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jt1

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Everything posted by jt1

  1. The engine and exhaust move around a good bit. I would think 3/8" would be a minimum to avoid rattles. John
  2. The last time I was at Calico, there was a guy from DEI there, picking up a pallet full of pistons. John
  3. Unhook the oil separators from the hoses to the headers, jury rig some breathers, plug off the hoses, and make several full throttle runs, preferably at the strip. That should tell if it's the evac system or not. jt
  4. Usually that much of a camber change will change the toe enough to make the car twitchy and noticably increase tire wear. If I were going to change the camber, I'd change the toe also. John
  5. That's pretty impressive. What kind of work has been done to them? John
  6. David Spillman told me about HybridZ. We were discussing his Z car, and he mentioned the site. I just read and lurked for about a year before I joined and posted. Pretty soon checking in here became a daily thing. John
  7. Sounds like a big vacumn leak to me. John
  8. My quaife has the C rings in it, the diff stubs snap right in. John
  9. I've always been a cubic inch kind of guy, but recently when I was hunting for a good block for my 350, I drug an old 302 out of the barn that was left over from my dirt track days. It was in surprisingly good shape, trw popups and 292 heads. I'm going to freshen it up and take it to the dyno just for the heck of it, to see what it does. Back then we just built one and ran it, the 302 did well if the track was slick, but couldn't keep up if it was heavy. It's built on an odd looking 010 block with a K on it on top of the bell housing, the only one I've seen like that. John
  10. Tim, why is the rear of your tailshaft welded up? Was it damaged or did GForce install a larger bearing? John
  11. When the accumulator releases the oil is determined by how much air pressure you put in it, the valve is to store some oil at higher pressure to prelube at startup if you desire. At least in my experience, the release pressure will be below idle engine oil pressure. For instance, let's say the engine has 60psi hot at high rpm, and 30 psi at hot idle. You would probably put 25psi in the empty accumulator, and it would keep your oil psi no less than 25psi as long as the reserve held out. The min pressure is when the accumulator is empty, it builds up to whatever the engine pressure is when full. John
  12. I think the best install is to plumb the accusump into the oil cooler lines, and use a check valve so there isn't any backflow. Some of the sandwich plates may have a checkvalve, but I'm not familiar with them. As the engine comes up to temp, always cycle the accusump a couple of times to get hot oil in it. John
  13. Braap, that's a sweet car. Congrats on a nice purchase. Z32's are such nice comfortable cruisers it would be hard for me to mod it much. John
  14. Quite a few people around here use them in track cars. They seem to be a good intermediate step between a wet sump and a dry sump. Canton is another popular brand, but I've only heard good things about the Moroso. John
  15. I'm going to CMP next weekend with T1 & PCA. Who's at the Rock this week? John
  16. IMPORTANT TOOLS YOU WILL NEED!!!!!!! http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/pic_104s1.jpg John
  17. Very nice place, you're going to enjoy it!!!!! I'm pretty sure I see a muskrat sticking his head up under the propane tank, just FYI. John
  18. I had to be moderately aggressive rolling the lips to use 225/50/15 on 15x7/0 panasports. It was somewhat nervewracking wondering when a big piece of paint was going to pop off the quarter. John
  19. Ztard, that's a sweet rifle!!! How much of it did you do yourself? Just the stock would be a major accomplishment. How about more details on the bolt handle and bottom metal. Does the bottom metal latch the mag? John
  20. jt1

    Kaboom!

    The muskrats will also den in the dam and seriously weaken the structure of the dam. Blast away at them, they're prolific and you're not going to put them on the endangered species list. I too have garage envy. John
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