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Thanks for the clarkes discount tip. Great prices! Pete

Yes, the ITM pistons are good. You can get them elsewhere for cheaper. The part numbers are: ry6134 std bore ry6134-020 +20 over ry6134-030 +30 over ry6134-040 +40 over

it's painted now, and starting to come together: I plan on doing vintage racing and the occasional time trial with it.

You are on the right track. This is what I would suggest: - Flat tops - P90 head with fresh vavle job - Choose a street cam with 460 or less lift so you can use the stock valve springs. Something with an advertised power band of 2000 to 6000RPM - New, correct thickness lash pads to match your new cam - SUs with SM needles - Header This setup should allow you to run upwards of 35 degrees of total advance on pump gas. Don't shave the P90 head anymore than to just get it clean and flat. Properly tuned, this setup will make 200 crank HP all day. Pete

I had a similar problem with an E31 head that I had 280Z valves installed in The machinist cut the stock exhaust seats to fit the 280Z valves, but had to install new 280Z intake seats. The problem was that now the exhast valve sat almost 40 thousands closer to the camshaft. Not as bad as what you are seeing, but to the point where you couldn't fit a 14mm wrench on the post when the lash was correct, so you couldn't tightned them down. It also offset the rocker wipe pattern to the point wher eit was just about off the pad. The correct way to fix this is to install new exhasut seats and machine them so that the inake and exhaust retainer heights are within a few thousands of each other. The assembled spring heights should match the FSM. The other issue with just machining the valve seats deeper into the head is that now the spring height is different, and therfore so is the spring pressure. So you end up having to shim the springs more to keep the same pressure. If you try to shim the cam towers to fix it, it will have a negative effect on timing chain tension, and cam timing, nevermind screwing up the rocker wipe pattern on the intake valves.

You don't have to do anything to the distributor or ignition system.

It costs about $3000 in labor to make an E31 into something that can flow enough to make in excess of 300HP on a 2.8L. This is by hand of course, using a reference head as a guide. Maybe a little less if you have done a bunch of them and you can recall it all from "old white guy" memory.

Each carb has a return spring wound around the throttle shaft. I added one more from one of the linkage arms to the cam cover:

Just the rods, turbo and pistons cost almost $4000 new.

This is not the one AZC sells today. It is made in Taiwan as per writing on the box.

I have the AZ one on my vintage racer, and I am also using the AZ clutch. I believe that they are all made at the same factory in Taiwan. So far no problems. If I remember correctly the AZ clutch is more like a Z32 clutch than L6. It has twice the number of bolt holes as an L6 pressure plate, and the flywheels has tapped holes holes that match. Anyway, it's a great setup IMO.

Engine management running closed loop with wide band O2 and a catalytic converter.

I am assuming that the best you can get at the pump in CA is 91? I agree with JohnC, run around 9:1 CR, and run more timing. Run flat tops with a P90 and 1mm gasket.

I'm looking for a backing plate from a manual transmission for an RB series engine. This is the plate that goes between the engine and transmission. Thanks, Pete

If you are planning on running the motor over 6000RPM for long periods of time, forged is the only way to go. Weisco, Ross, JE, etc. They can make you whatever you want.

race, or street use? For street I would use OEM Nissan cast pistons. For race, choose one of the many forged piston makers, they all make them for the KA24E.

Did you check with Wolf Creek Racing? He should be able to get what you need.

You can tower shims should be equal to what you shave. Less than 0.020 shave, I wouldn't worry about it. Derek (on this forum), can make you some shims. I wouldn't worry about the slight change in CR.

Is the head shaved much? Have you shimmed the cam towers at all? are you running a stock thickness head gasket? What I am getting to is if the distance from the cam center to the crank center is just about stock, then just time the cam as you would normally do to take up any stretch in the chain. In other words, don't advance or retard the cam. From your cam specs it looks like it is a non-symetrical cam, so you can't use my directions from the "How to Degree Your Cam..." thread. My point is just to get the cam as close to being "straight up" as possible, and then tune your Megasquirt. Until you have your timing and AFR tuned, you can't assume that the reason it isn't running good is cam timing. Once you getting it running decent, and the AFRs are correct across the VE table, then start experimenting with cam timing. I am also assuming that you are running dished pistons. If you are not, be careful changing cam timing! Pete

It really depends on your application and the ambient temperature you run at. If you run at all in cool weather, no need for 20W50.

For a street L6 I would run the Valvoline VR-1, as it has High zinc/phosphorus content, and is reasonably inexpensive. Pick the weight according to the climate you live in. For my vintage racer I use the Brad Penn 20W50. Sticky, gooey, good stuff. If you buy by the case, not too expensive. The Joe Gibbs is probably just as good, but I think Joe is getting a big chunk of the purchase price as his name is on it.

If you look at the table again, it says that the "overall length" is 114.3mm, and the tip is 3mm. So these are in fact the short ones. But why do you want the short ones? The E88 came with the longer valves, and longer valves give you more travel before the spring binds, which is important for high lift cams. The sharp head I have has custom valves that are 2mm longer than the stock "long" valves. You can compensate for the long valves by shimming the cam towers to keep the rocker arm geometry correct. They also machine the spring seat for more travel. What I want to know is if Ferrea makes stock long lengths. They can make whatever length you want. It's only money, right?

I navigated through the cometic site and ended up here: http://www.shopengineparts.com/parts.aspx?eid=965&cid=24&type=engine&vtype=Import&make=Nissan&model=L-Series+Inline+6 Looks like they are available from Cometic.

Cometic is now making L28 head gaskets? Awesome! Last I spoke with them they we not planning on doing the tooling to produce these. Founds this: http://www.shopengineparts.com/parts.aspx?eid=965&cid=24&type=engine&vtype=Import&make=Nissan&model=L-Series+Inline+6 You can probably have someone punch a hole there that has a punch press. If it is coolant, you are probably OK as it looks like there is another coolant hole just opposite the blocked one.

Autocrossing on those Goodyear road race slicks must be a challenge. It takes at least 2 warmup laps on a roar course at speed to make them sticky. They certainly look cool though.