jt1

Tom, if the seals are in good shape I don't think you'll have a problem. Think when you jack up the front or rear of the car, the oil doesn't run out then, and it's about the same deal. You need to get some air ducted to the cooler... jt

What's the big deal here? There are an infinite number of ways to have an accident. In some instances a certain piece of safety equipment might help, it might have no effect, or it could make things worse. There is no way to predict what might happen. Period. So keep your car in good condition, especially the tires, brakes, and lighting, be alert and aware, and drive defensively. If a piece of safety equipment makes you feel better, use it. It may help, or not, but it's there. John

Cygnus, does the splash pan you're referring to go all the way back to the suspension crossmember? I seem to recall a 76 I had having a undertray in that area. I expect there would be some benefit to it, certainly worth a try. It seems that most of the splitters you see on race cars extend well back towards the front wheels. Forrest, I think John Hines commented on that pic, I'm the other one!!!!! John

We didn't test a factory splash pan. We did test sealing the MSA type 3 airdam back to the radiator support, and it showed a significant improvement. John

http://www.turn1motorsports.com/images/trackdiagrambig.jpg 2.2 miles, 5 straights with more tight turns than sweepers, moderately abrasive surface. John

Been there. At CMP, the Victoracers are a little over a second quicker than the RA-1's on my car, same day. There are lots of variables here, but most people seem to agree, it's just how much is the question. My opinion is that the tires are pretty close on heavier cars, and the Victo's are better on lighter cars. The RA-1's last longer on either type car. I haven't tried any V710's. I would appreciate Kuhmo making them in the size I run. John

Works for me, no problems. jt

For a combo light street/track tire, I think the RA-1 is the best. You can drive to the event with no issues, and go fast when you get there. The Victoracer is a little faster, and a good track only tire, but they pick up debris easily on the street, and don't last as long as the RA-1's. John

For open track/HPDE use, I start out at 28 psi cold. I don't do any autox, so that's FWIW. 2700# car, neg 2.5 camber F&R. John

We didn't test a Supra style spoiler. None of us had one, MSA didn't send one, and nobody else supplied one. It could certainly be a possibility for the future. jt

I was very happy with how the whole thing came off. We had a plan, largely put together by Tom (Mayolives), and with only a few changes on the fly, it worked very well. Everybody pitched in loading/unloading/pushing cars, moving & strapping down in the tunnel, making mods, taking pictures, video, rounding up small things we needed, and nobody bitched, whined, complained, or got their panties in a wad about anything. It was truly a well organized well executed team effort by a good group of guys. Since I sold my vintage Z, David Spillman was providing a stock car for the effort, and when David had other commitments, he paid a fellow to haul the car (a beauty)to the wind tunnel, wait till we were done with it, and haul it back. We all took off from work, traveled, supplied parts, etc., but that was above the call of duty. We had a long list of things to try, and ultimately ran out of tunnel time before getting them all done, but we weren't sure just how many "pulls" we would get to make in our alotted time, and we sure didn't want to show up without enough things to test. So, not all items got tested, but alot did, and it's a credit to the Hybrid Z community. Also a big thanks to Bob at the A2 wind tunnel for helping us along, and to MSA and APR for loaning us parts to test. Whew, I need a nap........ John

Tony, the g nose we used came on an ""unfinished project"" car I bought, unknown origin. It doesn't come all the way back to the radiator support, I guess the gap is 6" or so. It had no headlight covers and no air dam. Surprisingly the gnose didn't reduce the drag numbers much, but it did reduce front lift. The type 3 air dam was much better with the underside sealed, and the g nose would have probably benefited also. It was a heck of a busy day. I thought it went very well, we got pretty much something for just about everybody included. One thing very evident is why big race teams spend so much time testing. Most of our stuff was just one item, but when you get into combinations, the list gets endless, and what pieces work well with others is a big surprise sometimes. One thing the tunnel operator kept emphasizing was that we must work on the car as a package. For instance the whale tail made some big downforce #'s, but increased front lift and drag. (((((EDIT: The whale tail drag numbers are under review, because I am a dumbass.))))) Sticking one end of the car down without doing something equal to the other end won't help the total package go any faster. John

Aux, when you get the holes slotted enough to put the mount where you want it, degrease the mount and action and use some epoxy on the mount when you put it on. Use a toothpick to clean up the epoxy that's squeezed out aroung the edges. Along with some locktite on the screws, it will never move. John

The only way I would attempt a bare chassis is if I could find a complete donor car. Otherwise you're going to go nuts chasing all the bits and pieces and trying to figure out what goes where. jt

Well......put a bigger cam in it. Actually the next time mine comes apart it's getting a little smaller cam. Right now it makes peak hp at 6700, and I only turn it to 7, so I think I would go faster with less cam. jt

It seems to be a litle fat at idle, but not terribly so. With the cam I can't do much with the LM1 at idle, so the idle circut screws are right where it starts to stumble if you lean it out anymore. Off idle the dyno shows a lean spike, but there's no stumble at all, so I haven't worried about it. Mid range & up it's great. The 830's come with the secondary blades drilled to about 3/16 or so, and an adjustable secondary stop screw, and air bleeds, so you have lots to fiddle with. jt

Right now I don't see any problem with that. It's quietly gathering dust on the box in my shop. Let me know when you're getting closer, and we'll work it out. John

Junk engine is a 355, 10.6:1, Canfield 195's with light cleanup, ported air gap, Comp solid roller something like 248/252, 580/586 on 110, S&S's, MSD ignition. The 830 annular noticably fattened up the midrange, to be honest I can't tell much difference on the top end although the dyno did. If you want to try them, I've got a good 700dp that's been cut & polished, or a spare 830 annular you can borrow. jt

You've already got custom pistons and it's going to be hard to recoop much $$$ from them. I would suggest selling the heads and buying an unmodified set. jt

Hmmmm. In no particular order: 1. Check to see that the caliper is parallell to the rotor. Easiest way is dial calipers between the caliper body and the rotor. 2. Check the rotor runout. 3. Rotate the pads and see what happens. 4. Change the o rings in the calipers, while looking carefully for any sign of a stuck or binding piston. 5. If you have rubber brake lines, throw them away and put stainless on. 6. If the pads are so tight you have to beat them with something to get them in, take a sander or grinder and thin them down enough they will drop in with hand pressure. 7. Make sure the pads aren't binding in the caliper body. John

Look at the RF rotor carefully and see if the transfer film is even, or if it is splotchy. You may have to clean the rotors and rebed the pads. jt

Pete, I'm running a Holley HP830 annular on my junk. It picked up 30 ft-# in the midrange compared to a 750dp, and about 20 hp on the top end. I've been very pleased with it. John

I don't know if it works or not, but I'm skeptical. You still have two adjacent cylinders firing consecutively, just different ones. How can that help? Crank harmonics are a funny thing though, I guess it's possible. John

Stay tuned, folks. It's getting real close. I can throw in a G2X datalogger 148mph on the VIR frontstretch. Car was still pulling strong, but turn one was approaching.......quickly. Edit: I'm going to come down to Maxton one day and check you guys out. That interests me. John

Pics look nice. My suggestions would be to look at all the mods carefully, to see the quality of workmanship, esp. the wiring harness. A mucked up wiring job can be a nightmare. Any Z has possible rust issues. Look at the floorboards, rockers, doglegs, battery box, and front frame rails with a microscope. Nicely done repairs are OK, but beware of bondo, fiberglass, and undercoating sprayovers. Do lots of reading here. The old posts have tons of information on modified Z cars. John