Dragonfly

I agree with this and the only thing I can think of to add is that some of the books I have were written in a fashion that gives a complete and very detailed written information/instructions then immidiately following a simplified explination of the same thing but with pictures and the pictures have arrows, circles, lines etc. to show you exactly what is being talked about. One last comment... the book has to be able to be understood by the person with the least knowledge who is reading it. Dragonfly

I have the Schnieder cam in my car (came from Motorsports) and have not had any problems with it. This picture was taken after about 5000 miles of hard driving and racing (6400 rpm shift points). The cryo that you are talking about will not make the cam any harder, what it does is align the molicules in the metal which increases the longevity of the part. I agree that the alloy of the metal used to make the stock Nissan cam versus the Schnieder cam is different but a company that has been around as long as Schnieder and has the reputation they have did not get that way making parts that don't work as advertised. In a nutshell there is nothing wrong with the cams metelurgy and as long as you follow break in procedures you should not have any problems. If you are to worried you can just get a different cam or do a video documentation of your install and break in to use as evidence for any future issues. Dragonfly

I don't know if there are any kits available but I can tell you what I have done. Since there are three predomonent size bolts I took one of each with me to an industrial fastner store and bought a box of 100 of each size but in black with an allen type button head on them. I think they look great and the head does not stick up as much as the stock hex head. Dragonfly

The wipe pattern looks fine to me, it is closer to the top but it is not close enough to warrent concern IMHO. I know it is not good to assume but I am going to make the assumption that you replaced your valve springs, rockers, etc. when you replaced the cam. If you did not it might be in your best interest to change your lash pads to move the pattern to the exact center or just below the center. Here is a pic of mine assembled but you can see were the wipe pattern is. Dragonfly

Locating a boreoscope to look at the crank might prove to be difficult. Here is a thought that I had to give you an idea if it is a stroker. Put it on a dyno... in general a well tuned bone stock L28 puts out 110 rwhp plus or minus a few, if the dyno shows about 130 rwhp or better you can make a reasonable assumption that the motor is a stroker, if it is between 110 and 130 it could be a well tuned (strong running) L28, and if it comes out less than 110 it is a reasonable assumption that it is not a stroker. Strokers tend to have a fairly early torque curve and a fairly flat torque curve as well so that would be something else to look for and strokers tend to have more torque than hp. As you already know from many of the previous post the only real way to know is to pull it apart and measure everything else is up for debate. Dragonfly

I do not run the CSR pump so I can not give you any comments there but what I can tell you is that JeffP (from Hybridz) had pretty much everything to do with the creation of that pump. Knowing what type of person Jeff is I would say you should not have any isues with form and fit, I do not know much about CSR so I won't even guess about anything else with the pump. As for my car I use the Moroso electric motor (called an electric water pump) from Summitt that cost $79 and uses an electric motor to turn your stock water pump. It is not exactly plug and play but it is not difficult. I have put hundreds of hours on this thing and it still works great. I can not tell you how much power I gained from this mod as I did this at the same time I rebuilt the engine and added several other things. Dragonfly

When I was still running a stock fan on my car I had run into similar problems. I found that after spending a lot of time at the wrecking yard that some of the clutches stick out further from the water pump than others. During that time I allways used the same type of stock plastic fan. This has been long ago enough that I do not recall what clutch came from what Z but I can tell you that if you go to the wrecking yard and pull the clutches from Z's of different years you will find that some sit up taller (closer to the radiator) than others. Dragonfly

Glad I missed the bee incident.... I had a good time at your party and I am glad I was out here at the right time to be able to attend. Your new house is a great place just watch out for the bees. There is the real possibility that my company will send me out your way on occasion and when they do I will be sure to give you a heads up so I can come by and keep you up all night talking about cars again. Thanks again for having me out. Dragonfly

I have Ground Control coil overs on my car and what I have run across a couple of times is the nut that connects the strut insert to the camber plate will sometimes back off a little (since the shaft in the insert spins you can not tighten the nut up very much) when that happens I start to get noise from the top of whichever coil over it is that loosened up. Go around the car and check all of them, by the time they start to make noise they are fairly loose. Dragonfly

With mine I laid up f/g across the bumper indentations and overlapped by several inches, after the glass hardened I filled the void from the backside with expandible foam. Once the foam was cured I cleaned the area were I filled the void and laid glass over the hole to seal it. I then sanded and blended the glass into the surounding metal and used a little bit of bondo to make sure everthing was smooth and even. With the back piece I used some body hammers and dollies to remove as much of the indentations as possible without causing warps and wrinkles in the metal then I glassed the back side of all the holes and put a few thin layers of bondo to even everything out. Dragonfly

I have a pair of the FG headlight buckets on mine and they are very thick and yes they weigh more than the metal ones. The fenders weigh about the same or possibly slightly less, my glass fenders weigh 11 lbs each with nothing attached to them. I realize you now have some headlight buckets but where I have run across them in the past is on cars in the wrecking yards, I have been suprised with how many FG parts I have found in the wrecking yards but after getting the parts that I have needed I did not pay much attention to the other parts I have run across. Dragonfly

You were asking about flares before with tires that were not as wide as 24x11x15... you will definately need flares with these. This is a pic of my car with 275/50/15's (10.8 inches wide) and a flare taped on. That would probably just cover the 24x11x15's as long as you had the correct offset. Dragonfly

Paul that is messed up man, I probably know more than most about how much your hood is modified on the underside. That is going to take some major work to repair if you can. It is hard to imagine you having to build a new hood like that. I wish you the best of luck on getting your car back to show condition. Dragonfly

I agree with Jon on this once you get over about 250lb springs they will destroy your strut inserts. I will also tell you that I am running 300lb springs on the back of my Z and 250lb springs on the front. I was also running with about a 1" gap between my tire and fender lip and the only time I was ever able to get the tire to hit the fender was when I had a passenger and hit a bump at a high rate of speed. Dragonfly