rayaapp2

Thank you sir!

So I ended up with the GT3076R and the CXRacing manifold on the car currently. I figure as 240Zdan stated it will be fun to drive around as a street car. Id like to give it a shot and see how I like it for now. Im still planning to use the Love Fab after some corrective measures are made and Id like to install a GTX3582R Ive just realized though that I dont know how to calculate anything for the turbine side for choosing proper A/R for the turbine. I dont imagine its the same set of calculations used for the compressor. That doesnt make much sense. So thus far Ive been using educated guess's based on the few cars I have driven with RB25's and GT35R's. The GTX is different than a regular GT35 but Im guessing I want a smaller A/R so Im tossed up between the .63 and the .82 A/R's. Im not sure I know where to start on figuring this out. My goal is to get quick spool response that stays efficient to 6900-7000rpm's where the stock cams tend to poop out. Ill test out the two turbos and figure out which one will stay on the 260ZR project and which will find its way to the 910R NEO project that's been simmering on the back burner. Im also guessing the CXRacing manifold and the love fab manifold will both play heavy rolls in the performance of the turbo. I dont predict that the GTX3582R will do well in any trim other than the .63 on that manifold. Its downfall is that it has small tubes and poorly fit joints that restrict flow where the lovefab will excel with its uber large tubes and artistic joints. Its really messy inside the CXRacing manifold and there isnt much that can be done to correct it. Id like to figure out which turbine A/R to run with the GTX3582R though so I can reduce lag as much as possible as far as the turbo is concerned.

That looks like you ran the N1 oil pump on a standard crank. Ive seen that happen so many times because someone used the N1 pump with a stock crank. The N1 crank has a collar that extends much further than the std crank which is why the JUN and other companies crank collars are available. Once you have more than 2 square mm driving the oil pump the pumps center gear is loaded properly and the failure rate drops drastically. Didnt one of your first post mention you had the JUN collar? Correct me if Im wrong. Ive got an N1 pump sitting in the box new and a JUN collar ready to go in my next project. A local board member and I tested this theory out on an RB25 here setup with a 2 step launch that's really hard on the oil pump. The collar and the N1 pump held up long term while drag racing at the strip. Weird that yours didnt Glad to see your back up and running.

I just tossed a set of those DGV's in the recycle bin yesterday and hauled it with about 2400lbs of other Z car related recyclables to A&S metals. Take the head if you can use it.

Jon, It took me a while to find the new dowload section, but after I did I found nothing. Any other sources for those drawings and or scans? Thanks OH BTW The 280z EFI Bible is also gone and I was sure it was in that section as well...

Dude! where did you find that? Any chance of a higher resolution so I can read the fine print? Also what year is this suppose to be? The major mounting points up to 74 should as I can tell be identical which is what Im after. The 280Z is different.

A nice 240Z shell just fell in my lap. It has a near perfect front clip. The rest is in really good shape as well except for the rear lower cowl. $500 dropped in my driveway! It came with a bunch of extras like straight front fenders, hood, and doors that I needed anyway, as well as tokico lowering springs, and polished turbo rims with 2 good Hoosier slick tires. Can't beat that. So I have a good donor clip. I really didn't think a straight front clip would just pop up. I haven't seen any in a few years for this price. I wasn't really looking forward to all the work of transplanting a front clip as I mentioned with no extra benefit, but when the opportunity was there I took it. I am still planning on 2 tube frame projects though. My 260ZR project and my buddies 75 280 "GMZ" are both going to have tube frames. Likely what will happen is that Ill build a sub-structure under the floor pan that ties into the rear frame/through the rear frame and into a nice roll cage. Basically integrate the rear structure of the S30 which appears to be very strong anyway into a roll cage/front tube frame. I'm taking some inspiration from a car Moore Speed Company is putting together for Rob Fuller's customer. I wish Paul Moore had pictures posted up of that car I could pass along. Id like to use a roll cage/front tube frame and a boxed underfloor frame to tie the whole car together retaining the stock rear strut structure. This makes the most sense to me without going full blown tube frame race car. It will be solid enough to handle the power levels we both want out of our cars, be safe, and provide the engine bay room for our needs without adding a ton of weight. I eventually would like to do the AWD conversion and a tube frame can easily be modified to accommodate that. My buddy is shooting for an LS1 turbo swap and the donor S30 is basically an outer shell with a rusted out core so he has to start from scratch anyway before the car rusts in half. I have taken measurements from 5 front clips and i have 5 different measurements! I'm hoping this new car is still straight enough to provide some better measurements. Maybe not, but worth a 6th shot. Why can I find skyline R32 or R33 chassis dimensions but S30 dimensions are out of the question?

I kick myself for letting those pans go. Ive had two. I have my eyes open for even stock LD pans now to modify one onto a rear sump L series. A local board member I know also needs one for their maxima l28et swap. I personally only need one for the one l series I have in a car. Keep your ears to the floor they will pop up. There was one in Fresno/atwater a month ago, but I was to slow and it was sold.

That is what I am coming to terms with. Since I will likely be doing this to 2 or 3 cars at this point(One previously planned out and one is a buddies) I have considered building a rolling flat surface to mount the chassis to solidly. like this but for the S30 chasis Just an idea for now. Someday I will execute a final plan on my 260Z. Im still up in the air about the 240Z. Im not going to let it go or not fix it, but there may be a significant delay in doing anything to it for a while. I always end up using the 260Z as my test subject for new ideas anyway. In the end it may turn out that I get tired of waiting and come across a nice front clip and just do it. Right now that just seems like a lot of work with no added benefit other than a simple repair when the time and effort could easily be put toward something like Im suggesting.

Ca cars? What a load! I bought a 75 280Z from Sacramento Ca. Ive seen cars sitting within 1/4 mile of the Pacific Ocean for 20 years with less rust! What's that? That is the pile that was left under the car after I HOSED it out! Its a work in progress It will be getting a LS1 and it was the perfect starting point as all the rust was in panels we planned to cut out and remove for the fuel system or re-enforcement. What is odd about his car is that the hatch sill and rocker/dog leg corners are rust free. But I literally grabbed the spare tire well by the center and it broke free when i lifted up revealing the gas tank! Better yet though when we picked the car up I put my foot through the car reaching for the brake pedal while loading the car on the trailer. That was a scare! You gotta start thinking about it as weight reduction not rust. LOL

The LD28 midsump pans fit perfectly in the S30! Long Ago in a city far far away I joined the dark side! And the important part: As a side note, I make it a point to tell people that I was wronged by Jesco and that you should be weary purchasing from them. Im pretty sure that's where that picture came from originally. I believe the sump is a 7qt sump or so. It lacks real baffles inside as you can kind of see in one of my pictures. It has identical capacity to the maxima counter part. I dont know and dont think the rear sump L series pickup is interchangeable, but its close. Hope that answers some of your questions.

Currently Im thinking about bonding them in the rear. Id like to re-enforce them underneath somehow. Maybe a caulk or something near the attachment point. A full inner liner made of sheet metal that extends out to the new fender Im sure would do the trick. Ill probably bond it inside in the same manor as the outside mating surface+caulk. I know there are automotive caulks out there. I will just have to find one that will fill my need. Ray

I would be interested in your Megajolt curve information! When you get to that point at least. It would be a good starting point for my L28 at least. Great start and very cool! Cool sTuff. I did something similar on my 240z with a full MS3, its a thread here in this forum. I am not going to stay spark only on the MS3 though because I have a L28ET going in now. I thought it was kinda odd you are using a TPS on this setup. I found it a ton easier to put a MAP sensor in instead of a TPS and almost all OEMs use MAP as load. Good stuff though. I can share my map for you, it runs really well on my L26, you would just have to tweak it for the L28. Or yours winstonusmc, that might work to lol

A HUGE thanks to John at Reaction Research for the 280YZ kit and all the work on the custom front air dam. Those 17x8.5 front wheels are way to narrow! They are about 4" inset from the edge of the fender. I have some wheel arch trimming to do on the rear fenders as well. I wasnt sure about that front dam, but now that Ive seen it I have taken a liking to it. So does anyone have an idea how I am going to attach these to the car? The fronts are fairly straight forward. There will be some fabrication involved up front for mounting near the head light buckets still, but the back is going to be the real fun part. For the rears I think I will start by cutting the fender along the same axis as top arch of the inner fender well. That way I can extend the inner fender well out past the current fender and butt it up against the new fenders. That way I can have a real inner fender/semi rock guard. I think I should go ahead and mold the rear fenders into the cars body. That would be the easiest way of doing this. However I like the idea of removable rear fenders. If something happens and I have to replace a fender or if i need to work on the suspension it would be best to be able to remove the old fender. I wouldnt know where to start with that kind of setup either though. I know that some track cars have special clips to retain their panels and that there is another kind of clip used to hold the panels in place while there being fitted to the car. Im sure there are other things out there as well. Ive only seen the two examples though. Ray

12/15/12 was a good day. It almost makes up for 2/13/12... almost A very patient, awesome guy name John hooked me up with some vinylester fenders and a custom brand new style air damn. A HUGE thanks to John at Reaction Research for the 280YZ kit and all the work on the custom front air dam. Those 17x8.5 front wheels are way to narrow! They are about 3.5" inset from the edge of the fender. I have some wheel arch trimming to do on the rear fenders as well. I wasnt sure about that front dam, but now that Ive seen it I have taken a liking to it. That's all for now. Im off to figure out how I should attach these to the car. Ray

I installed a BM44 on my 260Z. I used the booster from a r32 gtr. I had to enlarge the hole for the rod and drill 4 new mount holes. One of the mount holes is really close to the S30 brake pedel bracket and the brake will have to be modified so the nut can be installed. I know its one of the right side nuts toward the trans tunnel, but I dont remember if its the top or bottom one. The R32 booster fits on the 260Z. It might not fit on a pre 73 240Z as the clutch cylinder is closer to the booster. I think the 240sx may be an appropriate replacement booster but I dont know for sure. The Z32 booster might also work its up to you to measure it out first though. I started by leaving the original MC in place and test fitting the new booster to measure it up. Once you know it fits you can proceed with the cutting an drilling. If your trying to install the MC on a stock booster I cant be much help. Now in the future for my car if I choose to install one of the BM50 or BM55 MCs its an easy swap so long as I stick with the non-abs type MCs. Those are the 1" and 1 1/16" MCs. I really like the Booster I have and the MC combo. The brakes feel a lot more refined with the setup Im running, but I still have stock drums in the back and Im using toyota 4 piston calipers up front. I plan on using the BM50 and the AZCar willwood 6 pistons up front and Silvermine calipers in the rear very soon. One nice thing about using the BM series MC is that it incorporates all the brake components in the MC. The distribution valve and whatever else is in the brake system on a S30 hanging out on the fender and bulkhead can and should be deleted. I replaced my components with new brake lines and 10mm metric hydraulic line union coupler which where a little hard to find. I believe I found a company called BrakeQuip that makes the union coupler and a local distributor to me that could order them. Ray

Driver side strut tower is 1/4" closer to the bulkhead, and 3/4" closer to the engine. With no benifit to just replacing the front clip other than to repair the damage, what I need to determine is how much more effort will go into a front tube frame for which there would be added benefits of strength and safety, not to mention the perks of being able to work around what ever suspension or engine I want. This is kind of a brain storm thread to see where I can go with this car. Im having a hard time letting it go obviously, it seems most of us suffer from this affliction lol. No matter which way I choose to go there will be a vast amount of work to get what I want. For instances, If I bought a shell there is all the body work to have the shell prepped and painted, then there is all the work that will go into transferring everything from the current car over and rebuilding the engine. If I bought a complete car with good paint, well Id still want to transfer over all my parts. There is no way around having to do something without giving up the habit you know?

Emergency Meeting to the Satalite Office! On THE DOUBLE!

There is one very big issue I have to address with this kind of repair. Whether or not these cars were designed with crumple zones, they have crumple areas. Once crumpled they cannot be straightened without affecting your rigidity and or safety during another accident. Not that we all want to be in multiple accidents in our Z's but I think this proves it can happen. Dont get me wrong Im not saying you or anyone else is wrong, but thats not the kind of repair Id exicute. Id just replace the whole front with a donor clip and install it as a jigsaw puzzle by removing the original clip from the car in a way that locks the new clip in place. It is a lot of work. It would include the full frame rail and I would use something like bad dog Z rails to lock it in place. To be honest I have made that repair on S30 cars twice! Although for your particular repair it sounds like you made an acceptable repair by replacing the fatigued metal bits! The only way I could do that is to replace the whole front clip. When i post back with pictures it will become all to clear. http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j232/rayaapp2/Bobs%20240Z/Orange%20Crusher%20Wrecked/2012-12-04084533.jpg http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j232/rayaapp2/Bobs%20240Z/Orange%20Crusher%20Wrecked/2012-12-04084657.jpg Apparently I did not get pictures of the inner fender of the drivers side. I thought I had. Ill get some of the engine bay soon. Im really not sure what happened to this post.

ROFL, Trust me when I say "it needs replaced". This car would embody the true meaning of a totaled out vehicle to me. I can see clearly that the strut tower has been pushed in and back towards the bulk head and there is significant waving across the the inner fender and upper frame rail. The bulkhead and rear of the car is intact though. The frame of the car is visible through the engine bay and under the fender. The radiator support is about 3" farther back on the drivers side than the passenger side as measured from the bulkhead! The radiator support is buckled on the passenger side near the air duct inlet. I do not have a way of checking the bottom frame rails for alignment currently, but I ssuspect based upon the damage Ive seen that the left frame rail is not straight, and if so Id wager that the right one may have been affected through the cross member. This was a serious hit! Ive been off work for a week because of it. My passenger and I ended up with a form of whiplash. My neck and back constantly hurt, but that is another story. Im cleared to go back to work on Monday. I figure in the next couple of weeks Ill get around to dismembering the front of the car though. Ill post back so you all can see what I can see beyond what pictures can show.

So as some of you may have seen, my 72 240Z was wrecked this past week(Dec 2). The front upper frame is twisted and I suspect the lower frame rails are also out of alignment. I could take the time to replace the front clip with another from one of my donor cars. It would be an effective repair and Im fairly certain I could get the car aligned properly with little effort. I could simply start by drilling the spot welds out and melding the two halves back together. But you know while Im at it, it really makes no sense to go through all the work of carefully removing the whole front half on 2 cars just to end up with what I started with. So I have 2 options Im working with and Im going to use this thread to get some ideas from some the hybridz folks. The first option is just to start anew with another shell and go from there, which should be in my budget. Option 2 is what I would like to explore. This option would be to remove the front clip at the bulkhead completely and replace it with a tube frame. Ive not seen a lot of tube frame Z cars. I think I can remember 2 that were really done right. One of them is on Reaction Research's website. http://www.reactionresearch.com/280yz/mikemurphy.html Im by far no expert, novice, or anything in the world of tube frames, but this car is a work of art to me. It's also far above and beyond what Im suggesting here, but I really like what the geometry is doing up front. I already have an idea of the biggest hurdle I will come up with. That should be how to combine the front tube frame structurally to the original unibody. I have some ideas after stopping by Moore Speed Company of Salinas Ca, however I have not completely solved the problem. The lower frame rails can be improved upon very simply and the floor pan can be improved upon and turned into a sheer pan for rigidity. I can tie the original floor pan frame rails to the rear and box them in across the front and back of the transmission tunnel with removable cross members. I can tie the re-enforced frame rails to a square tube bottom frame rail much like the original frame rails. The top however is much harder to tie into the cars structure. I think perhaps the only way to properly share the loading is to tie it into a roll cage. I dont really need a roll cage in the car, but its the only way I can come up with a proper way to disperse the loading. If I dont tie the upper front portion of the frame in like this Im afraid it will become a point of stress that may fail or allow additional body flex to occur. I just dont have the experience to plan it out properly. If anyone has pictures please share. Pictures always help me figure stuff like this out. If I can figure out what I need to do I can determine if it will even fall into my budget. I still have to locate new front body panels, a left turn signal, left fender emblem, and engine repair/replacement. My engine rotated in the opposite direction as I had to use the clutch to bring the wrecked car to a stop. The engine was stalled out when I finally stopped, but it now does not run well and I suspect that I may have bent a valve or two. Im not really in the planning stages yet, just really trying to determine which direction i want to go down. Anyway please share anything you guys may want to share here. My budget to repair or replace the car is about $8000. This car holds some sentimental value to me or Id just go out and by another. And there is something about the challenge of repairing something like this that just makes it all that much more fun than just buying another car that I cant really explain other than Im a glutton for pain. Another thing that might be helpful is the name of someone semi local to me that does fabrication like this that may be willing to work with me. Moore Speed does this kind of work, but they are busy with a ton of current projects so I cant get in anytime in the next 6months or something. Here is what Im working with:

I have 2 options depending on insurance payout. The adjuster/rep is saying that the most likely outcome of this is a payout and I get to keep the car with a clean title. Depending on that payout will determine if I just start with a fresh shell(which there are two in the bay area right now for about $1K) or tube frame/cage this car and dump a VK56 in it. I should be starting to get somewhere with an answer by the end of next week when the insurance looks at the packet of information I sent them that trumps their CCCValuescope report.

Wow, that sucks. Will keep an eye out in the south bay/monterey bay if it made it that far. Hopefully its still close to home and he gets it back. It appears to be a pretty distinct Z. I will be upping my coverage on 2 of my cars early next year when they hit the road again. Ray

I think Im the Rat... which sounds distasteful to me, but eh. It turns out this guy had already paid of this 2007 Toyota Sienna. So he only has Liability and a $10K payout total and Geico wants to include the rental in that payout. Since I did this before, Im taking the guy to court. FYI: because I know this will help somebody, IF anyone gets into a wreck in their 240 or 260Z and the insurance company uses CCC Valuescope, well you are boned my friend. They found 2 240Zs and 2 260Z's NATION WIDE for which to compare a value to! I dont know how they get that information only that it does not work in your advantage. IF you get Michell Valuation you will be in a much better position as they are more accurate. Something I have learned between these 3 past incidences this year! Ray

Check out a "Hub Tamer Elite" Never struggle with wheel bearings again. Expensive tool, but one worth having in your arsenal if you do wheel bearings once a week. An air hammer works too I suppose.