HICKL

I fear that it is diff backlash. I just did a coilover install and the sound which was there before did not change so I think I can safely rule out anything loose in that area. It does it under light decel or accell like you mentioned. Under load in any direction it is fine. How much play/rotation should the driveshaft have with the rear wheels locked?

nope.

Car=76 280, sbc, t5 tranny, r200 diff. That being cleared up, I have developed a light clunking somewhere in my drivetrain. It is fine under hard accel or decel, but shows up under no load "coasting" type situations. Sounds like it is coming from the rear end, does it regardless of gear, u-joints seem tight. What do you guys think?

I have a stick welder at home, a mig at work and a neighbor who is a master with a tig. What do you need done? Sleeper, I want that cowl hood that's in your pic, where did you get it? Are you looking to get a car painted or just some parts? I know a guy that paints on the side that did my car. He does pretty good work and is reasonable. If you guys want to hook up this weekend somebody call me at 281-572-2420. I will be around all weekend. Jeff Hickl

Tell me what you need and how much $ you have , and I'll tell you if I can make it. I made all my JTR mounts and stuff like that but that's all easy.

No, we don't do that kind of work. We are an oilfield manufacturing machine shop. We have some kick butt equipment, just not set up for that.

Grab some beer and head north 20 minutes and we'll talk!

Ya know, as I was typing that I was thinking "somebody will have to go there"

Awesome, what year did you get the taurus fan out of? Ive heard late 80's I think, just want to make sure so I can get one.

My tubes are 4"

Thanks Madman, I am using the short threaded tubes, what is the location to weld the ring on those? Seems like I have seen 1" above the old lower perch, is that correct? Does anybody have a copy of Ross' instructions that they could send to me? Lastly, somehow I didn't get the top perch pc, does anyone have a detail pic of this so I could see what it is and make my own? Thanks

We can make anything! All it takes is time and money http://www.faithmfg.com

I just don't want to wait! His e-mail gave an out of office reply that they would be out until July 6. I run a machine shop so it wouldn't cost me anything to fab it.

Ok, I'm missing the pc that sits right on top of the spring and the thick spacer above the washers, or is that a stock pc? Anybody have rough dimensions on that top spring plate? I could make my own.

I need to chat with someone who has installed Ross' coilovers. I bought a set and have a few questions but he is on vacation I believe and I need some input. In no way do I mean for this to sound like a complaint against Ross. He has been awesome to talk to and deal with, I just need some help and he is out of pocket. Anybody have a pic of the whole system in place that shows the top as well as the bottom. Thanks

I thought that was how it was supposed to work. See this excerpt "The basic reason for the change in optimum timing at light loads is that when operating at light loads, the mixture is leaner for fuel economy and less dense because of light load. These conditions cause the charge to burn slower, and thus, to reach peak pressure at optimum point in the cycle, the spark must be initiated earlier. Failure to do this will result in "retarded" spark timing and all the aforementioned losses." Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to learn.

Pyro wrote "GM vacuum advance distributors use a "ported" vacuum source which means it will NOT have any vacuum on it at idle. " Is this true? I have mine set up with vacuum at Idle and motor runs great? Mechanical advance kicks in as RPM's go up.

There will be 6 second cars there, surely I won't be louder than them?

There is a foot or so of 2 1/2 pipe after my collectors then they join together for about another 12 inches before it would be open. I have a super turbo muffler which I'm sure is causing some restriction. As I am typing, I realize that this is more of an exhaust post than a SBC post. I apologize for the placement in the SBC forum.

I plan on taking my car to the upcoming super chevy show in Dallas. I have a medium/mild (325 hp maybe) 350 running thru a single 3" exhaust. I have a flange in my exhaust basically right under the friver seat just after the two pipes turn into one. If I run it "open" at that point, he revs real good and sounds mean, but I am wondering if you really gain anything by doing this. I'm considering running it that way for the strip but don't know if I will gain any speed or just be obnoxious. Thanks Jeff

I live in Texas, seldom gets below 40 degrees, does reach 105 (although I would leave the car parked on those days). Lets have some opinions on what oil to use brand and weight. Oh yeah, sbc 350 daily driver.

I have aluminum valve covers with no baffles. My car will suck oil thru the pcv valve vent tube and into the intake...and blow it out the tailpipe . Can I just run a little breather on each valve cover and not use the pcv to intake rig? I don't understand the purpose of recycling that vented crankcase pressure back to the intake. Please help. Desperately seeking knowledge

Earlier in the post someone stated that if the valves were bypassed or left open "it would mean constant heat" If the big flap is in the cool position doesn't it route the air away from the heater core all together? Spent all summer getting the ac working...now I'm cold

A buddy of mine is recommending the POR 15 system for painting the engine bay on an old rusty mustang. It has a rust prohibiter coat and then a top coat that the call "chassy black". anybody used this stuff before?

Don't mean to piggy back your thread, but I am trying to get my heater working in my hybrid. In the swap, I removed too much stuff (like the little vacuum modules and the wiring for it in the engine bay). Anyway, can I bypass teh vacuum controled heater valve some way or do I have to figure out how to put all that stuff back together?