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I run 16x8 with a 5" BS without any spacers and 245 width tires and I have no problems with rubbing at all. I turn the wheel full lock each direction without any rubbing. Pete

Do you meant the "correct" offset, or "available" offset? To tuck the wheels in as much as possible: Correct without coil overs is a 4.5" BS Correct with coil overs is 5.0: BS What is available in the RB: 17x9.5 -19mm offset = 4.5" BS 17x8.5 +4mm offset = 4.9" BS (won't fit without coil overs) 17x9 -13mm offset = 4.5" BS

Metalic? I would say 2003 350Z Daytona Blue is pretty close.

Just kidding.... Agent Orange, that is a good one.... Thread jack over.

So what are you really trying to say?

It should be, but I find that you can really smooth out the idle by adjusting the required fuel before tuning the VE table. It is basically moving the entire fuel map, so don't change it after tuning the VE table.

Exactly.

My doors were worse than that. I'm happy with how they look now. Nice work. I know about runs in the clear. I blended my rear quarter over the weekend and it came out great except for the runs in the clear coat. What was the procedure you used to sand out the runs? Are you concerned with panels not matching because you are painting the car piece meal? I guess if you are consistent with the same primer, same color lot code, same number of color and clear coats you shouldn't have a problem. Hopefully I don't as I has to re-paint one door, the hatch, and one front fender. Everything else was done all at the same time. I'll know when I get it all together and out of the garage. Pete

First, be sure that the timing in the timing table matches what you measure with a timing light. Play with the required fuel to get it warmed up and idling smooth. Then set the timing bin where the engine is idling to 10 deg. Then use your timing light to check the actual timing. If it is off, then adjust the trim angle so that timing in the timing table matches the actual timing measured with a light. Then start adjusting fuel bins that you can without driving the car by moving the throttle throughout the load band. You calibrated the TPS, right? If not do that. Then start adjusting the enrichment settings. After that, you need to drive and log, adjust, repeat. Or get it on a dyno. Pete

What are you going to do for trim, keep it chrome/stainless, or got with a darker color to contrast the body color> I'm still on the fence with my car. I'm thinking either stock chrome/stainless, or a charcoal metalic to contrast the orange. Here is my build thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120074

Nice color, looks great!

Where is the #1 plug wire terminal on the distributor cap in relation to the rotor? Is it lined up? Are you getting a signal to MS when you crank it? With a timing light what is the timing? It looks like the Powerforce damper is lining up with the timing tab correctly.

Yes, I will re-clear the whole panel. I will blend it in the narrow area where the roof meets the rear quarter. Did you clear right up to the end of you scuffed area and then the blending spray over the last new coat of clear just in that area? Or did you leave a small scuffed area (that was previously cleared), and then just spray the blender there after the last clear coat? This is what I am using for a blending spray: http://semproducts.com/images/tech_files/38403%20TDS.pdf This says to spray it over the blended edge, which I interpret as having fresh clear on it. Thanks, Pete

Looking really sweet! Did you blen just the color, or did you have to blend the clear too? On my rear quarter I blended the color coat and it came out nice. Now I need to blend the clear at the roof pillar. I was going to use some blending reducer in the clear. Any suggestions? Thanks, Pete

I'm fighting the same time constraint. Want to get mine finished before the cold (New Hampshire cold). I've got just one fender and the lower rear quarter to respray. Had an issue with the base coat lifting in those areas for some reason. I think I didn't allow enough flash time between base coats. Here is a pic:

Did some more painting. Had an issues with the base coat bubbling on a few panels. Here are some photos of the good panels:

Work in progress: Here is my build thread for those interested: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=1069644#post1069644

Engine compartment and underside of hood, hatch, inspection lids, gas door, etc.

After lots of wet sanding here is the final primer-sealer coat:

Car was soda blasted, cleaned, and all of the filler work was done. Here it is with it's final "Feather Fill" primer coat:

You are correct. As I look at the timing marks from the passenger side, the correct mark is the lowest one. Pete

Dude, it was the muffler......

I got mine this week, so he still has or can get them. Seems like he doesn't check his email every day. Great service once you get a hold of him.

I guess you didn't actually read any or my posts.... Pete

Yes, it was rust (or scale) that had vibrated loose from the inner metal mesh that holds the packing in. So enough of it loosened up, and when the engine is running, it only has one place to go, into the diffusers. My suggestion is to remove the discs on a regular basis to check for rust buildup inside the muffler. While your at it clean the discs. Pete