steveosupremeo

Nice find! good luck with the build, its lots of fun!

unless one of the pics is a flipped image the dimples on the outer bore and the spots on the inner bore are opposite of where they should be in respect to up and down, if you caused damage.

i've used one on a 280zx and it was very quiet, i just finished it off with a borla rolled tip and it was 2.25.

i know this is an older thread but I have a carbed L20A and from what I can tell the cam is stamped "L". its a 1974 model fairlady. Does ANYONE know the specs on this cam??

its a Kameari adjustable tensioner and they also make an adjustable sprocket. as far as head bolt thread loss, 0.075 is less than 2 mm and would equal to about half a turn and probably wouldn't be issue at all with ARP studs. As far as goodson I did this work for you a few months ago, they do NOT make them or have them in stock any longer, they said they felt their product was inferior. This sounds like BS to me, I'm sure they just didn't see enough profit to continue making them. They recommended a company by the name of SilverSeal out of michigan or wisconsin or something and they can get them. OOOORRRR...look up the guy called Datsun Parts on Ebay and contact him about a set. He sells the Pioneer ones. they are also 0.015 each. I actually had to have two sets for my P90a. gives my turbo motor with 0.040 pistons a CR of about 7.9:1 with a nissan gasket.

nissan gasket is 1.2, felpro is 1.0 -thats after compression of course.

i used the msd pump with mine. runs great, pretty quiet, summit has them for about $95, rated at 500 HP.

i'm running 10 psi with the stock 83 regulator

hahahahaahaaaa!!!!!! that is so true, they are a good site but a question is asked and answered a thousand times over there. haven't been in quite some time myself, lol

gonna need a bigger turbo for 500+ whp...i'd build for that from the start, otherwise you'll be building a 300hp motor, then selling stuff to build a 400hp motor, then again for 500...just build the big boy from the start, just don't drive it in the rain...hope you have a good job too.

you are probably right in the fact that I may need new valves as well, i can just barely wiggle a few of the valves in the guides...maybe not really wiggle, but can feel a clearance from side to side. its using oil/smoking blue smoke and i found oil puddled on the back side of the intake valves that were closed upon removing the intake manifold. i figured it must be draining down even after shut down. i was using the ford viton seals at first and was hoping they were leaking really bad. I replaced those with the felpro datsun seals after about 350 miles of driving. It was actually a little better, but when replacing, thats when i found i could feel the clearance in the guides. if the wallet permits a guy on ebay sells the stainless SI valves for about $175 for the p90 and thats only about $50 more than stock ones from black dragon. Of course that is probably still overkill but it sounds cool to say you have stainless valves, lol.

just use 5 shims. 0.075 is close enough. whatever material is ground off of the back of the valve or seat during the valve job is likely to be a 0.001 or so, which brings it even closer. i know bubbleguinnea used 5 of the 0.015 shims to do this setup.

the original was 100% stainless, as Jeffer stated above. IIRC it was 304 and you could get it polished, plain, or wrapped. personally I have $100 in my stainless downpipe, just ordered the parts and gearheadstik welded.

well i searched but didn't find anything on this really.... I'm needing some new valve guides for my P90...Black Dragon offers a standard guide which i'm guessing is cast iron or something similar and a premium guide out of manganese-bronze. Does anyone know what the stock guides are made of? The stock ones seemed to last a good long time but I dunno if one or the other is ideal for a turbo motor??

pioneer makes 0.015 shims for L series, i have them on mine.

i remember reading on here somewhere that a girl with one of those GTO250 bodied S30 cars had said you could flip the stock rack over because she ran into that delima. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105854&highlight=RHD+steering+rack her name is Chelle and she says you just need to disassemble the rack and put it together in the RHD formation. Sounds a great deal easier than adding an SX rack to me.

very nice job man!

flip your stock one over.

maybe i need to just flip the original around. i wound up using a cog body that i found that had the retaining slot on the same side as the sx and seemed to have the right offset but it must have not been close enough...or something is up with the speedo cable. i've got several cogs and cog bodies laying around. i'll check on it. but yeah, i've thought about doing the autometer electronic because it doesn't matter what cog you have in there, or if you change rear ends because you can just recal. it. the guy at autometer said it should work with the ka sender as well. but its $200 compared to $120 for the mechanical.

hmmm....mine didn't seem to work. the gear on the sx tranny is bigger and and z gear doesn't seem to be meshing with it. might have to try somethng different.

mine and Aaron's studs aren't exactly based on how hard you can make an 8 x 1.25 stud but rather how much surface area of aluminum do you have on that 8 mm stud?? except for the center 3 studs for the turbo manifold, the rest are 10x1.25 like the top 4 intake bolts. i use 350z exhaust studs i believe. with very wide seated self locking nuts. no issues with stripping and improved surface area on the stud in the head so i can crank on them a bit harder and seal that gasket up nice. i think the studs are 10.9, not the highest but damn good and haven't rusted at all. and because of the wide nuts, no washers are needed! i probably have enough studs and washers for about 2 more sets but its not for the faint of heart. mine started because i had a "notsoeasyout" broken in a broken stud at the end, same one you are describing Gabe, and had to drill through the bolt around the broken extractor and hit some aluminum because the machine shops wouldn't touch it. got it out but had to put in a bigger stud. decided to drill them all out and tap them bigger. i'll probably do it on every motor from hear out. i think Aaron likes his and has good luck with some ARPs in the center as well.

old RayJay kit for NA uses that adapter, pop up on ebay every so often.

i'm using the same one as Gabe, it really is a perfect fit for the S30 front end! 20" core i believe, 12" tall, 3" thick, 2.5 in and out.

Doesn't give added stroke, just a different rod to stroke ratio.

also the L28et didn't make it into a z until 81. 81-83 have same block, different pistons as long as it is stamped F54. N42 is your early L28 block. 75-80 L28 = 135 hp, 81-83 na l28 = 145 hp. 81-83 turbo like they said is 180 hp. the difference in the two NA blocks is a bump in compression from 8.3-8.8 when you are looking for where the 10 HP comes in. a result of a flat top piston substitute in the block and a slightly higher volume combustion chamber in the head. the exhaust runners on the P90 don't actually flow any better than the steel linered heads, but the liners don't stand up well to turbo exhaust temps according to braap and as we know, they can't be ported for later mods. all you can do is smooth the aluminum transition after the seat. the real advantage in stock form would be the full circular intake ports instead of the D shaped ports found in the P79/N47 heads. probably not as noticeable on a turbo being it is pressurized though.