jt1

Has anybody used the "stroker" rods some manufacturers offer? I haven't seen any, but apparently they have less material on the big end hump where it's close to the cam. I wonder if the blank is different, or if they just machine off the corner? John

For road course/open track/HPDE events, the 3 deg F 2.5 deg rear is a good starting point. You may want to fine tune it a little but that's pretty close. Don't worry about that being too much for the V710's, they will love it. I run 1/8" toe in on the rear and 1/8" toe out on the front. The toe out on the F makes the car turn in better, but it can make it a little twitchy on the straights, not everyone likes that. Toe in on the rear helps the car put the power down on exit. I can't comment on street/drag use. John

I run 16x8's on my 73 240Z. You will need coilovers, 5" backspacing, and probably have to roll the fender lips on the rear depending on what tires you run. John

Where's Heather? John

Wow. $6100 and 7 days to go. My estimate is way short. jt

I predict $3500. Some of the Z28 guys will go nuts over that. It is a nice piece. Edit: With the carbs and air cleaner, I'm going to bump that to 5K. jt

If you're going to shift at 7K or less, you'll go faster with a little smaller cam. My 355 makes peak hp at 6700, with a 248/252 580 or so solid roller. John

GetZ: The lean spike surprised me, because the motor has no stumble or bog to it at all. I'm going to play with the cams and squirters a little. The two lines are two separate pulls, the first one blue, the second red with the idle mixture richened up a little. Economy isn't an issue, I want to make good power and not get into detonation. Doc: Will the smaller HS air bleeds flatten out the top of the curve, or the entire curve. This is the first carb I've messed with that has replacable bleeds. Wayne: Right now I'm going to stick with the carb. Two many other projects going on to make an EFI switch right now. Maybe one of these days I will get into the twentieth century. Hans: I wondered about the fuel pressure too, since this seems to me like a ton of carb and jet for a 7K 355. I don't have a guage, I need to put one on and check that possibility. Pump is a 6psi Carter. Timmy: You might be right. Several other people have suggested I just don't run this thing hard enough. I'm working on it. Dyno guy suggested one size smaller jet in front, one size smaller HS bleed in front, and two sizes smaller HS bleed in rear. We didn't have the right bleeds on hand, so I'm going to round some up and go back. Edit: Paz: Ignition is a MSD 6AL w/MSD dist. Timing is 18/36, black bushing, with two blue springs, getting full advance at 27-2800 rpm. John

355 NA 1st gen SBC, 10.5:1, pump 93 Carb is a Holley HP4150 830 annular, 86 square, 2.5/2.5PV, 32 high speed bleeds. Does it need: More jet F&R? More jet rear? Less high speed bleed? Check fuel pressure? Ebay the carb and go EFI? All help would be appreciated. John

I don't know a thing about MS, but that's quote of the week material. John

This year, South Carolina beat Clemson at Clemson, for the first time in many moons. SC gave Spurrier a $500,000 a year raise. Wow. jt

OK, so my vertical force exerted by the 3:00 caliper is not resisted by the unibody on top of the strut (which I thought might compress the strut), but rather by a downward force on the spindle (not compressing the strut, only deflecting the spindle/caliper mount an insignificant amount). Good explanation, Thanks. I've enjoyed this discussion!!!! John

I think this is the Mark Ortiz article referred to by Cary. It's talking about wheel loading, but there are a lot of revelant points there. I'm still thinking about it. I fully agree caliper position doesn't affect the chassis, but I'm not convinced it can't compress the strut. John

Huh? If the caliper doesn't apply any force to the strut, why bolt it on to start with? What resists the force of the pads friction with the rotor? John

The force the caliper applies to the strut generates a moment, but the caliper itself doesn't apply a moment. I'm not fully convinced my above post is correct. I've been thinking about the wheel/hub/tire as a freebody, and the forces it exerts on the spindle. It's possible the caliper force is being resisted by a force on the spindle, not the top of the strut. Are Johnc, katman, and Cary all on vacation? John

So far as the start of this thread, caliper location affecting handling, there are lots of things to think about there, some maybe significant, some not. I think caliper location can definitely cause compression of the strut, here's why. First lets define force as an linear influence acting on a body, with a direction and magnitude. A moment is a rotational influence, caused by a force multiplied by a radius. Or, a force is simply pushing on a body, with a known direction and load. A moment is when you tighten a bolt with a wrench, you apply a force to the end of the wrench, and this force acting on the radius, the length of the wrench, results in a moment, a rotational influence, being applied to the bolt. Now lets look at the strut as a free body, in equilibrium. Lets assume it's vertical and looking at the car from the drivers side, it's the front strut and the caliper is mounted at 3:00, to the rear of the strut. When the caliper grabs the rotor and tries to move, it applies a force to the strut. Since the caliper is at 3:00, the force is straight upward. The strut is in equilibrium, so all forces and moments must be equal. The reaction to the force comes from the unibody, straight down, and it is this force that compresses the strut. Since the force applied by the caliper creates a moment, there will be other forces applied to the strut to resist this moment, by the unibody and the ball joint, but it is only the vertical force that causes compression of the strut. If the caliper was at 9:00, the force would be downward, and would be resisited by an upward force on the spindle, applied by the hub. If the caliper is at 6:00 or 12:00, the force would be horizontal, and would not compress the strut, just load the unibody and LCA/TC rod. The key is that for the strut to be in equilibrium, all vertical and horzontal forces must be equal, and all moments must be equal. There are lots of other forces acting on the strut, but I am only discussing the calipers influence. Recognize that the caliper is not exerting a moment on the strut, only a force. If you were tightening the bolts holding the caliper on, then you would be exerting a moment on the strut. And I don't think it makes any real world difference, since we are pretty limited as to how we mount our caliper to the strut, with only a limited range allowed by the bracket. John

How about putting a 90deg grease fitting in, so you can grease it with a standard tip, which is much easier to apply and remove than a 90deg one? jt

I was wrong when I said the caliper exerts a moment on the strut/spindle assembly. It only exerts a force. If the caliper is to the rear of the strut, the force is going to compress the strut, if the caliper's on the front it will compress the tire. I don't think camber affects it. When you increase camber, you change the angle of the strut/rotor/caliper/tire as a unit. Changing the inclination angle of the strut would increase the compression. jt

OK, I'm beginning to think that if the caliper is mounted to the rear, at 3:00, it exerts a moment on the strut which is resisted by a longitudinal force at the top of the strut, exerted by the unibody. The caliper also exerts an upward force which whould be resisted by a vertical unibody force, which would tend to compress the strut. If the caliper was at 9:00, the force would tend to compress the tire. Maybe. Edit: My clocking is looking at the car from the drivers side. jt

I think it's true of swingarm suspensions. If the caliper is to the rear, the force is upward on the arm. If it's on the front, it's downward. I'm not sure it affects a strut at all, still thinking about that. Mounting the calipers inboard would slightly reduce the PMOI of the car, but the amount would be very small. jt

Another thing to note is that the collectors are welded on at slightly different angles, so when you make your S pipes don't think a mirror image of one will work on the other side. jt

Hey Spazman, why don't you step up and fund the whole deal?????????? :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: jt

Some people run different compounds F/R to determine brake bias. This is not quite as desirable as a dual master balance bar or prop valve setup, but it can be effective. You always want the fronts to lock before the back. If the back locks first, it's real easy to spin the car. John

The S&S's clear the steering shaft, close but no interference, spark plug clearance is good, starter clearance is good, they hang pretty low on the pass side, and the collectors are very close to the footwells. They will probably work fine if you're running the car fairly high. If it's low. like mine, ground clearance on the pass side is an issue. They are very nicely made, with good fit and finish. John