steveosupremeo

i'm using a 240mm flywheel and a 280zx turbo clutch with my KA swap in progress. dunno what years 240sx clutches fit, i know a lot of them were 225mm, not sure if there were any 240mm...maybe 89-90? not sure, thats why i'm just gonna go with an ACT for 280zx turbo.

you will use the KA input shaft bearing but you'll be swapping over the z counter shaft bearing to the KA counter shaft.

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how long of a braided line do you generally need?

that thing sounds awesome! and i'm the only tech in my shop with a blue toolbox too, lol.

flange is really thin.

hey tony, what was the aspect ratio of the tire, the 215 width doesn't tell me much without at least knowing the wheel diameter and aspect ratio/sidewall height...60 series?

well, as soon as i'm done with the turbo build i'll have a ceramic coated 3 into 2 header, round port. the cam is only one step above stock. have a couple of stock intake manifolds. a complete working 77 dizzy. got a set of 86 mm flat tops but i need the rods attached to them, lol. hmmm...maybe i should be asking you what in particular you are looking for...oh..i do have a set of 14x6 enkies (silver mesh) with a +15 offset that i was running on my 77 before i went to 6 spokes, they had been trued and straightened with no warpage or rash before i got them and they still look good. oh and original enkie centers for them. they weigh about 12-13lbs each, same as 6 spokes. i have a set of 12 hydraulic lifters in good shape. like i said, let me know what you want and i might have it. oh...also have a new in box clevite cam that is stock grind. just let me know.

i might have more but here is what i have off the top of my head... complete set of 72 3 screw SUs with air cleaner and manifolds, a brand new comp cams bumpstick (268 duration with 420 lift, not a regrind and low lift for use with stock lash pads), and two un-modified SVO brown top injectors. if interested in any of that let me know, i probably have some more stuff i can part with but will need to take a look. thanks, Stephen

got any left? still looking for trades?

wow man, talk about getting people motivated, that car is beautiful, and great deal on the wheels!!

ooops, nevermind, just read the answer to my question about the base plates. what do you mean beta program? didn't see it mentioned on the website...

so are they made to bolt up to a webber/cannon/mikuni runner setup or is there a spacer/adapter to do that with? life is good Kevin. looks like you've been very busy lately, lol. sounds great in the video by the way

you are definitely right that most people don't want to do that but, mine started with just doing the outside studs but i figured i wanted to be able to torque them down evenly. and using grade 10.9 on the 3 in the middle. managed to find lock nuts to fit all of them. i did see one of your kits at SEZ pallnet. looked alright. i like the 10 mm though because there isn't as much room for the manifold to move when you set it up on the head to bolt on. especially if i go external wastegate with a holset i want the extra strength.

mmmmmmmmmm.....shiny.....hehe...thanks for the insight Paul, i also have a P79 laying around that i haven't really studied much. might have to take a peek at it. right here lately though i robbed the nice clean valves off of it for my P90a head whose valves were so nasty i decided to scrap. used the time serts for solid lifters and used JB weld in the oiling holes. and its not easy getting that stuff to drip down in those tiny holes but it was about 85 degrees so it did thankfully, lol. also i enjoyed those links myself. thanks, Stephen

Hey Kevin. i didn't know you were in destin! this is Stephen with the yellow 280z, i met you and Craig at the autocross in newton several months back. i was with my friend Bobby with the orange 240z. maybe you remember me. i know i remember your car. didn't it have white side stripes on it then? i might be interested in the ITBs for my turbo motor i'm building right now.

what transmission will you be using Brian?

i want to drive that beast, lol!

no, GM stuff is pretty much metric these days. those arp studs are definitely nice looking. i wound up tapping all of mine out to 10x1.25 except for the middle three and used manifold nuts from a 350z that have the big flat washer incorporated into them for my turbo project. works very nice and you can put a good bit of torque on them without worrying of pulling threads in the head.

Paul, doesn't the P79 also have the "D" shape in the intake ports? on a Maxima N47 i noticed this and used a dremel to make a smoother transition where it humps up. i also noticed the step in the roof on the exhaust port of the P90a i'm working with and was wondering why that was even cast there. if i do any porting for the turbo setup i'm going with it will be to grind that down.

kameari makes a very good one. and a tensioner to go with it. if you see one on ebay you better bid to win or someone else will, go very fast and super adjustable.

hood clearance not an issue, easiest way to add injectors is cut the end of the runners off of a z manifold and port them to match, then cut the flange end off of the diesel manifold and weld up the bung flange to the manifold. then have a throttle plate welded up.

hey guys, i have something to say about this, when i started working on my maxima N47 i had a roken stud in the last exhaust hole and instead of just drilling it out like i have before i decided to try the reverse spiral style ez out, didn't work very well for me, just scraped the bolt where i had drilled the pilot hole. then i grabbed one of the square peg style ez outs. felt like it started turning, and it did, turned the ez out right in half. i went into a cussing fit for a long time. called a bunch of machine shops and no one would even look at it. so i went to sears and bought a bunch of the smallest diameter cobalt coated drill bits and me and another tech drilled out around the little extractor until we were able to use a center punch to beat it out with a 2.5lb hammer and grabbed it with the needle nose pliers. we then tapped it to 10x1.25 because of course, like Paul has said, you will mess up some of the aluminum. there was still a very small portion that the tap didn't take care of but its very little and i checked to make sure i could tighten the bolt down good and it was ok. very very frustrating experience. started looking at my p90a and noticed the first and last studs broken off in it. might just tap them all out to 10x1.25, lol

relieves under hood pressure at speed.

check out www.northernautoparts.com, just received a 5x8x14 oval 2.5 in/out satin stainless for $46 plus shipping, better hurry, closeout, also have the 3 in/out.