Modern Motorsports Ltd

quote: Originally posted by lonehdrider: No, gas mileage is a ploy we use to talk the wives into a built 700r or T56 (or other OD tranny). Lone and new trans/engine/intake/carbeurator/cam/exhaust/efi...and brakes are for safety and soundproofing for their comfort PS I'm at the exhaust and EFI part.... ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

For coilover dust boots I got a tip from Scott Bruning to try a bicycle tire tub or similar and slip it over each end of my strut tube, one could put a few holes in it up top to keep it from insulating moisture but I've yet to see a chrome strut shaft rust either. just an ideer...the aftermarket shock boots were all two wide when I looked last spring ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

is their not an adaptor that will work with the beefier Z31 flange? I'd assume when doing a driveline from scratch one would want the beefiest R200 front flange available? I just went with stock R200 as I cheaply had my driveshaft and that of a camaro same OD spliced. Otherwise I'd of kept the Z31 flange if possible or had a larger end welded up to mate something available. (I'm assuming the 280Z flange isn't bulletproof?) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

I replaced my 'dud' halfshaft yesterday and checked out the other one as well. 1.5 hrs total. Old 'dud' shaft had elongated bolt holes on the outer flange to the point of almost breaking out whereas the hub flange was fine/if anything only mildly enlarged but not discernable. I jacked the rear up plenty high and supported the car on the two rear ends of my frame rails with wood and jackstands under crossmember ends just in case. As my 'dud' halfshaft was already disconnected it had nicked a brake line in a minor way and put 3 good dents in my control arm as well as 2 good nicks in the bottom of my strut, all from coming free at an idle in gear. I found the end of my halfshaft was 'pinned' b/t my hub/flange and ebrake cable....raising my hub with a floor jack gave me extra room here to pop the flange on the diff (easy 2 cracks of prybar) and slide it out via this ebrake/hub 'hole'. Then for reinsertion: with hub/flange still up slide shaft back up through this 'hole' and get the end started in the diff and then tapped fully in. However with the hub/flange jacked up I couldnt' compress the shaft enough to get the CV flange to slide up/and seat inside the hub flange. Lowering the hub/flange 'lengthened' the 'room' for the overall CV shaft and I was then able to compress it enough to get the flange compressed and seated inside the hub/flange. All bolts were loctited and torqued damn tight. Other side was checked and found to be fine with only one bolt taking a 1/16 rotation tighter. FWIW, my old '2 bolts' that failed/both failed on their 1st thread. Looks like the others were gone and these two loosened until their thread was exposed and then snapped. Damn strong bolts IMO. I hope the above description will help a rookie who has to do this on their own at some point. If your halfshaft was still attached as most would be.....I'd leave the hub/flange at maximum low position to give you the most 'length' to compress/slide the inner shaft flange free of your hub/flange after you'd removed all bolts. As well check that the 3 'tabs' on the CV endcap are 'tapped' inward/tight so this cap can't come free/loose and allow dirt inside while you service your shafts/rear etc. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Kevin Shasteen: Thanks Owen...it was I that inquired about the T-56 backing a stock datsun 6; about a month ago. Kevin, (Yes,Still a "Factory 4spd" Inliner) Kevin, the only time I'd go to much effort at all to put a 6spd behind an L6 would be for high speed function where I had to combine 3.9 or 4.11 gears as part of my power combo. L6's don't mind cruising at 3-4k all day long. Mine did on 1200km solo trips averaging 80+mph with 3.9's/5spd and got 30mpg doing it. I would not go to one for an rpm drop at highway speed unless I had majorly stout rear gears of 4.38 or similar which would be a totally different car anyhow. just my .02c Ross (replies few and far b/t lately) C (not a reply to every poster;^)

do you have a spacer between your frame rail and crossmember to lower crossmember and thus allow you to lower your motor? It has an influence on your suspension geometry but nothing major that can't be corrected fairly easily. I'll be placing ~3/4" spacers their on my setup

quote: Originally posted by Andrew Bayley: Ross (and others), I'm able to get a full 100% throttle 3-4 shift in my 700R4. All I did was install the B&M throttle valve and the strip shift kit. -Andy Yup, sniff, that's what was put in mine with no success yet this summer it'll likely get torn into to have a looksee.... ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by blueovalz: Hi Ross You've pretty much already got the idea. The clip (plate) and spring can be put on from any other one. I can't imagine that there is no damage to the flange lip (how did you even find the spring when all this came apart????). If the car is only jacked up on one side, no fluid will come out that side of the diff. Good luck Terry thanks for the reply Terry, I was hoping for some info before I repair it tomorrow. My boots etc are still in fine shape, spring/plate etc came off the end only and were sitting right their a few feet behind where it happened (I was at an idle!) I believe 4 bolts on the flange backed out and fell off leaving two in the end that were subsequently loosened and then finally sheared. Nice safety that nothing really happened until 2 loose bolts left considering what the car sees off on and on. So I'll see how easy the one shaft pops out, it it's uncooperative I might just crack the 'cap' off a spare and see if I can swap a spring etc what's missing into my present one....I'd prefer to install a new/full/known complete one and will likely do that. I did go looking for halfshaft bolts today (garage is not very functional right now...full of stuff from a large locker I emptied mid year) and after 5 minutes spotted a nice small white box on top of of ledge above my bench....labelled in large black letters "half-shaft bolts"! (this isn't normal for me finding things found 6 bolts/6 washers/6 nuts all cleaned/prepped so that was a plus Good idea on raising the one side slightly higher as well for fluid retention (some $30+ in fluid in their at least). I've done a lot with diffs but most always out of a car and drained so this was a new one. I will check out the flange on the old one, if anything I'd expect the flange holes to be somewhat elongated perhaps but not much other damage...will see. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by kc6wfs: Thanks Ross, Ya I bet it's something in there thats keeping it from shifting at WOT into 4th. Ross, Did you ever see the site that tells what every mod for the 700R4 does and ease of instalation? Some said the $35 part from B&M does it and others said it only allows 3-4 at 2/3-3/4's throttle. I got the full WOT 3-4 $125US or so kit to no avail yet. A real bugger on the roadracing track as I've finished a corner exit ONTO a straightaway at 110mph to only have 10mph left for the whoooollllleeeee stretch which really sucks and I don't like holding it at 6grand in 3rd down a straight.. I don't think I've seen the site you mention Dave? I've refrained from going into my trans on my own except for filter changes as I know their's a few unique tools to them and my trans is a PITA to access/service let alone remove. Governor can't come off without dropping it down a lot/dizzy removal etc...new motor mounts and trans xmember will make it easier but still a hassle....I've debated an access 'port' from inside the car like Jag's have (or at least had). ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

If you must have the lumpy idle just have an alternate EFI switch for a rich idle been done before to add some lump for effect in case you're not feeling so stealthy at the lights ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

is this in the car or out of the car? did you bolt a halfshaft to it and give it a couple quick snaps? it's not a 'gradual' thing, but a v. strong/quick snap like killing chickens I'd guess ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by kc6wfs: Thanks Ross, Funny here all along for the last month I thought i was only getting into 3rd due to the hi r's on the freeway. I don't have the plug for the trans.. How much do ou think the dealer will charge for the plug?? Also my trans is a 1984 vintage. Ross can you with your trans be WOT and still shift into 4th? Sorry for the slow response...as John says lockup and specific gears is independent. Pete: yes manual valve body 700's have been popular among racers for a while/likely due IMO to their common frustration at tailoring shift points (v. few seem skilled to do it like a few described on this list). Dave: I've fought with getting full WOT 3-4 since I got my trans..not an easy thing to test out due to the speeds I see that at (120mph/6000/3rd) but I've yet to have it..I can 2/3-3/4 throttle it in 4th but that reaches about same as 3rd/6000/hair more but it'll kick to 3rd. I've had the big $ B&M fix put in and another attempt on it as well with no luck so far. Haven't been into since the last attempt to see if some debris from rebuild was preventing that at all. For just the electric plug/pigtail I'd grab it from a yard if GM wants much dough for it. I'd also wire the lockup switch to or v. near my shifter if possible so it is handy and frequently used as Paul mentions. FWIW, I've been advised to use synthetic in mine which is pricey but I'm using it. The most recent builder into my trans is in a few NW car clubs and has done a lot and stood by them so I feel better about my more recent build. PSS my dad started driving his LT1/T56 240Z earlier this week! yet to actually talk to him but wanting to for more details ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Boy I must be tired, just spent 30 seconds trying to type my subject into the 'username' field wondering why it would truncate at 12 or so characters! Anyhow...one final done/3 to go and 2 wks left till I'm done this degree. Tuesday this week we had a field trip out near Colebrook road....had a few 100mph blasts on my way home that I really enjoyed as 99% of the last 8 mos. were commuting to/from school. I'm a couple hundred feet away from our place/home at an idle due to an oncoming vehicle and snap/thunk/thunk thunk .......what'da'hell? leave it idling and it doesn't go into park so well at all? damn.....turns out halfshaft flange at hub has parted ways with my hub flange!! instantly I think I know what my vibration for the last couple months has been! thought I'd thrown some wheel weights (still may have..) but obviously my halfshaft bolts loosesed off as only two snapped ones were to be found and even on the snapped half the nuts were still 'free' to turn so the other 4 must've gone holidaying on me. Now my question: the end 'flange' metal round plate that 'clips' over the shaft end came off as did a small 'button' like tab and one spring (~ twice length of a valvespring with twice the coil gap), I assume all this came out the end from under that plate...the spring is bent on one coil midlength. I have one spare pair of CV shafts so can swap in one fine one but am very tight for time right now (exams) so if I can slap a spring/tab/plate back on the one in my car and just rebolt it up I'd love to.........anyone had this apart? I can take a plate/spring/tab out of my spare pair if that'll work.......as well if one removes a halfshaft I assume diff fluid will be coming out at that height or no?? I really need to minimize this downtime/been parked since Tuesday and classes our now done but still tons to do (getting their!!) Thanks...... PS never even mentioned how incredibly lucky I feel!!!!! 30 seconds or 15 minutes earlier and I'd be replacing underwear and a halfshaft to say the least! PSS halfshafts/bolts were installed 25,000+km's, 16 months ago and torqued very tight with damn clean threads. this item has now made it to my more routine maintenance checklist..(I recall Scottie checking his regularly), my suspension is v. stiff and our roads suck so loose bolts are not rare on my rig even with liberal loctite use on other areas ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: You probably don't want to use the halfshaft to pull on if it's a CV shaft - many manuals for cars with CV shafts say this is a no-no - it will hose the joints, boots at least. Maybe the 280ZX T shafts are sturdier like this, I dunno... well I've never had an inkling of a problem with my UJ shafts I used before or the CV's I have now, I have a spare set of each just for safe keeping, most likely for when a boot finally cracks on me. It was the UJ ones that I've used that way to yank the stubs on 'old' diffs I'm checking out, if my own or those I own and am doing some work for shipping then a prybar twitch pops them out happily everytime. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Dave, you can run it fully unlocked with dummy lockup valve and non-lock convertor or just never hook up lockup on it. Hooking up lockup provides that direction connection (Pete will disagree ) and can be had in 2/3/4 without unlocking between gears depending on setup (ie. gains to be had in 1/4 if fully locked for some). You can do it as simple as a 2 wire relay to the plug on your trans and a switch you hit manually and a 'kickout' related to your brake pedal so it always unlocks as you slow down (leaving it locked at idle will kill it fast!). More expensive ways are rpm activiated lockup kits like B&M. I have one cause I got it used/cheap but yet to install. Running it locked up will reduce the heat it creates and add slight mileage gains. If you do lock it up please document before and after rpm's at specific speeds as I've heard you 'only' gain 200rpm or so by locking it so it hasn't hit the top of my list. PS if you have no lockup then it shouldnt' respond at all to your wiring/switch effort as the lockup valve isn't present to be activated...I'm sure Don will chime in with more solid facts. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

I have to respectfully disagree Kevin on liquid wrench into diff stub axle interfaces. Unless you plan to fully flush the diff after etc you don't know what influence this 'oil' may have on your diff/seals/clutch packs etc. Easiest method I've found (yeah/used screwdrivers/bent some...) is to use a halfshaft as a slide hammer....easiest if diff is out of the car, compress halfshaft and give it a good tug uncompressing it, 2 tugs max have always pulled out the stub nicely for me. Otherwise if in the car a good prybar as mentioned under that flange and even two to get a more 'even' pull as it is a tighter tolerance fit like your rear axles (not that tight but the idea). It's only a snap-ring inside that you need to dislodge from it's location but it can take a lot of effort (assuming splines aren't rusted/corroded in place/never found that yet on MANY diffs). HTH ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Looks great Paul....BUT what's the ole butt dyno tell you ! You getting that 1%/10 degrees? Any before engine bay temp readings? You doing Pt. Townshend this summer? Looks like that might be one event I'll make. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

I'd just like to add for others/newbies benefit that IMO a good 700r4 starting point is to start with a corvette governor initially vs. camaro/truck etc, ~$40-50 max and fine starting point that may even be fine as is.

quote: Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ: Thanks for the response guys. From an appearance standpoint, I prefer the Quicksilver. Typically when a manufacturer has several similar items, the highest priced one is usually the best quality. However, siince the hammer has that special handle and a leather boot, I wonder if that is what makes it more expensive than the others or are the mechanicals different/better. I too am concerned about the size of the big Hammer cover since the 71 console is narrow and it will probably come close to the fuse box. Scottie, I've had my Hammer installed since late last spring. Others who've used various shifters say it's stiff and I agree. Mechanics are same AFAIK as the megashifter. Leather boot/chrome knob etc make up the difference. As far as size etc, they're all about the same and you can 'sink' the setup down into your tunnel if you like. I have room to do that but nowhere near the top of my priority list now. Handle location is actually quite ideal relative to my steering wheel so although lowering it would look better (to me, us import guys are used to shallow/short shifters) I'm hesitant to do so. I have had problems with a few bolts on mine loosening up. On my handle the two bolt 'pins' have come loose even after loctite...finally double nutted them, and just 5 wks ago I was losing some shift quality and checked it out...EVERY single nut underneath related to it was loose so they all got recranked/loctited (no loctite first time on them/I did it a friends hoist and no loctite that late night). But then my car likes to loosen bolts. As mentioned you pull it to D and then ratchet down to 1st. With the times you're pulling you may prefer a prostick type setup which might be more durable as it's more intended for hardcore drag racing, just guessing their. The Hammer has no 'ordinary' indicators, all indicators are backlit in a red light so you only see what gear you're presently in as a backlit number/letter and it's somewhat sensitive to your viewing angle (ie. a 6'6" husband and 5'2" wife wouldnt' see it the same I'd venture). Works fine, I was disapointed in the quality of the plastic bits on the inside and the indicator (easily scratched I'm sure) for the $ and I felt they could have made the wiring harness longer/beefier..I had to extend all my wires. But I don't know that any others are better. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Austringer: I recently saw a dyno test between an identical 305 and 350. The 350 was worth and aditional 50HP an 50TK. Yup, even OE vs. OE the 350 is a big leg up on the 305. 305's w/ smaller bore really have their heads/valves shrouded which limits breathing and efficiency. Same reason you rarely hear favourable thoughts on 305 heads on 350s...bumps compression but not so worthwhile overall unless a lot is done and then it may as well be a 350 . Definitely worth waiting/looking for the 350 combo or 327 etc...(anything but 305 if you can help it) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by needwaymorespeed: Has anyone used the 1and 3/4 block huggers from reward headers on there car?? wondering how they fit? thanks Curtis I looked into them last summer. They were very helpful and cooperative on the phone as well as willing to do a 'few' custom tweaks to better fit my ZX. I'll be ordering their 1-3/4's as soon as I have the dough for the rest of my exhaust system and decide if I want 2.5" collectors or 3" . $300 coated is a fine price IMO for what they're producing. I was going to spec flange to rail and oilpan tolerances as well as flange angle/back slightly on drivers side to clear my steering shaft (3" is v. tight on one side). Any preferred advice on actual pipe/collector etc sizing? I got info back from Spintech saying to go 3" on header collectors but then to reduce to 2.5" for my Y pipe to a 3.5" single with their sportsman muffler up front and a Hp series out back ( I requested maximum quiet for 325rwhp 350). I've been told to go 2.5" collectors as a dual 2.5" Y pipe is a smoother transition to a 3" single than a dual 3" to a single 3" considering overall area. I was thinking perhaps a lot of gas cooling would have occurred by my Y and thus benefit of dual 3" on Y pipe may still be OK...... all ideers welcome, I got a lot of info from the other 'one or two' muffler thread as well and I did read those pipe spec/hp rec'd from flowmaster saying 3" single is good to 400hp or so PSSS I didn't find anyone who's used rewarder headers so far but they're not your typical streetrod offering amongst those I know. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Fastrdrvr, you'll enjoy your T56 for sure AS for best gear matchups it's hard to say until you've driven your new setup and have a feel for it's powerband and your 'regular' rpm's you'll be driving. For ie. 4.11 rear might move you into a preferable gear around town AND on the highway depending on your routine speeds or 3.54 may make your traction tolerable so you can use 2nd gear and not start in 3rd That's one issue I'd drive what ratio is in your car first to get a feel for it as their is quite a variety of builds on this site with what seems to be limited T56 historical data to present. (I'd run the steepest gears I could and not have 3rd gear traction problems IMHO ) You'd be at a final drive ratio of 2.05, still ahead of my 2.205 IF I put in my 3.15's. Ross (back to the books and job hunting, one offer to date and fishing for more ) PS keep the mod info coming guys, I'm dying from lack of garage time...... ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ: Just found out on the turbobuick board that Greg had an "incident". The shaft on the turbine side of his turbo snapped and the impeller WENT THROUGH the cast iron turbine housing and put a hole in his hood. That precious engine is undamaged and now he has the excuse for upgrading to a T-88 turbo Wow! that's a 10.0 on my pucker factor scale!

As Terry says you need to do a few more checks. Plugs wet at all? Is it TBI? if you crank it can you see fuel in the TB? power at fuel pump when cranking? if you 'hotwire' the fuel pump directly does it run?..... Could just be an old/loose connection came loose on that corner on you. PS electronic replacements are usually my last choice in diagnosis as they're non returnable ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

I felt their was one major con of header wrap missing. It can easily absorb a lot of oil if you have an engine leak/blowup or whatever and this makes it a rather large potential fire hazard as well. Given it can be v. close to starter terminals/arcing wires letalone it may just get that hot on its own depending on your AFR. Even just a hot valve adjustment (hydraulic lifters/roller or flat tappet) can send some oil flying around. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.