z-ya

Any negative effects of zinc on WB O2 sensors?

You can order the fenders with the headlight buckets already integrated BTW.

Megasquirt is not a drop in replacement. You will need to make a new harness, and then spend a lot of time tuning the MS. If the engine is stock, then I would stick with the stock EFI. You may need to pull the harness, peel back all the tape, and look at all wires and connectors. ECUs are plentiful, so pickup a spare and try that as well.

HI John, Are you implying that oils with less than 1980ppm ZDDP are catalytic converter safe? Thanks, Pete

Here are some used non-gnose ones: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-FAIRLADY-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-HEADLIGHT-COVERS-JDM-/310840767109?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item485f8db285

240SX Suspension in an S30? My question is: WHY? All that hacking, cutting, welding, and in the end you have car you should not even drive on the street, never mind take on a track. If you want a track car, strip that shell you have and throw it away. Get a clean unmolested shell and upgrade the stock suspension. There all sorts of suspension goodies available for the stock S30 chassis. You CAN make an S30 chassis handle, and you can do it all with bolt on parts!

I am assuming that you can just square the camber plat to the firewall as well. The only thing I don't like about the T3 plates is that they are really too thick to bend them easily to conform with the strut top like the AZC ones. I haven't installed my T3 plates yet, but I'll let you all know how it goes when I do.

I'm planning on going with large flares in the rear. I will relocate the stock fuel door to the flare, and then use a 280Z fuel filler because it is all metal, and aftermarket fuel filler hose can be easily attached to it. I'm going more a stock look.

I have one of those older front reproduction bumpers, and the chrome is thin. The bumper is brand new, never mounted. It rusted sitting indoors....

You can chrome stainless. If you are looking for a chrome finish that won't rust, that is the only way to do it. Even highly polished stainless won't look exactly like chrome. So my understanding is that the Black Dragon ones are chome plated steel. There are also stainless ones being sold on Ebay which are just polished.

Do we know for sure that they are stainless? Are they chrome plated stainless or polished?

I like how they are not drilled for the rubber. Much nicer looking.

Or, you can just get the line with the banjo on one end, and the -3 on the other. Make sure you have clearance between the stainless line and the body when the suspension is fully compressed. I Found out the hard way that the body was rubbing the line, and eventually caused it to leak. I lost rear brakes going into turn 6 at Loudon. I saved it, but what an eye opener

We are running a stock OEM pump now. No issues. Block must of had a crack in it that started to open up once the engine got past 180F. I've run stock pumps on my turbo car an never had cooling issues on the track. IMO the diesel pump is only needed for extreme racing applications. The stock OEM L28 pump moves plenty of fluid for most all applications.

What about using a couple thin coats of urethane bedliner?

Are the cam towers shimmed? Was the topside of the head ever resurfaced? It's a lot of work, but you may want to put a stock cam and lash pads back in there just as a test (you should be real good at it by now )

What cam is it? Do you have the cam card? I hate to sound like a broken record here, but try setting the lash at the lash cap according to the cam card. Or call the cam mfg, they can tell you where, and how much.

I have the front clip cut and ready to weld up on my car. It is not very heavy. I don't think you could save all that much weight. I am having U shaped inserts bent up to slid into the frame rails to align them and also give more material to make welding easier.

You may need to cut a little off the top of the piston depending on which head gasket you are using. You can now get a stock thickness big bore Cometic gasket. So I would shoot for a stock deck height (~+0.030" above deck).

I am doing exactly the same job to my turbo car. It has been hit 3 times in the front, and has an aftermarket radiator support that was brazed in. So I have a nice front end that is straight. I was planning on using the line where the strut tower is spot welded as a guide. It will also provide more material to make welding easier. I will also have a backing plate to prevent blow through. I am having inserts for the frame rails made to assist in alignment. After the new front end is welded on, I will take it to the frame shop for tweaking if needed. I'll take some pics and post them.

I would also suggest setting the lash at the lash cap. I had a similar issue with a Norris regrind. Setting the lash at the lobe resulted in a lot of noise, and in the end, too much clearance. I called Norris and their cams are ground in a way that the lash should always be measured at the lash cap. I set the lash per his instructions, and now valvetrain noise is normal.

Are you checking the lash at the cam lobe or the lash pad?

Watch the video in this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115656-star-road-fairlady-360hp-l28-o/ They are bolt on, but they are painted the same color as body for a similar effect.

I think it looks great in the color it is painted now. I would improve the car in other areas like braking, handling, and performance.

Yes. PM me your address. Thanks.