z-ya

What will the minimum piston to bore clearance be using the worst out of round measurement, not the average? After the rings seat?

Installing a 15/16" MC on a Z with stock brakes will only increase pedal pressure, making it feel like the brakes are not working very well. Stick with the 7/8" MC when running stock brakes. Even with the 240SX rear disc conversion.

Basically I did what most suggest for bedding new pads. Do a hand full of near-stops from 50-60mph to about 10-15 mph. Do it by pressing the brakes firmly, but not hard enough to lock the wheels. At the end of each slowdown, accelerate back to 60mph and then apply the brakes again. After bedding when you come to a stop remove your foot from the pedal, shut off the engine, a put the car in gear instead of using the parking brake. Allow the brakes to cool.

I have the R4S on my street Z. No issues. Firm pedal, good bite.

Is that a little radioactive glow coming from those parts Seriously, nice build you got going. Pete

Just to show the deck finish. Ummm, the coolant holes on the copper gasket line up with the holes on the block and the head, so there are none being blocked by the head gasket. Yes, you order the thickness and bore size. I don't know about you, but I've spent more on this engine than any other I have ever built. Even though I got the head, crank, rods, and pistons for free. Between, Swain coating, cryo treating, polishing, machining, etc. etc., I've got a lot in this motor.

It's one big fire ring.

Pistons are in. I'm using s Total Seal moly top ring with two piece gapless cast 2nd. Deck clearance matches a document I have written for the BSR C Production engine. Got the gasket from Hussey. Fits really nicely. No coolant between block and head are block. I shouldn't need to do any trimming. $90 shipped. Found this little feeler gauge set. Perfect for measuring lash or determining what lash pads to run: First I took a stock las pad and brazed the recess on the bottom, then ground it flat: Then I smoothed any wear on the top of the stock lash pad: Then I used the little feeler gauge at the lash pad to add height to the modified lash pad, and a normal feeler gauge to set the valve lash: Then check the wipe pattern. Repeat until you get the wipe pattern on the rocker pad. Closer to the pivot pin is better. Safe is right in the middle. Mine turned out to 0.168". So I'm going with 0.170".

I found this mini feeler gauge set for you guys running Rebello cams: http://www.oem-tools.com/products/show/25341 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BYD93U/?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER I'm getting a set to figure out what lash pad to run on my build.

You are correct if you have an endmill or a punch and are running a thicker gasket. If your gasket is the thinner variety, and all you have a drill, you will most likely ruin the gasket trying to drill new holes in it. You could probably sandwich it between two pieces of aluminum or something to keep it from deforming. Any bending or warpage of the copper gasket will probably make it not seal very well.

Thanks John.

The stickies (pinned) topics are missing from the Nissan L6 forum.

Four bolts on Chevy main caps are to keep the caps from moving, not breaking. The Chevy blocks are not notched like the Nissan blocks. So you need a lot more clamping force on a Chevy block to keep the caps from moving. The Nissan main cap fit snugly into a recess machined in the block.

Exactly my suggestion. Why is it people don't try Nissan for for a stock item?

In the car: I was going for this look: Above is the interior of the Bob Sharp C production car Paul Newman drove.

Copper, not so easy.

Hussey makes two L6 copper gaskets in basically whatever thickness you want. See attached images. NIS-01 is the N42 style NIS-05 is the P79 style with some trimming to contour the cylinders The message I got from JR at GMT Racing (he worked on the Bob Sharp team), is pretty much what Tony is saying. Get as much into the head as possible, and then restrict the flow on the outlet. A flow restriction at the thermostat outlet is where they did it. 3/4" to be exact (from JRs memory). They ran a stock Nissan N42 gasket with an E31 head. They cut grooves in the block for copper wire just outside the gasket fire ring. They never blew a gasket running over 13.5:1 CR. Pete

This is the tach I am using: It clamps to the steering column. I decided to use an external tach to keep the dash height low for better visability. I also wanted a 5" tach. I sprayed the dash with bedliner. Pete

Here is my dash so far. Each circuit has a resetable circuit breaker. The tach is a column mount that sits in the blank space between the switches and the gauges. Switches are: IGN Pump 1 Pump 2 Wipers Fan Lamp near oil pressure gauge is low pressure warning.

Is the notch on the top of the piston pointing to the front of the engine?

That's not the same car.

A picture would help. Either 1 or 5 degrees per notch. Beth way to know for sure is get the engine at TDC and check it.

My concern is the white smoke before you blew the head gasket. So either the head gasket was already leaking, or you do have a leak in the water jacket.

Usually pressure testing a head means testing the water jacket for leaks. If you were blowing white smoke before this happened, then the leak your machinist is talking about is between the water jacket and the intake or exhaust port. So this means that your head is junk. You could use the head from the L24, but it has smaller valves. You could still use it though. Pete

Hey David, I knew Swain was in your neck of the woods, but not that close. How is the coating holding up on your headers? These are NOS Cosworth pistons that had an older coating on them. Swain removed the old coating. Good as new now. Ron, bring your check book 8^)... The rods alone go for $300 each at Summit Racing.