z-ya

You don't need a gasket. What gasket set are you using? I've never seen a cam chain tensioner gasket.

I used pop rivets and adhesive. The bare metal has to be epoxy primed, then scuffed before panel bonding.

the problem with rear mount is all that plumbing: oil, compressor in, and compressor out. It's like having two more exhaust pipes. Turbo manifolds are easy to find. I have at least 4 of them if you need one.

I like your project. Do you have a build thread going? Nice work on the LS mounts BTW.

I used the Fusor 127EZ to bond my fiberglass flares. You need to prime the bare steel with epoxy primer. They aren't coming off easily....

Here ya go

If you eliminate the expansion tank and associated hoses, you may not be able to completely fill the tank with fuel. All those hoses are not only for temperature expansion, but also to eliminate air pockets in the tank which will prevent you from filling it completely with fuel. I know this for a fact as I once converted my expansion tank to a surge tank, but I could only about 12 gal of fuel in it, so I reconnected it as an expansion tank and then I could fit the full 16 gal in. Pete

I got mine from my machinist, but for some reason he made it from steel instead of aluminum (he is a bit old school, Lincoln V12 old school that is). It is 3" thick, so it is heavy. The shipping costs may be too high to make it worth it. I would want a $400 deposit, $50 for the rental, and you pay shipping both ways.

Moving this conversation to a PM.

Dave, I see you've joined the northeast jack stand racing team! That spoiler looks sweet in white. We've got Brian's tow hooks on the race car too. Also doing a spoiler upgrade this winter:

While you have it apart again, I would have the rods checked and resized if needed. This is key to any rebuild. The rods may be the source if the height difference. I would have your machinist check the pistons as well.

Detonation. If you are running stock headgasket, you will be blowing them. If you use a metal gasket, you will be breaking pistons. To run flat tops and an N series head you mush have a good tune (~13:1 AFR), and you must also run premium fuel. Depending on the cam, you will also have to back off the timing. With a stock cam plan on running around 25-26 deg of advance. Head work and a stout cam will let you do what Dan has done. You sound a bit like a Newbie to all this, so I would just rebuild the motor with the dish pistons as a learning exercise. Dan: SPA here you come!

I would start in the # 1 hole. Set the lash and check the wipe pattern. Then check the cam timing. Do you have the cam card? If the timing is good, I would run it as is. If the timing is off, adjust it as well as you can with the sprocket you have. I was able to get very close with a Nismo adjustable sprocket. If you have shaved the head and shimmed the towers, and or are running a non stock head gasket thickness, you really need to verify the cam timing.

Oh no, not again.... Dan, nice to see you back on HybridZ. Still got the Z? Pete

Bored 0.030" over with 2mm larger pistons? I don't think they would fit Sounds like a hack job to me.

And, you can use inexpensive OEM gaskets if you machine the pistons.

Tomei is an alternative to the more expensive Kameari gaskets. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tomei-Head-Gasket-Nissan-L6-90-5-1-2mm-/330658590661?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cfcc9afc5

John Jeffery has a couple of them.

Amazing project!

From your original post, I guess I don't understand what the problem is. You just want to evacuate crankcase fumes through the engine? And this is your track car, right? Why not just vent the valve cover and block to the atmosphere through a filter? Why evacuate at all? This is what I did: I have a drain petcock on the bottom of the can, and a K&N style filter on the top. Both the valve cover and crankcase tie into the can. Have not had any issues whatsoever with this setup. Pete

Yes of course... it's been a long day. Fixed.

Exactly, just run it, the rust won't be there for long. Just make sure the oil holes in the cam are not plugged.

I talked to him yesterday. I'm calling it his Bridgeport cup holder at this point. He is working on it in his spare time. He said June.... Call Mckinney Motorsports, they have an RB plate that I used on my build. $50 rental plus shipping.

Didn't realize they were used. Good use for them. What club do you vintage race with? Do they allow the EFI? I'd love to ditch my Mikunis for EFI, but VRG and SVRA don't allow it.

I'm not sure if I would use those expensive MLS gaskets for mockup. I'd wait until final assembly to use the selected MLS gasket. You might be able to find precision shim washers to match the compressed thickness of the MLS gaskets to use for mockup. From what I have seen the HKS and Kameari MLS gasket advertised compressed thickness is pretty much dead on. Then of course check you valve timing and piston the valve clearance when doing the mockup.