z-ya

Really? All the S30 hood hinges I've seen have been cadium plated

Exactly. I've seen plenty of people with good intentions take an L28 apart to "rebuild" it, just to end up with a big pile of sh*t in the end. The last one was an L6 that couldn't retain it's bodily fluids on the dyno (blowing coolant and oil everywhere). But boy, that metal head gasket he "had" to put in was working great. There is nothing you need to do to the bottom end of these engines to produce a reliable 300WHP. And guess what, the folks at Nissan that built these motors knew what they were doing. What about cylinder ridges? Are there any? If not, you are wasting $ doing anything to that short block besides seals and gaskets. Check the rod and main bearing cap torque, put in new seals, gaskets, core plugs, and timing set (if needed), and spend your money on the head, turbo (if you are going that way), and engine management. Pete

This is Roostmonkey's car. I think he used some auto parts store universal amber lights for turn signals. They fit pretty good into the air dam ducts. Pete

For any rebuild for a turbo motor over 15psi I would just go with forged. At 15psi a stock long block will make between 300 and 320WHP. This is really the safe limit for cast pistons. Chances are, you are going to want more, so just go with forged and forget about it. jc052685 is right on the tune. The wrong tune with cast pistons at 15psi will either blow head gaskets (depending on what you use) or cast pistons.

Verify the timing with a timing, it's the only way to be sure it's calibrated. It is amazing how many people make this assumption. Live an learn, right?

Sure, for a price, and plenty of attitude. My one experience with them was not all that great. Again, lots of attitude, and a high price.

Yes, with a few exceptions: - Cheap cork valve cover gaskets aren't worth anything. Get an Nissan or FelPro multi-layer one. - Cork oil pan gaskets are OK but there are multi-layer versions out there that are much better. I've had good luck with aftermarket head gaskets. Anything made by ITM, Ishino (OEM), Rock Gasket, are pretty good. Nissan is always your best bet, but cost the most. Everything else including main and timing cover seals work fine from aftermarket sets. Same with valve seals, no problems that I have encountered.

Lengine calculates the CR to be ~9.3:1. First of all, this is much too high for a turbo motor with an N or E series head. I'd only attempt that CR with a P series head, and even then, the static CR is probably too high. 8.5:1 max. Also, did you calibrate your ignition system? For example, is 20BTC really 20BTC? Pete

Bud, you are going to get slammed with a post like that. This subject has been covered at least 100 times on this forum. Asking us to write you a list is just a rehashing of everything ever posted about this swap, and it is a big waste of everyone's (except yours) time. Do the research work yourself, don't ask others to do it for you. In other words..........

Rock Auto is a good one. What can't you find? I have never seen a complete rebuild kit for an L series. I've always bought the parts separately. Norther Auto Parts is a good source: FULL GASKET SET 09-00521 $65.66 Connecting Rod Bearing 6-67230CP $22.68 MAIN BEARING SET 7M1172-10 $39.52 PISTON & RING RY2700 $207.30 OIL PUMP 057-160 $49.89 TIMING KIT 9-4134SA $87.05 I looked these up for an 83 280ZX. I'm in Windham, NH, let me know if I can help. I have a bunch of engine parts you might be able to use.

How far front? The L24 pans have a sump that is more central than the L28.

Thanks Tony. Been there, done that (Taipei Airport lounge, waiting board the first of two "red-eyes" on my way home to Boston). PM Sent

John, Any suggestions on the windage tray? Do I need one? Thanks, Pete

My understanding is that RB20, RB25 clutches are essentially Z32 NA clutches. The flywheels may be the same as well. Seems like all of the flywheels and clutches they used during those years are the same except for the Z32TT and RB26DETT. I have a Z32 NA clutch on my RB25 flywheel and it works fine.

We have stumbled on what we think is a Nissan Competition oil pan. What I don't have is the windage tray. Firstly, do you think we need one for road racing? Secondly, doe anyone have photos of a similar pan with the windage tray installed? From the photos below you can see where it bolted in. Also notice connecting rod dents (ouch).

How much torque is your turbo L24 making? The fact you are using a 225mm flywheel probably has nothing to do with the slippage. Probably it's just a weak pressure plate. I've seen L28 turbos make over 330ft-lbs at the wheels with a 225mm Fidanza flywheel and Centerforce clutch. Sounds to me like you just need a better clutch. As far as using an RB30 flywheel on an L series, has anyone taken measurements to confirm that it will work (diameter, tooth pitch, offset, etc.)? Pete

I modified the stock mounts that came on the motor. I don't have too many m ore pictures. I will update my build thread again soon. Been working on the stock wiring lately. Can't get the turn signals to work.

Figure basic machining costs to be in the $2000 to $2500 range. This should include: - Cleaning - Balancing - Boring - Check block and head for cracks/leaks/flatness - basic 3 angle valve job and resurface - check/resize rods - Press new pistons on rods Any port work would be additional. Forged pistons and aftermarket rods are a waste of money on an NA street motor. Use Nissan OEM KA24 pistons and L24 9mm rods. If you want to just have someone do the head up for you with port work etc., figure $2500 including cam, rockers, springs, lash pads etc. I recently got this figure from an engine builder that built engines for the Bob Sharp team.

If you have the "Require Fuel" set according to you injector size and displacement, then go to the VE table and adjust the active bin (and surrounding ones) until you get a smooth idle. As far a a hickup, do you have EGO enabled? If so, turn it off for now. What injectors are you using? Look at the injector spread sheet sticky and use the settings there if your inejctor is in the table.

K is peanut plug size (5/8") projected tip. Should be fine. I have many 10 packs of 10 BCP7ES if anyone is looking for a "7" heat range, projected tip, non resistor.

NGK BPR6ES-11 (projected resistor) BR6ES-11 (resistor) or B6ES-11. Projected or non projected tip are fine for a street Z. I've run projected tip plugs in a flat top motor with an N47 without any issues.

Beefy.