Daeron

Sounds more serious than a lost balance weight, unless it was a BIG balance weight your tire needed... Get the car up and throw it in neutral and spin the wheel back and forth while listening closely to the hub. Grab the tread of the tire on the top with both hands and shake forwards and backwards with it off the ground and safely supported. Check your nuts and bolts all around the corner. Try finding a bigass pry bar to wedge in various locations forcing stresses in any direction you can summon trying to get something to budge. I would also suggest rotating the tire before driving to a tire shop to have it rebalanced; you may find a dreadful problem in the tread of the tire when you pull it off the car. It just seems like a bit more than one woud typically find from a dropped balance weight... unless I am mis-judging your description.

Thats the only inline four-cylinder I love A large part of that may be because its the only one I have been around extensively (the rest of the I4s in my life have been, wham, bam, thank you cam, and on their merry way.) Is this a customer engine or are you diversifying your Datsuns?

88mm bore and a fairly small-chambered head.... but an e-46 intake manifold? 3 liter with SU's? Did they measure all the ports individually to give you comparisons from cylinder to cylinder?

Nice Work!!! The bad news.... to make em come out REALLY nice, you have to sand them again between each friggin coat. Looks like you're doing an awesome job, though!

Judging from the way you speak of it, this Daytona is of the '80s Dodge variety, I presume??? Not the Shelby, Ferrari, Alfa Romeo, Studebaker, or the Dodge Charger Daytona?

Fixed your post (no offense or "tone" intended)

Awesomeness on a stick, I just couldn't recall if you got a cold weather baseline pressure reading. One of my STRONGEST of my strong points is catching little stupid details that *can* slip through the cracks, and that is all I was trying to do (in addition to making sure *I* wasn't missing or forgetting something; obviously I was.) I am very well aware that the impeller (propeller) shape, size, pitch and number of blades has all SORTS of subtle and varied effects, but I am wholly ignorant of all those subtleties and thier impacts. I still want to say that the anecdotal evidence of hundred of electric water pumpers suggests some hole* in this, somewhere, but I never really thought I would be one of those guys anyway and this thread has almost certainly cemented my opinion on that. *"Some hole" may well be a bunch of track cars using the pump (an the engine equipped with it) in situations that many many of us would call "limited use," which would mean there is NO hole. Years ago, when I was still in school, my teachers always loved me because I asked excellent questions either for anchoring the subject matter in "reality," or expanding the subject matter ever-so-slightly beyond the scope of our present text or curriculum. I definitely also posted my query hoping to see if anyone was around who could school me about it with some encyclopedic post explaining why just about everything I've ever thought was wrong.

(very selective quotation) Ozconnection: I cannot see that this puts electric water pumps to bed. I can see that you failed to generate any pressure similar to that seen under operating conditions in the engine, but were you running the engine at that time? Heat is Power, and Heat pressurizes the coolant of a running engine as much as the restriction on the flow impelled by the pump. I would wager that a significant amount of the "energy" used to get coolant up to pressures seen in operating engines is heat energy and not mechanical energy. You need to measure temperature differences between your engine at various points physical, and load/temp wise, with each setup, as well as radiator inlet/outlet/middle points etc, to make sure no variables are left out when comparing the two side by side to see if one is up to snuff with the other. At least, I seem to think this is insufficient data to simply ignore the anecdotal evidence of countless users of electrical coolant circulation systems. *I* can't see any problem with my reasoning.. am I wrong? Edit: I don't want to crap all over your data collection, ozconnection, nor do I have any "feelings" on the matter to push or reason to say one setup is better than the other. This is just my thoughts on the measurements you've been taking, and I may well be missing part of your point (this *IS* rather an extended conversation to review) so in other words, criticism of my own post is certainly welcomed.

Oh none of that even matters, give me ten minutes with that car and it'd be one fine and dandy track car candidate..... The point is just to cringe!!!

OH THE DP-1!!! crap...

Let's keep it in the Land of the Rising Sun.... #1 - Daily Driver 1975 280Z with a screamin' meemie 12:1 L30 that somehow mystically doesn't mind low octane fuel and ITB's. White. #2 - All Corners Subaru XT-6, preferably with the later 3.3L 6 cylinder based off the EJ22. Black. #3 - High Speed Heaven RB26DETT powered Z32 with a sensible gear ratio. Pearl, or Dark Blue maybe. #4 - Mid or Rear Nissan MID4 Any color that might exist. #5 - Off the Beaten Trail 1983 1/2 King Cab Datsun pickup, 4x4 hi-lo, napsZ24 engine with a Weber DGV. Black. (except, king cab:) #6 - Track Time (track vehicle) Two words: California Coffin!!!! Well, I'd rather Brabham's car, but it's not the same THRILL in a safe car. #7 - WILD CARD 1967 1/2 Datsun 2000 FairLady Roadster. Off-white, with competition package (44 Mikunis and a cam, probly more I am forgetting) Except with Libra mags on it. Those are all different cars, just trying to illustrate the model and the color. With bumper overriders and yellow/amber round fogs, and a hardtop. The hardtop is either left on the car or left in the garage. That's what tonneaus are for.

Car has been reduced to $800. http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/1558977172.html This guy can't GIVE it away!!

Didn't you?

Wow...

The most mind-bogglingly supercool mega-awesome awesome awesome thing *I* saw about that engine was the cam drive/timing system as compared to the accessory drive system. I cannot ruin it for you; you have to go back and look yourself.

One might say it was crazy, or bonkers, or, whats that other one.....

Certainly Not!! My old man has run three different four barrels on his 240 shadetree racecar (390, 650 DP and a 750 IIRC?) but I have my preferences. I just like to make it clear that the stock option is not an immediate junker. A four-barrel is a TOTAL mystery to me; side draft carbs I can grok better. anyone who knows 4 barrels because it is what they grew up with, more power to em. (but yah, you were right on a different level)

Have you considered going to the junkyard on a 4 hour long Dizzy Trek to find out what your part is from??? Wish I could help more, but every little bump helps, right?

Acceptable Logic, to be certain!!!

Look up "z therapy" and visit their website. They have excellent breakdowns on how these carburetors work. A Youtube search will also yield many significant results: SU's are very simple little machines, and everybody who has ever played with them either loves them to death or can't stand them. My opinion is that some people simply aren't made for SU carbs. They operate on a few very simple principles, and have only four moving parts (IIRC: throttle blade, needle assembly, vacuum damper, and float bowl assembly) and are extremely versatile. If you get them, they are almost as useful as a Swiss Army Knife.

If you DO add an electric fuel pump, you can use some thick rubber matting or even tire re-treading to insulate the mounting base and help try to avoid some of the noise transmitting through the chassis. Obviously a tire re-tread is a mega-redneck way to do it, but you get the gist.

From the 260Z FSM available from XenonS30.com: I believe numbers 8 and 9 might be of interest to you.

Oh gawd, I wasn't even considering the Prince motor... Leave me alone

Packing Material Magazine!!!