, 300zx, impala, LS1, and chevy from your list, as that is what I am looking for. While you are at it, also remove any city name. The less you are spamming, the less your posts get marked as spam. Lastly, your spam/keyword list is 16,783 bytes of garbage. There are 2925 words in your keywords section, many of the duplicated. If you remove the duplicates you only have 879 keywords, this is less than half! Please quit this as it's unnecessary waste, at least be a responsible spammer! FYI, I have taken the time to clean up your spam list. Here are the unique key words, minus the terms I don't want in there. If you decide to use it, no thanks is necessary. If you decide not to use it, expect your posts to get marked as spam. Even though it's cleaned up, there are still a lot of terms that are spam, but I don't mind if you spam others, just not my interests. Keyword/Spam list: 15, 15's, 16, 16's, 17, 17's, 18, 18's, 19, 19's, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2, 2.2, 2.5, 20, 20's, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 22", 22b, 22s, 24", 240, 240sx, 24s, 2t-ge, 3, 300c, 318i, 318is, 323, 323ci, 323cic, 323i, 325, 325ci, 325cic, 325i, 325is, 328ci, 328cic, 328i, 328is, 330, 330ci, 330cic, 330i, 350, 350gt, 350z, 350znismo, 4, 4a, 4age, 4agzecivic, 4b11t, 4drintegra, 4g63t, 5, 525, 530, 540, 54geg, 5zigen, 6, 6aLm, 8, 86, 9, 92-95, ?, a, a6, Aasco, AC, accent, accord, acra, act, acura, acurafiber, AcuraIntegra, ad, adr, adsga, ae, ae85, ae86, aem, air, airbag, airbags, akimoto, all, Altima, aluminum, amber, AMG, amps, an, ap, ap1, ap2, apex, apexi, arm, at, audiomtx, Authority, auto, automobile, Autotechnic, avenger, aveo, axis, axle, azda3, azeni, azenis, b, b-series, b16, b16a, b16a1, b16a2, b16a3, b16b, b17, b18, b18a, b18a1, b18b, b18b1, b18c, b18c1, b18c5, b20, back, bag, bagged, bags, bar, bars, bartokico, bb, bb4, bb6, bbr, bbs, bBxA, beetle, benen, benz, beretta, bezel, blackies, blades, blanks, blitz, block, blow, blox, blue, bmw, bmwcca, body, bomex, boost, bra, brake, brakesslotted, break, brembo, bride, bride5zigen, bseries, bucket, buddy, buick, bulit, bumper, buy, buying, buyto, c, c10, C101967, c10slipstream, c8, cage, caliber, camaro, camber, camery, camry, cams, caprice, car, carbon, carboy, carlo, carpet, cars, catback, catcatalytic, catz, cavalier, CB7, celica, celicia, cf, charger, chassis, cheap, cheep, chromehondata, chrysler, cirrus, civc, civic, civicparts, civil, cl, class, classic, clear, clearbra, clk, club, club2, cluster, clutch, cobalt, coil, coilover, coilovers, colt, competition, comptech, concorde, contour, control, controlHKS, conversion, Cordova, corolla, corsica, corvette, coupe, crown, cruiser, crv, crx, ct9a, ctr, cts, cusco, cx, cza4, d, d-series, d15, d16, d16y8, DA, da6, da9, das, dash, db, dc, dc2, dc5, deal, deep, defi, del, delsol, denali, dependable, distributer, distributor, DM, do, doch, dodge, dohc, donut, donuts, door, doors, dorifto, dr31, drag, drift, drifting, Driven, driver, dsm, DUNLOP, dx, dxturbo, dynamics, e, e30, E36, E46, eclipse, economy, ecu, edition, edm, ef, ef8, ef9, EG, eg6, eg9, eh, eibach, ej, ej20, ej25, EK, ek6, ek9, elantra, em, end, engine, enkei, ep, ES, es300, escalade, escort, Euro, European, evo, evo8, evolution, ex, exedy, exhaust, exspecial, f, f20, falken, fast, fat, fender, fiber, fit, fitment, fives, fix, floormats, fluid, flush, focus, folding, for, ford, free, front, FS, fsfsdf, fuel, fusion, g20, g35, g37, gab, Garage, gas, gd8, gdb, GE, GH, glass, GLE, god, godspeed, golf, good, GR, gramlight, gramlights, gre2001, greddy, grill, ground, grs, GS, gs300, gs400, gs430, gsr, gst, gt, GT-R, gt3, gto, GTR, gts, h, h&r, h22, H22a, h23, harness, hart, hasport, hatch, hatchback, HB, head, headersexhaust, headlight, headlights, hella, hellaflush, hemi, hf, hfp, hhr, hid, hks, hon, honda, hood, hrsth, htry, hx, hydraulics, hydros, hyundai, I-30., i30, ignition, iamanidiot, import, imports, impreza, impulse, indash, infiniti, infinity, injen, Inspire, intake, integra, integratype, intercooler, intrepid, is, itr, j's, jackson, jdHEADERS, jdm, jdmhonda, jdmSR20DET, jdmusdm, jedi, jetta, jl, jspec, k&n, k20, k24, ka24, ka24de, ka24e, kaaz, kaminari, kei, Key, keyword, keywords, kicker, kit, knob, knuckle, koni, konig, kp60, kp61, Krustee, Krusty, lancer, lanos, las, lebaron, leganza, legend, levin, lexus, light, lights, lincoln, lincolnJDM, lip, Location, looks, lowering, lowrider, ls, ls/vtec, ls400, ls460, lsd, lsr, lucerne, lug, lumina, luxury, lx, lxhonda, lxsi, M, M3, magnum, malibu, manual, marker, matrix, Mattz, max, maxima, maxx, mazda, Mazda6, Mazda8, mdx, me, mercedes, mercury, mesh, meter, metro, Mid-size, mini, mini-me, minitruck, miracle, mirror, mirrors, mitsubishi, modesto, momo, monte, motor, motorsport, motorswap, mpg, MR-2, mr2, msd, mugen, mugenmazdaspeed, must, mustang, mystique, n1, neon, neuspeed, next, nice, niello, nismo, niss, nissan, nitrous, no, nos, nsx, nubria, obx, oem, off, offset, old, oldsmobile, ondacivic, one, Ones, option2, out, over, p06, p28, p72, pads, panel, parting, partparts, parts, Passat, passenger, Peace, PeaceOnes, piaa, pilot, pontiac, porsche, power, ppf, prelude, prizm, probe, project, pt, q45, r, race, racing, ractive, radiator, Rancho, rav4, rays, razo, rb25det, real, rearwheel, recaro, red, regal, regamaster, retgretgre, retgretsivic, rev, RHD, rice, ricer, ride, RIMS, rio, riviera, rl, rolling, rota, rotary, rotor, rotors, rs, rs*r, RS-R, rsk20, RSR, rsx, rub, rubbing, runner, RWD, RX-7, RX7, rx8, RX8RX-8, s, s13, s14, s15, s2000, s202, s203, s204, s2k, s2kmagnaflow, sale, saver, sc, sc300, school, scion, scrape, scraper, scraping, SE, se-r, seat, seats, sebring, Sedan, sell, selling, sentra, sephia, ser, series, seville, sf46t354ytg, shadow, shell, shift, shifter, shocks, si, sigma, signal, silver, Silvia, sir, sir2, sirg, sivic, six, skunk2, skyline, skylines2000, SL, slaw, slipstream, slk, slow, socal, soch, sohc, sol, sonata, sparco, spectra, speed, spoiler, spoon, sport, sports, springs, sprint, sr20, sr20det, sr20detc5, srt-4, ssr, stance, starlet, steelies, steering, STI, stock, stockaftermarket, stockton, storm, stratus, street, stretched, strut, struts, Subaru, subs, supercharger, support, supra, suspension, swap, sx, tahoe, tail, taillight, taillights, talon, tanabe, tao, taurus, tc, tec, TEG, tein, tenzo, tenzo-r, tercel, thay, this, thunderbird, thunderhill, tiburon, tire, tires, tl, to, tokico, Tom's, TomWRX, torc, touge, TOYO, toyota, toysport, track, trade, trading, tranny, transmission, trd, Truck, trueno, trunk, trust, tsx, Tuning, turbo, turbosupercharge, turn, tv, two, type, type-r, type-s, uberdata, ukdm, ura, usdm, v, Valor, valve, vegasmodesto, veilside, version, victoria, vigor, VIP, viper, vis, volk, volks, volkswagan, volkswagen, vortech, vortex, VR6, vtec, vtech, vw, vx, wanted, wastegate, watanabe, west, wheel, wheels, wing, wings, wingwest, words, work, works, wrx, wtb, wtt, x, x-bar, xa, xb, yellow, yokohoma, yukon, zenkikouki, zexexpress, zigen, ZigenA-Spec, zx3, zx4, zx5 Hope this helps! -The spam patrol

What's up Hybrid Z? In the sacramento area we are having problems with spammers on craigslist. I've been flagging as many posts as come up as spam to discourage this. I usually scan the ad and if there is anything that can be remotely related to a Z car I lay off and don't tag them. It's very irritating when I see 5 lug wheels and honda parts with the 240z listed as just a keyword. This guys is clueless as to why he is getting flagged. Let me know if you think I'm being too harsh, but if you are irritated by this too, do a search in sacramento craigslist and let them know to take out certain keywords, specifically: 240z 260z 280z 280zx So i guess I am "an idiot" because I don't see the need to strap on a 92-95 civic fender to my Z. By the way, what is "HATEN"? Apparently I need to stop doing it, whatever it is. http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/1606140099.html I DONT KNOW WHY I KEEP GETTN FLAGGED BY THE SAME IDIOT-I THINK WE ALL ARE TRYN TO MAKE $$$$ HERE-STOP HATEN AND BUY SOMETHING 92-95 HONDA CIVIC F1 FENDERS-NEW PAINTED GLOSS WHITE with nice cage attatched- asking $200 obo NEW BUDDY CLUB stage2 body kit for 92-95 honda civic-looks tight ,POLY FIBER-(bendable)not the cheap fiber glass that brakes if you hit a bump-,comes with front/rear bumper,,side skirts and un cut carbon fiber wind splitter with hard wear all in plastic, asking$550-trust me thats dummy cheap or check for yourself, ( bottoms pics of the body kit ) 92-95 HONDA CIVIC STOCK CLOCK, has crack but cant really tell-asking $15 92-95 honda civic dash center piece that goes around the steering wheel and climate control-primered grey-$10 92-95 honda civic eg rear typr-r lip, has melted end for big muffler tips-painted black, fits hatch perfect-$40 others REAL CARBON FIBER SHIFT KNOBB, UNIVERSALFOR AUTOMATICS- asking $45 GREDDY MUFFLER WITH 2 RESIGNATORS(silencers) came off mitsubishi lancer asking $100 17 konig rims, used and abused, rims are painted back with polish lip-has curve scratches one rim has a semi cracked spoke, can be welded-$100 obo 2001-up honda civic aftermarket tail lights NEW-$40 94-up acura integra NEW one piece aftermarket tail lights $40 morrow snow board with boots, bindings and carrying bag-$100 pic upon request-thanks,no trades, serious only cash money/ buy a couple of thing and of course ill give you a better price or shoot me a descent offer key words: honda acura jdm 18 b17 h22 b16 integra spoiler lip front end conversion parts intercooler wastegate jdHEADERS EF EG EK DC TURBO RIMS HONDA strut bar taillights shift knob floormats ACURA JDM turbo racing fuel msd 6aLm dc2 eg6 eg9 da dc5 crx civic integra honda acura miracle next x-bar gsr ls rsx type-s ctr itr type-r mugen cheep spoon steering wheel bumper fender good fast slow no one looks at this do thay ? exhaust clutch j's racing cusco recaro wing b16b b18c gsr k20 ek9 fit door bb4 bb6 da s2000 ap1 ap2 wheels carpet ef rhd jedi racing ssr type x jdm usdm falken tires real deal rims parts nice civc DA CRX TEG blox six sigma race gsr bulit b20 b16 b18 type-r ssr type x silver bbr competition real deal jdm wings west rs turbo mirrors power folding strut bars civic ek eg hood fender bumper radiator grill lip trunk door doors driver passenger distributor engine motor transmission shifter headlight head light turn signal marker taillight tail light mirror glass support head fluid break control arm axle strut struts knuckle ignition airbag air bags air bag dash cluster bezel seats door panel rota drag track r slipstream volk rays works gt3 jdm for sale for trade dr31 swap gramlights eg ek s2k nissan toyota honda parts b series keywords:spoon,JDM,EK9,da6,eg,civic,HB,honda,acura,turbo honda, luxury sport clear acura honda civic engine tranny manual transmission tail lights 92-95 civic 4drintegra racing seats Tenzo tv indash Valor lowrider bagged air ride hydraulics impala tahoe yukon denali escalade 24s rims chevy keywords air ride bagged 17 rims lowrider civic honda acura integra 24s 22s 24" 22" rims hydraulics hydros air bags ppf clearbra clear bra keyword: toyota, corolla, camry, supra, celicia, rav4, 4 runner,tao, honda accord civic pilot crv, bmw 325 323 330 525 530 540 benz c class e class s class clk slk, ford, volkswagan, jetta, beetle nissan mazda defi rsr hid fat fives amber fit swap hfp act sparco exedy nsx sport max konig tire ssr 5zigen greddy hks apexi n1 gt si sir sir2 brembo msd skunk2 acura, honda, jdm, da, dc, db, ek, eh, eg, bb, ef, civic, crx, del sol, prelude, b16, b18, h22, vtec, ls/vtec 4 trade trading buying race power sale sell selling rota gt3 c8 adsga c10 dx ex gs rs ls gsr lsr rs si sir sirg wanted prelude accord transmission eg ef ek em ep civic integra del sol s2000 s2k rsx accord gsr type r itr ctr vtec v tec honda acura blades ls mesh rota v prelude, b16, b18, h22, vtec, ls/vtec 4 trade trading buying race power sale sell selling rota gt3 c8 adsga c10 slipstream si blades minitruck bagged stockton sacramento modesto mugen k20 rsx type-s CIVIC, brake, pads, brembo, blanks DM, RWD, RHD, race, cage, 240sx, s13, s14, s15, g35, 300zx, 350z, lexus, nissan, toyota, wheels, rims, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, honda, civic, accord, scion, tc, xb, xa, sc300, ls400, scraper, tires, suspension, es300, porsche, bmw, acura, 300c, chrysler, charger, gto, mustang mitsubishi eclipse evolution offset fitment wheels rub rubbing fix fender stance coilover airbags bags bagged 20's 19's 18's 17's 16's 15's drag rota volk regamaster evo tenzo spoon mugen gramlight gramlights honda acura lexus nissan infiniti infinity VIP deep toyota mazda hyundai g35 g37 350z ls ls400 ls460 gs300 gs400 gs430 mercedes bmw scrape scraping scraper caprice chevy ford lincoln mercury dodge pontiac buick oldsmobile stretched flush import carbon fiber cf 323i, 323ci, 323cic, 325i, 325ci, 325cic, 328i, 328ci, 328cic, 330i, 330ci, 330cic, 318i, 318is, 325is, 328is, M3, E36, E46, e30, bmwcca, Driven Authority, Mattz Garage, motorsport dynamics, race, track, wheels, rims, tires, niello bmw, sacramento, thunderhill, VIP, JDM, Euro, European, drift, hellaflush, flush, PeaceOnes Peace Ones honda integra acura dx ex lx civic si ek eg ek9 coupe b16 ls gsr vtec dohc sohc vtec toyota honda civic accord gas saver dependable must sell cheap drift vtech corolla mpg honda, accord, civic, integra, prelude, EG, EK, acura, nissan, sentra, altima, cheap car, cars, automobile, two 2 door JDM, H22, H22a, Prelude, CB7, Inspire, VTEC, 2.2, hatchback camry toyota sentra altima nissan prelude integra accord honda acura integra ls rs gs type r civic dx cx ex hx lxsi crx hf del sol oem jdm da da 9 da6 db dc dc2 ef ef8 ef9 eg eg6 motorswap vtec turbo rota rims , eg6, ek, civic, accord, mini me, race, blitz, sparco, bride, tein, coilover, skunk2, 300zx, toyota, mitsubishi, accord,prelude,type r honda, civic, eg, jdm, usdm, type r, coupe , hatch, integra, gsr, swap Chevy, Truck, C101967 NOS, nitrous, gts jdm wheels, jdm, enkei, bbs, mesh, drift,steelies, blackies, touge, toyota, ae86, ae 86, trueno, levin, gts, 4age, 4agzecivic si accord jdm type r body kit rsx s2000 ap1 ap2 ap toyota evo8 gst sr20detc5 racing hart ad r volk racing rota slipstream slaw b18 b16 b18c5 vortex vortech jackson racing greddy cusco carboy injen gd8 gdb ej20 ej25 s202 s203 s204 22b version rev GE GH GR k24 h22a k20 ej20 s2kmagnaflow blitz hks hid catz wingwest ae86 240sx ka24de ka24 e kaaz, spoon,JDM,EK9,da6,eg,civic,HB,honda,acura,turbo, integra type-R AcuraIntegra LS GS Honda Civic lx,dx,vx cx , sir, Si JDM stockaftermarket hatch hatchback shell chassis rolling parting out partparts OEM swap mini mini-me trade FS for sale trade WTT WTB buy to buyto trade trading buying race power sale sell selling rota gt3 c8 c10slipstream si blades minitruck bagged stockton sacramento las vegasmodesto mugen k20 rsx type-s CIVIC civic integra delsol jdmhonda civicparts hatchback parts buddy club 2 acura integra ls grs ex lx dx cx rsk20 d16 b16 b18 d15 d16y8 momo ls mesh del sol rims blades itr integratype r hon das buddy club2 rsx adr greddy turbo jackson racing jl audiomtx kicker amps subs cars aem blitz auto meter dc sports ground controlHKS injen koni neuspeed s13 s14 s15 nissan sr20det rb25det si dx ex lxhonda type r vtec del sol scion xb xa tc rsx type s tl cl rl r skylines2000, crx, sir, jdm, spoon, , b16, b18, h22, ls, lsd, ef8, ef9, eg,ek, dc2, dc5, itr, ctr, gsr, turbo, , delsol, hatchback, jspec,integra, ecu, , acura, blitz, tein, kei, drift, drifting, rims, wheels,tires, turbo kit, camber, ka24de, ka24e, recaro, momo, sparco, ractive,tenzo-r, boost, gts, tokico, neuspeed, intercooler, nismo, 5 zigen,apexi, axis, bomex, bride, c west, razo, comptech, dc, sport, eibach,enkei, gab, h&r, hella, hks, Jackson racing, k&n, kaminari, momo, msd, piaa, racing hart, skunk2, option2, evo, tanabe, trust,greddy, veilside, vis, volk, work, godspeed god speed project, xa, xb, Subaru, supercharger,lancer, aem, usdm, swap, nos, gt, lip, ssr, sir, ser, se-r, Mugen,dohc, vtec rsr rs-r rs*r greddy trust apexi coil over sprint jdmSR20DET, skyline, niss an toyota, corolla, gts, civic, EG6, hatchback,starlet, kp61, kp60, trd, 2t-ge, 4a, ae86, ae85, si, 240sx, nissan,honda, civic, accord, turbo, b16, b16a, b18, type, stock, rota, rims,watanabe, bride, recaro, acura, bmw, mitsubishi, nissan, scion, vw,volkswagen, integra, rsx, tsx, crx, prelude, tl, mdx, crv, skyline, 240sx, 350z, 300zx, classic, socal, old school, swap, trade, nismo,neuspeed, k&n, spoon, project car, torc, toysport, altima, maxima,xa, xb, rx7, rx8, supra, celica, mr2, wrx, civic, a6, 330ci, 325ci,323ci, m3, evo, wrx, s2000, 350, sports, fast, rotary,lsd, drift, rearwheel,rwd, S2000, MR-2, Subaru, wrx, impreza s13 s14 s15 240 sx zenkikouki sr20det sr20 Silvia skyline, mazda, mitsubishi, nissan, scion,vw, volkswagen, integra, rsx, tsx, crx, prelude, tl, crv, skyline,240sx, 350z, 300zx, infinity,gsr, gt, honda crx civic integra acurafiber intake exhaust rice celica toyota matrix corolla accord mugen jdmusdm turbo intercooler supercharger blow off valve vtec dx si lx exspecial edition rsx hood integra civic honda acura gsr ls si ex dxturbo type r ctr jdm parts itr turbo supercharger nitrous nos zexexpress aem comptech skunk2 mugen benen dc spoon rota cams headersexhaust ground control jdm apex stock coilovers shocks struts strut bartokico greddy valve volk greddy hasport uberdata p28 p72 p06 chromehondata msd konig koni yokohoma Krusty falken azeni azenis block bseries, b-series b18c1 b18b d-series, d series intake injen catback catcatalytic bumper hood fender door carbon fiber aluminum momo dsm brakesslotted brembo rotors control arm camber kit lowering springs 5 ZigenA-Spec Krustee Tuning Aasco AC Autotechnic ACT Acura AEM mugenmazdaspeed blitz AMG type-R type R 5zigen tanabe GTR GT-R HKS Tom's TomWRX STI EVO Evolution 4g63t 4b11t ct9a cza4 version 2.5 RS-R RSR M azda3 Mazda6 Mazda8 RX7 RX-7 3 6 8 RX8RX-8 Nissan 350z infiniti 350gt g35 toyota corolla camery accord xB bBxA scion TC AE86 trueno drift racing race bucket harness seat turbosupercharge supercharger mustang dodge srt-4 ricer street rsx bride5zigen volk volks toyota racing mr2 240sx 240z 260z 280z 300zx 350znismo drift drifting dorifto, tires, falken, jdm, rota, TOYO, DUNLOP cl integra jdm legend nsx rl rsx tl tsx vigor lucerne regal riviera cts seville aveo beretta camaro caprice cavalier cobalt corsica corvette hhr impala lumina malibu maxx monte carlo prizm 300c hemi cirrus concorde lebaron pt cruiser sebring lanos leganza nubria avenger caliber charger colt intrepid magnum neon shadow stratus viper talon contour crown victoria escort focus zx3 zx5 zx4 fusion mustang gt probe taurus thunderbird metro storm accord civic crx del sol fit prelude s2000 accent elantra sonata tiburon g20 g35 i30 q45 impulse rio sephia spectra ES lexus is ls sc lincolnJDM, RWD, RHD, race, cage, 240sx, s13, s14, s15, g35, 300zx, 350z, lexus, nissan, toyota, wheels, rims, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, honda, civic, accord, scion, tc, xb, xa, sc300, ls400, scraper, tires, suspension, es300, porsche, bmw, acura, 300c, chrysler, charger, gto, mustang mitsubishi eclipse evolution offset fitment wheels rub rubbing fix fender stance coilover airbags bags bagged 20's 19's 18's 17's 16's 15's drag rota volk regamaster evo tenzo spoon mugen gramlight gramlights honda acura lexus nissan infiniti infinity VIP deep toyota mazda hyundai g35 g37 350z ls ls400 ls460 gs300 gs400 gs430 mercedes bmw scrape scraping scraper caprice chevy ford lincoln mercury dodge pontiac buick oldsmobile stretched flush import carbon fiber cf 323i, 323ci, 323cic, 325i, 325ci, 325cic, 328i, 328ci, 328cic, 330i, 330ci, 330cic, 318i, 318is, 325is, 328is, M3, E36, E46, e30, bmwcca, Driven Authority, Mattz Garage, motorsport dynamics, race, track, wheels, rims, tires, niello bmw, sacramento, thunderhill, VIP, JDM, Euro, European, drift, hellaflush, flush key words: honda, accord, civic, toyota, tercel, corolla, camry, nissan, sentra, contour, escort, mystique, economy key words: Passat, VR6, jetta, turbo, integra, honda, nissan, infiniti, bmw, golf, VW, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, toyota, acura, civic, maxima, camry key words: Passat, VR6, jetta, turbo, integra, honda, nissan, infiniti, bmw, golf, VW, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, toyota, acura, civic, 2000, 1999, 1998, 1997, 1996, 1995, maxima, camry Key words: honda civic, ex lx dx civil sivic acura integra accord ex lx dx civil sivic acura integra accord 2001 2002 2003 ondacivic,integra accord 2001 2002 2003 ondacivic, ex lx dx civil sivic acura integra ex lx dx civil sivic acura integra accord 2004 2005 . sf46t354ytg f htry 54geg retgretsivic acura integra accord ex lx dx civil sivic acura 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accord prelude type r honda civic eg jdm usdm type-r coupe hatch integra gsr swap seat seats parts keyword:civic crx b16 b18a b18 b18c1 b18c5 rota rsx integra DA ef eg ek hx rims si rims gsr blades ls distributer distributor rota rotor free aem injen akimoto parts works obx hatchback honda acura integra ls rs gs gsr type r civic dx cx ex hx lx si crx hf del sol oem jdm da da9 da6 db dc dc2 ef ef8 ef9 eg eg6 motor swap vtec turbo rota rims eg6 ek civic accord mini me race blitz sparco tein coilover skunk2 300zx toyota mitsubishi accord prelude type r honda civic eg jdm usdm type-r coupe hatch integra gsr swap seat seats parts integra da dc eg ek ep ef eg eg6 ek9 ek6 b16 b16b b16a b16a1 b16a2 b16a3 b18 b18b b18a b18a1 b18b1 b18c b18c1 b18c5 yellow blue red hrsth back front headlights grill imports 2003 2004 2005 hasport jdm wtt wtb wanted crv crx type rsx cx vx lx hx dx ex gs rs ls gsr lsr rs si sir sirg wanted prelude accord transmission eg ef ek em ep civic integra del sol s2000 s2k 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civic, accord, mini me, race, blitz, sparco, tein, coilover, skunk2,300zx,toyota,mitsubishi,accord,prelude,type r honda, civic, eg, jdm,usdm, type r, coupe , hatch, integra, gsr, swap NOS, nitrous, gts jdm wheels, jdm, enkei, bbs, mesh, drift, donuts, donut, steelies, blackies, touge, toyota, ae86, trueno, levin,civic si accord jdm type r rsx s2000 toyota evo8 gst Location: Sac, Rancho Cordova Key Words: Altima, Sedan, Mid-size, SE, GLE, SL, Sentra, Accord, Sedan, I-30. blades ls distributer distributor rota rotor free aem injen akimoto parts works obx hatchback honda acura integra ls rs gs gsr type r civic dx cx ex hx lx si crx hf del sol oem jdm da da9 da6 db dc dc2 ef ef8 ef9 eg eg6 motor swap vtec turbo rota rims eg6 ek civic accord mini me race blitz sparco tein coilover skunk2 300zx toyota mitsubishi accord prelude type r honda civic eg jdm usdm type-r coupe hatch integra gsr swap seat seats parts keyword:civic crx b16 b18a b18 b18c1 b18c5 rota rsx integra DA ef eg ek hx rims si rims gsr blades ls distributer distributor rota rotor free aem injen akimoto parts works obx hatchback honda acura integra ls rs gs gsr type r civic dx cx ex hx lx si crx hf del sol oem jdm da da9 da6 db dc dc2 ef ef8 ef9 eg eg6 motor swap vtec turbo rota rims eg6 ek civic accord mini me race blitz sparco tein coilover skunk2 300zx toyota mitsubishi accord prelude type r honda civic eg jdm usdm type-r coupe hatch integra gsr swap seat seats parts integra da dc eg ek ep ef eg eg6 ek9 ek6 b16 b16b b16a b16a1 b16a2 b16a3 b18 b18b b18a b18a1 b18b1 b18c b18c1 b18c5 yellow blue red hrsth back front headlights grill imports 2003 2004 2005 hasport jdm wtt wtb wanted crv crx type rsx cx vx lx hx dx ex gs rs ls gsr lsr rs si sir sirg wanted prelude accord transmission eg ef ek em ep civic integra del sol s2000 s2k rsx accord gsr type r itr ctr vtec v tec honda acura blades ls mesh rota volk 4 lug 5 lug b16 b18 h22 h23 b20 k20 d16 d15 b series h series d series turbo all motor eg ek da ef crx dc2 dc5 dc em ej ap1 f20 prelude jdm edm ukdm doch soch aem mugen spoon sports recaro tein defi rsr hid fat fives amber fit swap hfp act sparco exedy nsx sport max konig tire ssr 5zigen greddy hks apexi n1 gt si sir sir2 brembo msd skunk2 acura, honda, jdm, da, dc, db, ek, eh, eg, bb, ef, civic, crx, del sol, prelude, b16, b18, h22, vtec, ls/vtec 4 trade trading buying race power sale sell selling rota gt3 c8 adsga c10 Location: sac area it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

I've used GMB U-joints. They work well, but are not as high quality as the Nissan or Spicer u-joints.

Thanks Pyro. How long did you run it, and did you do any road or track racing with it? Here is a very good thread on the matter, and was the source of my previous post: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132598&highlight=turbo+liner http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127846 On the P79's that I have seen, it appears that the liner is looking like the ceramic (or whatever it is) coating is coming off. This is on junkyard heads that were in N/A service. I v'e found the same to be true on my MN47 head. Will it work? Yes. How long? I suspect it depends on the application and the use of the right foot.

I believe the exhaust liners do not withstand the increased exhaust temps. One bit of liner comes off of and the turbine would most likely take damage. I would say go for it on any non-linered head, which excludes the P79 and N47 heads. I am not certain at what threshold this could be a problem, so perhaps someone with some more experience on turbo installs on P79's will chime in. secondly "cammed" usually means lots of overlap, Overlap does not work well with Turbocharged engines. I don't think it's the right head for what you want to do, I would pass on it myself.

The old timers way to remember firing order: 15 - 36 - 24, in other words: Too young, Too old, just Right. Now if we were to regrind the cam we could have the following: 12 - 36 - 54 - hrm.. no that ain't doing it for me. 15 - 46 - 23 - Yep there's a possibility there... 12 - 46 - 53 - no good options here either. Have fun arguing your preferences..

It just sounds like a backfire through the intake to me. If it's just that, not much to be worried about, just get it running good and it should go away.

http://www.corvette-restoration.com/.../Timing101.pdf There is a couple of errors in the above article, but there is also some good information in it as well. I'll point out what I know to be either partially correct or wrong as well as try to explain how it ties back to detonation, and how to avoid it. First: "Fuel/Air Mixture and “Burn Rate”: At idle and steady cruising speed, the load on the engine is low, and the air-fuel mixture is “lean” (more air/less fuel); when accelerating, the load on the engine is higher, and it’s fed a “rich” air-fuel mixture (more fuel/less air). These are two very different conditions, as a lean mixture burns relatively slowly, and a rich mixture burns faster. Remember this distinction – it’s a key factor in ignition timing." There is an ideal mixture which provides the fastest burn rate, I've read that is at 11:1, but the fuel is going to dictate that. Above and below that point the flame front travels slower. So the statement is partially true. In other words if your engine is running on the pingy side, just lean it out, and slow down the burn? He is right it's a key factor, but the partial information is a disservice when we are talking about blowing headgaskets and managing KPA / RPM. the reason I am beating on this is: Adding fuel to a slightly lean mixture with too much timing can increase the burn rate. Increasing the burn rate will cause peak cylinder pressure to arrive sooner, increasing the chance of detonation. To have adding fuel effective in combating detonation, you would need to move the AFR to a place that has a burn rate slower than where you are now, which means you need to know your AFR at the point of failure. Otherwise playing with fuel and timing is just guessing. This of course is ignoring that richer mixtures will be more detonation resistant. Regardless in your tuning experience, I would surmise that you learned that the increased detonation resistance of the added fuel did not outweigh the increased burn rate, and timing settings. Detonation happens at given pressure/temperature for a specific air fuel mixture (variables=octane and AFR), when this line is crossed too early in the combustion cycle, things break. Secondly: " as upward piston speed increases with rpm, effectively shortening the time for the compression stroke, the spark has to fire sooner, as the air/fuel mixture still takes the same amount of time to burn as it does at lower rpm. " The issue with this is that the burn rate increases with RPM. The article is dead wrong. The flame front travel speed increases as engine RPM increases at a volumetric efficiency. The rate of change is not 1:1 with engine RPM, but it's not very far behind it. To illustrate, if the combustion process at WOT at 600 rpm burns the entire mixture in 150*(just a random figure) of crank rotation that works out to .041 seconds. At 5000 rpm 1 degree of rotation is .0000333333 seconds. If the fuel burns at the same rate (.041 seconds) regardless of RPM then the combustion process would be complete in 1250 degrees of rotation (once again at 5k rpm). Another way of saying the same thing is that at 150* degrees of rotation only 12% of the intake charge has been consumed at 5k rpm. (actually it's less than this but I wont take the time to explain why). If only 12% of the charge has combusted, then cylinder pressures are not high enough to make the engine run, let alone "support" detonation. Now how do I know this? 1. Mathmatically it's impossible knowing how much power engines produce, and a few calculations based on a constant burn rate. 2. In the 1950's GM engineers wanted to watch the combustion process, as their math did not add up when they were ASSUMING the burn rate was constant. So with their then unlimited budget, they cast lenses into pistons, placed a mirror and window in a modified pan and filmed the process with a high speed camera. They watched the combustion process from the pistons perspective. What did they learn? 1. Burn rate increases with RPM. 2. Burn rate increases with increased quench, turbulence as they called it. We studied these videos (and corresponding documents) in college for MPG competition vehicles. The types of vehicles we were building were in the 3000 - 4500 mpg range. To attain those numbers one must understand the combustion process from beginning to end. Failure to understand and your scratching your head as to why you just lost 1500 mpg. Mechanical advance is not there to ensure maximum power at WOT, it is there to retard the timing at lower RPM's so you don't blow head gaskets or blow holes in pistons below ~3k RPM. Think of timing this way: Based on the engine mechanical design and AFR, 1: At what timing is PEAK power safely obtained? 2: At what timing is peak torque at 600 RPM WOT safely obtained? The difference between the two is the ideal mechanical advance. Please note that I am purposely omitting things like driveability, vaccume advance, chamber design and the like. What I am explaining is the basic principle of mechanical advance, aka Low RPM retard. This relationship of burn rate (fuel mixture) and timing is all about managing chamber pressures and temperatures from the start of the ignition event until all fuel is consumed during the combustion process. The game is how close can we get to the line without crossing it like the original poster did. Not only how close we can get to it at one point, but how closely can we stay to it from just below idle to red line. It's a really fun game, until you cross the line, at which point it becomes more educational, rather than fun. The last point is around the tuning of light load conditions. When managing chamber pressures and temperatures, it's possible to advance ignition timing because at light loads there is not enough pressure in the chambers due to those troublesome throttle plates blocking all the air flow. With this lack of airflow (from the chambers perspective, density) it's impossible for chamber pressures to get very high. To take advantage of this it's possible to increase temperatures (leaning it out) and adding timing without detonation risks. Remember detonation is caused by a combination of temperature and pressure. Since pressure is no longer a player in detonation, increase the timing, and decrease the ratio to get the temps up so the process can build what pressure it can. Just a few links: http://pcwww.liv.ac.uk/~goodhew/Student%20webs/Turtle%20AMAC/Amac/Flashversion/CombustionProcess.htm http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=170270

Pay attention to the frequency of the sound in relation to the engine speed. This helps isolate the noise to the reciporcating assy, rotating assy, valve train, or timing chain/tensioners. Check the basics, oil pressure, contaminates in oil (steel, aluminum, brass), compression test, Check for broken valve springs. Good luck.

When exposed to that much heat the metal in the gasket will deform. When a gasket fails between cylinders like this, during the combustion process the high pressure of the firing cylinder forces very hot and burning gasses to the adjacent cylinder. To give you an idea of the temps involved, NOX starts forming in combustion process at about 2500*F. Detonation starts above that point, How much above I don't know.. At 4000 RPM the failed section of the gasket was seeing 4000 pulses of 2500*F gases being forced through it per minute. You are seeing the result of the failure, not the cause. Notice the discoloration at the break point, and that after .5" it returns to normal color. The gases being forced through the gap is still in the combustion process, which means there's still quite a bit of oxygen in the mix. High temps + Oxygen + material = rapidly burning material. Steel burns just fine with high temps and Oxygen. Paul's analogy of a blowtorch is not an exaggeration. How long was the car run after the gasket blew?

The claim I have heard is that certain cutting tools last 200 to 400% longer when Cryo treated. This does not mean it reduces friction. As John pointed out an increase in abrasion resistance does not mean reduced friction, it means the part wears less as a result of friction. Wikipedia has a somewhat informative article on it. I've read better though.

Another option is a thread chaser set, it's not a tap and die set, but made specifically for cleaning up threads. Craftsman 40 pc. Tap and Die Set, Master Rethreader For a list of the fulfilling retailer(s) to your MyGofer pickup location, click here. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952105000P?mv=rr I've had this kit for about 5 years, and I've used it many many times. Quality is good. There has been a time or 2 where the threads are severly damaged that it has required a tap, but if you can get a bolt threaded in the hole in the first place, this set is the way to go in my opinion. I've used the thread files as well, they came in handy cleaning up the threads on a stub axle when the locking nut came off while driving.

Stock works just fine. None of the slave cylinders were adjustable, only the linkage was. There are minor differences between the years, for example early z's had the adjustable linkage rod and a ear cast into the slave housing for the return spring. Later cylinders do not have this feature. You can also buy a rebuild kit, this is what I did for my 83, the kits from Rock auto are less than 5$. -Robert

I know the CSR pumps for the LT1's flow less at max RPM, but not far behind the LT1 pump. The main advantage is the increased flow rate at idle. I considered an electric pump on my 94 impala (LT1) but that was because the LT1's tend to eat up water pumps, and it's a big job on that motor. So for the LT1's its more of a maintenance thing than the 5 or so HP gain to be had. With the Lseries motor, the pumps are very reliable, cheap, and easy to replace. I see less of a need for them on these cars. It is a cool mod though. One advantage is you can leave the pumps run with the fans on with the engine off to cool it down to min operating temperature. I don't know why I find that so entertaining.

A high amp alternator is useless if it cannot sustain the output. I bought a hi amp bolt in alternator, the first time it was put under a serious load it died. The particular unit was a Z specialities 120 amp unit. I was less than impressed to say the least. Zmanco, An alternator will not hold it's rated output very long. If you need 100 amps to run, in reality the alternator must be rated at 140 or so amps. If you throw in a 30 amp stereo system, then it's easy to justify an alternator to 200 amps. Is it overkill? Yes.

Use with caution! All of the miracle wheel cleaners I have seen have been acid based. While acid based cleaners do work very quickly, they tend to eat up the aluminum finish over a long period of time. This is because the aluminum still has a small amount of the acid left in the wheels finish, be it bare aluminum, or some sort of coating. Over time this continues to rapidly oxidize the finish, and in severe cases, scar the aluminum. Look at the MSDS sheet, and it should tell you the PH level. Make sure the acid is neutralized, even after a through rinse. Calcium works well for this. If your wondering where to get calcium, milk has plenty in it. Yes, I just suggested you wash your rims with milk. milk, it does a wheel good.

These are 1 off design, I don't intend on producing them. I think Darth's solution is better, just drill the seat frame rail and the chassis to match. I think it was 7$ in steel I had to buy. about 2 hours fab time... I'm not going to make another set, I ended up drilling more holes in the car using them, than doing the other method.

I finally took pictures of the L shaped brackets I welded up. Here they are: If I were to do this over again, I would have mounted the fronts similar to what DarthZ did and just drill a new hole in the seat frame rail At the time I did not want to swiss cheeze my car, but I think I'm over that now.. I may revisit the mounting of these seats, and lower them similar to what darth had suggested. For now though, they work great.

I had the toyota calipers with 300zx rotors setup and I ended up going back to stock because of the proportion being too far off. At the time I was running the 280zx calipers in back. Another major strike against the toyota setup is the weight.

Was the car ever set up as a circle track car?

If it's too long it will constantly be as if you had the clutch pedal partially pressed in. While this does not sound too bad, a throwout bearing failure is just a matter of time. if its off by quite a bit you clutch would be constantly slipping or no engagement at all. You would notice the latter when installing the trans as you would be pulling the engine/trans together with the bolts as the pressure plate springs would be pushing the trans backwards due to the collar sticking too far forward. Are you sure the clutch fork is properly engaging the tabs on the throwout bearing?

The older flywheel/clutch assemblies are longer from the crank mounting surface to where the throwout bearing rides on the pressure plate fingers. I believe it's just the pressure plate, not the flywheels that are different. To compensate for this, nissan used longer clutch collars to get the throwout bearing within the right distance to actuate the pressure plate.

Another method of measuring is to assemble your old flywheel/clutchdisk/pressure plate and measure from the crank mounting surface to the fingers on the pressureplate. Then measure the new setup in the same manner. The difference between the two will tell you if you need to get a new collar. chances are the new setup is thinner from the crank to pressure plate fingers. Just for clairity the "fingers" are the springs in the pressure plate, the things that the throwout bearing rides on when the clutch is disengaged. Hope that helps. -Robert

Quit guessing and measure it! Take a straight edge across the bell housing and measure the distance from the throwout bearing surface to the bellhousing surface. Then measure the distance from the fingers on the pressure plate to the mounting surface of the back of the engine. If you have more than a few millimeters, you have the wrong clutch collar. On ACT clutches, they warn you when installing on 240z's that you must get a 280zx clutch collar due to the different position of the pressure plate. This being a KA, I don't know what the length is, but by searching or measuring the clutch collar that your currently have, you can know the difference. Best regards, Robert