z-ya

I'd be worrying about the front frame rails flexing. You got some serious rust issues in the front frame rail area.

The other option is to get a GM TBI setup. You may have to make an adapter plate, but it would make a nice setup. When I built my superchaged setup a while back I used a TB from a Jeep and an adapter plate. I welded injector bosses in the manifold. It worked great until I melted some pistons on the track.

Looking for good used 280Z driver's door mirror. Thanks, Pete

I have a complete front end, from the radiator support forward.

Here is what my orange car looked like with 225-50ZR15 tires on 15x8 zero offset wheels. The problem is that there are not a lot of tire choices anymore in this size. You can get DOT competition tires, and then Falken. That's about it. I've got this set of P1 Racing wheels that are 15x8 with a 5" back space. They require coil overs, but they tuck nicely inside stock fenders. They are for sale if anyone is interested. PM me.

I have a set. Front and rear. LMK if you want them.

I think the engine in my 260Z is good. I pulled the plugs and cranked it over, and nothing furry came out . It is super clean under the cam cover, and so is the oil. I'll start a project thread when I start doing significant work on it.

Joe, Great project. Do you still have the L6 in there? I was given this 260Z. It's an early 74' with 24k miles on it. Still has the inspection sticker from 1985! It's had some animals living in it, but I'm planning on just getting it running and driving as a survivor for now. It's all there, and all original. It came out of CT, and I think it was purchased from the Bob Sharp dealership because it has the dealer option front and rear spoilers (took front one off for transport)

Nice work Derek. What are you planning for intake and exhaust manifolds?

I believe the stock deck height of an L28 is 0.030", so as long as you are less than that, you can use a stock head gasket.

I've been studying up on air to water intercoolers, and I think they are a great alternative for street cars, and the make for a much cleaner install. I've already done the air to air in the past, so I am looking to try something new. So I have been thinking about how to integrate the A2W IC into an L6 manifold some how. I've attached a photoshopped rendition. Keep in mind the orientation of the IC will probably change to clear the fender well. The TB may also be located under the IC so it is a straight shot from the turbo. I'm looking for a clean install, with minimal plumbing. I've also considered ITBs between the IC and intake. But a single TB would certainly be cheaper and a lot less moving parts. Comments?

That puts you around 15.5:1 with a stock gasket thickness. Even with the 2mm gasket, I had to shape to piston domes to clear the combustion chamber. Even after filing the piston domes, I still has the pistons kissing the head at high RPMs. I also had to index the spark plugs with copper washers. There isn't a lot of room left with a 12cc dome in a early E31 combustion chamber. This is why I'm curious to see which E88 is on this engine.

If you are road racing, you can start with an accusump to see if it fixes any starvation problem. If you are just looking for bling under the car, then I would get a stock one powdercoated to your liking.

I'd be interested in seeing the combustion chamber of the E88 head. The race motor I built had Cosworth domed pistons and a Bob Sharp head that was cut and the combustion chambers reworked. It was an L28 with stock stroke and 87mm bore. I cc'd the pistons (12cc) and combustion chamber (37cc). This got me to a CR of 13.5:1 with a 2mm gasket. The domes on the Cosworth pistons are huge, so I am wondering where they got 15:1 from you motor.

Blown head gasket is good in this situation. It blew instead of piston ring lands. These are domed forged pistons. Most likely they are OK considering the head gasket blew. But I do see where a valve made contact with the piston. You may have a bent valve. Can you send pics of the combustion chamber? Looks like a pretty cool barn find. Aside from the lack of Carillo rods, it looks like it was built as advertised. The compression ratio is probably too high for pump gas, this is probably how they blew the gasket. Depending on what was done to the head, the CR is probably in the 12.5 to 13.5:1 range.

Before you cut up your tank, swap the pump. It sounds like the pump can't keep the pressure up at higher volumes.

Sounds very healthy!

The RAMAIR filters do not have a spring, but the hole is quite small, so they get a very good grip on Mikuni horns. Probably the same for Weber horns.

According to Dave Rebello, running one of those style air boxes is detrimental to max power. He recommends the ITG or another open air style filter. There was around a 10HP difference on the 3.2L he built for John Jeffery. John has now switched back to the ITG setup. I run these RAMAIR filters on my Datsun 1200. They slip on and off easy, and stay on, even with rubber chunks flying around the engine compartment on the track: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-x-RAMAIR-Carb-Sock-Air-Filters-MG-MGC-MGC-GT-6cyl-Weber-40-DCOE-/390873883975?hash=item5b01e62547&vxp=mtr

I have two. Let me know if you are interested.

Over my head....

So what you are saying is that in very dry conditions there is more radiant heat absorbed into the air from the tarmac, raising the ambient air temperature. In more humid regions, less of that tarmac heat radiates into the air. This reduces the air temperature crossing the radiator.

I've never had an issue on the track or street (and anywhere in between) with my 300WHP turbo car. Not endurance races, just 30 minute sessions. Stock long block and cheap aftermarket replacement radiator. Still had the heater core connected as well. I've run many track events with this car with ambient temps over 85F and never had the coolant temps go over 200F. The oil temps got a bit too high (280F). So are you saying that 85F in the desert is hotter than 85F in New Hampshire? When I get to the point where I can't keep it cool, I'll consider that mod, but until then, I'll just keep running what is working.

Finally got it on the track. Did a time trial last weekend. Still needs sorting, but it is really fun to drive. http://trackattackapp.com/?raceid=9bd0f97c-1aff-41ab-9ea9-e45c79ce7340&lapid=2ce4ad56-4a54-4a52-8198-4a4279c48c43

Thought you guys might like my cute little 1200 . It's only making power from 6k to 8k at this point. Carbs need tuning. The smart phone doesn't like the solid mounted motor. Need a better camera mount. I agree Tony, over lets say 400HP, I would agree. Especially if it will see track time. For the street, it is probably not needed.