z-ya

In your first post you said you didn't know a lot about engines. Now you are going to do a Megasquirt swap? Doing a Megasquirt swap is not easy, and even if you get lucky and you do everything correct from the start (which you probably won't), you will then have to tune it for the NA motor you have now.Tuning is best done on a dyno, but you can probably drive around town for a few years and get it running close to the way it runs with the stock ECU. This is a complete waste of time! My suggestion is to swap the complete L28ET, harness, ECU, AFM, etc. Get that running well. You may actually be satisfied with the performance. You can run 10PSI with the stock setup, and it will be reliable, and fast. And, if you have problems, you can either fix it yourself using the factory service manual, or find an experienced mechanic to help you. Then, if you decide to go whole hog on standalone EMS, cam, new turbo, etc, etc, you got a knowledge base to work with. I have installed many Megasquirts, and other commercial standalone systems. It is not easy, and I hate to see people get over their head from the get go. It happens all the time. Pete

Start consevative on timing. Like low 20s at 8psi. Like I always say, calibrate your timing before you do anything. I would think that you could reach your goal at 15psi. But it is not just going to happen. Plan on spending some time on the dyno. I am assuming you have a WB O2? If not, get one.

As far as I know, there is no rear cross member that will allow you to use that cover without modification. On my race car I had to make one.

Hi Everyone, I am getting things together for my next project. I am finally getting around to restoring my Silver 240Z which has seen lots of track duty over the past 10 years. I plan on turning into a nice street car that borders on race. I really like the YZ280 rear flares, so I have been working with John at Reaction Research to integrate the stock fuel door into these flares. I'm not into the Le Mans style gas cap, and there is no way I am filling a fuel cell through the hatch on a street car. I will be using the stock gas tank, and according to john, I will need to extend the fuel hose a bit. I think in the end it will still look like a Z, but on steroids. This will be a new option that everyone can order on these flares. Here are some pics from John:

Jon, Do you have the RR YZ280 flares in the rear, or the IMSA? Got any pics? Thanks, Pete

You're all set then

More photos:

Miata eater

Video of engine: http://youtu.be/zEt7p8en15s

Taking it to a track day in October. Going to the alignment shop tonight.

The 240Z R180 front support will work fine with an R200. You just need the mustache bar. Sorry, I don't have one....

Clear powder coat. Any coating on a bolt will get ruined as soon as you put a wrench on it. The other option is to hide it away in a climate controlled storage unit .

I've never seen a S30 with Cragar SS wheels. They look cool on a S30. What 5 lug hubs are you runnning?

John, So you mean all they did was balance an blueprint it? So if everything is stock, then how did they get over 50HP more than stock? Pete

I would not run the Mobil 1 in a solid lifter engine. You better off running Valvoline VR1 conventional. It's cheaper too. The cam looks great BTW.

Any 3/8 drill will spin the shaft fast enough to see oil from the spray bar alone, internally oiled cam alone, or both. Done it many times.Make sure you have the drill turning in the right direction. I don't remember what is the correct rotation, try both. You will know when you start sucking oil as the load on the drill will increase. If you can't get oil to the top end with a drill, it's time to take it apart and find the blockage.

Joe, There is nothing wrong with the using the SDS system, or ITBs on a turbo setup. Changing EFI systems at this point will just introduce a new set of problems. It looks to me that you have planned and executed a nice build so far. I would first double check all you electrical connections. Check for continuity for all connections between the ECU and sensors. Look for loose pins and or poor crimps in all connectors. Check for any bare (exposed) connections that may short to adjacent pins and or ground/drain/shield wires. Next I would check all the ECU settings, like injector opening time, and make sure the TPS is calibrated. Also check timing with a light to verify that it is also calibrated. Work on basic drivability first. Idling, basic driving. Once you get it to that point, then bring it to the dyno to push it hard. Over 10 years ago I built my Wolf 3D based turbo build. It took me close to two years and three dyno sessions to get all the kinks out of it. In the end it turned out to be a super reliable an fund to drive build. It still runs as awesome today as it did 8 years ago (many track days and time trials later). It takes time to get all the gremlins out of a build like this. Stay persistent, and don't get discouraged. Pete

Maybe it is the springs I have on this head. They are stiffer than stock/

I had coil bind on an E31 with L28 (N47) valves and a .530 Isky cam. It wasn't a regrind, it was ground from a fresh core. Maybe that is why I had a problem with binding.

I built a 9:1 L28 for a club member with that cam. He is very happy with it. If I remember correctly the power band is from 2K to 6k RPM. Perfect for a street motor without forged pistons. The other good thing with this cam is that the stock springs and valves can be used. You only need new lash pads. To run .540 lift it is required to run performance springs. You also need to cut the spring perches or run custom longer valves, otherwise the springs will bind (bottom out).

The engine is worth $100 if it is not seized and is usable, but the trans is probably worth a $100. I'd offer him $200 for the package.

I kind of like how they molded ZG flares on what look to be fiberglass street flares. Cool.

I have had used head bolts snap on occasion. Other than that, I have not had any issues when using stock head bolts. I agree with Tony, use oil for stock head bolts. If the threads have a lot of corrosion on them, replace them because they won't torque properly. If you are using ARP studs, use the lube that comes with them.

Wheels and tires? The RBRs are a lot heavier, and probably not as strong. Yea, you won't win a beauty contest with these wheels, but they won't break on you either. It is NHMS (New Hampshire Motor Speedway). Fresh brake fluid, and high performance pads up front.

Yea, I agree, they are not the prettiest wheels. At high speed, and with brake dust, they look great They are strong an light though. $425 + shipping?