Daeron

Thanks guys, you've supplied me with ammo that I may or may not need. (Regarding definitive answers on cam tower re use and transplant.)

Get new spark plugs, or at least switch the two bad cylinders out with two good firing cylinders. NGK has been kind enough to keep the price of their base line BPR 6es plugs low enough that a set of spark plugs is NEVER a bad idea, and I am a major cheapskate.

Normally, Tony, I am your semantic argument ally and partner.. but I don't know if I will ever be able to stop calling either one of them "lifters" even if the whole world disregards me for a fool because of it. I could try to justify it by saying that by providing the pivot, the rocker arm ratio is allowed to increase the direct valve lift, thereby increasing or somehow contributing to the job of lifting.. but I'll just be wrong and call them lifters rather than argue

You have NO idea how much that confused me. I hosted that picture for someone who was technically challenged, like, two years ago.. I've never owned a Fiat, nor has anyone in my family.. BUT my dad has a rotting old Alfa Romeo 2600 (brown) and my uncle has several Roadsters in various states (three white and three red if i am not mistaken, but very different looking) We DO have two striking orange S30s, though, that very much resemble the car in the photos. (IIRC, that was part of my motivation to help the guy who had troubles posting his pics..) Anyhow, mystery solved... but MAN what a weird feeling of confusion My screemie-meemie destroked motor may never see the light of day, but like I said I try to take notice of any L20 that a board member should acquire. Shipping from Oz seems stupid to pay, even though the cranks are plentiful down there. What I NEED to do is go on a vacation to Auztralia, or New Zealand....

This Thread--- I love you, HybridZ!!!

A man after my own heart.... Any time I see news of an L20 in the States I try to take note of it, because one of these days, I am going to need a crankshaft....... But to make my post more relevant to the thread, am I crazy or are those runners WICKED tapered?!??? You said they had 40s on them, and they came from an L20, so wicked taper would make sense.. Whats the ID of the head side versus carb side (assume 40mm) of the manifold runner?? Looks FAST

P90 and P90a heads are just... Fun!!! TOTALLY useless post, but I dug through our Pile O' Cylinder heads the other day and discovered 3 P90s (one or two were a's, all were solid lifters or no lifters, heh) and an E31, and so this thread made me smile.

If you are *REALLY* having problems with your oilpan gasket, it really might be best to just get the Hylomar and use it.. Just be careful not to OVER apply it. Chances are either the block surface or your oilpan perimeter are warped or otherwise problematic, and in that situation I would be tempted to get TWO cork gaskets, seal each one up with a good, appropriate RTV sealant, and let them hang up overnight to cure, and THEN apply both gaskets to a CLEAN CLEAN surface (maybe with a thin bead of the RTV added...) and slowly, in steps, 7ft-lbs, to 18 ft lbs, to 25, on up to whatever, just tighten the pan down in the order listed in the book. I haven't tried it; nobody I have suggested it to has tried it, but its an idea I think could be a silver bullet for the situation you are having. It isn't uncommon to have these issues; a nice, cast oilpan sure would be sweet, huh?? Stupid question... You DO have the bars that go between the bolts and the sheetmetal flange, right? I also think that replacing those things can go a country mile in helping to remedy these types of issues.

Good Luck!!! Epic thread

What condition are you looking for? I'm about 90% positive we have multiples, but not sure how hot they look and the photo you posted shows a car being painted, which suggests you might be looking for good to excellent condition. Mine are fair, good for reconditioning at best.

You *do* know that there are oodles of much much newer cars that you can yank the TPS plug off of in the junkyard right? I'd hate to see you waste money if that is an option in your book.

They look like 74-78 panels to me. Someone should be interested in them.. but shipping charges may take a huge bite out of their funds, so you might wind up getting $20 a piece for them in the end. They are certainly worth trying to pass on!! BUT, if you can't get much money into your own pocket for them, don;'t be awfully surprised. It is a matter of timing; is there someone in your area (say, 500 mile radius) that needs them badly enough now? Good luck. If you weren't thousands of miles away I might be interested.

Shpping.... Isn't that what styrofoam is for?? And as for Armor All, I will cut off my thumbs before I use it on my vinyl ever again. The one thing I have an "in" for is detailing supplies (my brother runs a company that blends and packages their own stuff, it is top-notch, and detailing supply is a HUGE business down here) and all I ever use is a dressing they make in house that is called Maarvelous. It looks like someone took Hair Conditioner and diluted it with milk, but it feels like massage oil for leather and vinyl. But if you ask me, Armor All is nasty stuff that eventually dries out your vinyl, leather, and plastic.. unles, of course, you obediently buy a new bottle every six months and keep applying it.

My guess is, you didn't tune the EFI to be clean you tuned it for power and/or economy. What did you do regarding jets, etc? I am not a carb guru, so specifics is not what I am asking (although others probably would, it'd be greek to me) I am asking, did you go with this recommendation, what that guy had in it, or what you put in...? Chances are, there is untapped power in the Weber setup you are running now, and it is running leaner and cleaner as a result than it could be. You are smelling a space for growth, as it were. You were almost certainly dumping extra fuel into the turbo motor to provide some relief to the combustion chamber, right? However, no explanation can defeat the overall point: analog can function just as good as digital.

Blast out the supply and return lines as well, and just replace the fuel filter.

Sorry to have posted the Fail Snail, I don't like being a jerk but I was trying to find a fail picture that conveyed the Oops sufficiently. (plus I thought he was funny as all get-out) To comment on rturbo and johnc's points... I view these cars as MUCH more than "just cars." All of them. But that doesn't stop me from chopping a series 1 into bits because it is too rusty to save. That doesn't make me want to "find a home for" the godawful rusted automatic '72 car "just because its a 72, and you know that was really the best year 240 to get..." You have to draw a line in the pile of rusted steel particles somewhere. A serious doinking of the frame like this is a HUGE straw on the camel's back. That is all John was saying. OP: Good luck with your car. Mine's "past reasonably saving" too; yet I plan on trying as well Just remember not to overly stress a crappy chassis next time. Some of these cars have become like Willow trees, floating in the lateral g-forces the road imposes on them.. when you try to graft oak branches onto them, they just go KLUNK and don't drive straight anymore.

Have you visually inspected your main relay? It is one assembly, two large relays tied together into one box. I am beginning to wonder if the solder on those relays might be old and funky, a la Honda Main EFI relay issues..... Are you familiar with that problem?

Sorry for the troll post, but that is a *sweet* looking race car!!!!!!! Stem to Stern, Tires to paint, she is NICE.

More likely indicative of a bad fuel pump. To check, try pinching off the fuel return line out of the FPR and see if that increases your fuel pressure. If the pressure regulator fails, it usually either allows too much fuel to flow past (and presents you with low fuel pressure) or deadheads, and allows too much pressure. Sometimes they leak, too. Anyhow, if you pinch it off and pressure builds up, then you are right. However, odds are at least 60/40 that it is your fuel pump that is the problem. There's probably about five or ten percent to be fudged there for an "other fuel delivery problem" section.

Since it's so funny...

Idea: get ahold of a nasty old steering wheel or two and strip the insulation off of the steel core, and use them as arcs to form the outlying upper plane. You could cover both sides of the wheel with fiberglass cloth, one side at a time, with bucks or props or whatever the term might be to help give it an approximation of the final shape, and then resin up that side, and then set up any similar inner supports for the opposite side (if two sides need "shaping") and lay a second sheet of glass. BTW, I read the first "wheelie bin" comment and had to go back and review the photos to see if I could guess WTF you were talking about.. I made myself proud Aussies and Kiwis have the best lingo of any English speakers in the world.

I *thought* they were 15s but they're 14x7. If you are at all still interested I'll get you pics, but i can totally understand if you aren't.. we are currently trying to divest ourselves of all 14" wheels that aren't slated for use on a Roadster, so we certainly understand not wanting to have to find tires in that size. (I could give you some thoughts about current availability in performance tire sizes, but that would go on for at least 3 pages, so I will keep my grumpy old man opinions to myself )

Since we're here BSing anyhow, mind if I threadjack so much as to ask if there are much differences between the vg sohc heads? we've got some single cam heads and my brother has a 98 pathfinder with a vg33 and although the context was "no, the heads are almost definitely not warped," we were wondering if the heads would be easily swappable. Short answer is fine

There is no such thing as a 1988 Subaru Legacy... they came out in 1989 and unless I am woefully mistaken, they only sold like, six or seven of them before 1991 model year. (Six or seven is obviously a gross exaggeration, but I am serious, the legacy wasn't really around till MY91.) There IS an 88 Subaru that I would bet my eye teeth on the seats swapping in, given the pre-existing datum of "88 subaru seats." It is called a GL, AKA Loyale or "L-series" or Leone in other parts of the world. Shorthand for the car in web speak is EA82, based on the engine.

This thread has gone all over the place.... I think you need to find another Z. This Z and you seem to have a very rocky relationship, and neither of you seems to know where it is going at any point. Sure, its fun ahh.. driving her, all the time, but are you going anywhere with the car? I'm just saying, *if* she goes for some awful reason.. maybe it was just time to poop or get off the pot.