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That's a good deal. I paid $800 to have my car soda blasted. Did they use soda?

Doesn't look like you can download the software by just registering. It is telling me "The topic or board you are looking for appears to be either missing or off limits to you". If you already have the software, can you send me the entire injector list with electrical characteristics? If they are generic injector characteristics, I will add them to my table. Thanks, Pete

440cc/min injectors from what? Somebody has to send me one so I can test it. PM me if you are going to send one. Pete

Are you using EDIS, or sending the VR signal directly to the MS? You should move the sensor. It should be mounted as far away as possible from any electo-magnetic device. This means alternators, cooling fans, etc. I had my VR sensor mounted close to the cooling fan motor. Every time the cooling fan would come on the engine would stumble.

From my experience all you need is the correct collar/clutch fork pair. I've been running a non turbo (or 2+2) collar and clutch fork (280Z) for years with a 240mm flywheel. What you can't do is mix 240Z and 280Z collars and clutch forks. Been there, done that. To the best of my knowledge all L28 collars and clutch forks are the same. The L24 and L26 vary. Also make sure that the disc is on correct. Some discs have rivets that will prevent the disc from sitting flat on the flywheel surface if it is put in backwards.

For NA applications the ITM pistons are good. The ITM part numebr is: RY6134. http://www.coolparts.com/index.php?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=RY6134&x=79&y=7

Dave, nice... Looks a lot like the BSR one: I've got a mold of this one, and at some point will make some of these. Probably end up on the silver car some day.

Chris, you did a great job on the coating. You'll be getting more from me to do soon!

Looks nice Chris. The color looks perfect.

How cold is cold? What is the ambient temperature for the "cold" lash specifications in the FSM? I believe that adjusting them as close to operating temperature as possible is the most accurate way. It really is not all that difficult. Of course you want to adjust them to the "hot" specification in the FSM or on the spec sheet that come with your aftermarket cam. This of course this is 100% correct if you are running a stock temperature thermostat.

It should make 180 - 190HP at the wheels. It also should be at least as fast as a 350Z given it will weigh 1000lb less 8^). It's going to be a nice daily driver.

Thanks! Here is what is under the hood...

What website are you using?

When you you a series resistance the resistance of you resistor pack plays a big factor in the opening time. When using the PWM you can fine tune the settings to get fastest opening time. This essentially what I've done with the measurements that are in the table. The settings in the table will give you the fastest "safe" opening time.

Use the settings in the table, or use a resistor pack. These are low impedance injectors and have to be run with some sort of current limiting or the injector drivers will overheat and go into thermal overload. Use my PWM settings or a resistor pack. Pete

Paul, You are probably right. I didn't check the compression on both engines, and certainly the AFR on the 8.3:1 motor was too rich. I'd still like to see what kind of numbers other have seen with similar setups.

No head mods, hot cam, just bump up the CR from 8.3:1 to 10:1. That is all I'm talking about. Set the max advance on both motors just before detonation. You will find that the high CR motor produces at least 20WHP more than the motor with a stock CR. I'm not guessing here, I've made the measurements that prove this. Has anyone else?

This is not really me against Paul. I jsut would like to see some actual measurements. I have made measurements, and that is why I think it is worth it. "Snap", "feel", etc. are not a very accurate way to measure power output .

Mine is tight, meaning I can barely get the driveshaft mounting flange past the end of the pinion shaft that protrudes beyond the nut on the R160. I do have an RT mount in there Time to make a visit to the drive shaft shop. Thanks, Pete

The stock 240Z driveshaft fits my RB swap, but there is almost no play in the yolk. It's like it is totally bottomed out in the trans. It's an RB25 and RB20 (240SX) trans. The rear end is an R160 LSD. What is the minimum gap between where yolk bottoms out in the transmission and the insertion dept for normal operation. I was thinking around 0.5" or so just to account for rear end and engine movement.

This is what I used in order of application. - 1 gal bare metal (etching) primer - 1 gal filler - 1 gal polyester primer-surfacer + hardener - 1 gal epoxy primer (sealer) - 1 gal urethane color + reducer - 1 gal urethane clear + activator Other - 1 gal Acetone for cleaning gun etc. - 1 gal cleaner + wax remover - tack cloths I probably spent $500 or so on everything. Bought a lot of stuff online, but I also found a great auto body supply store near my office which gave me some great advice. I would probably just buy from them next time. Their prices we not that much more than online. Pete

I agree, AFRs make a huge difference in power output. In this case the 8.3:1 motor is about 1 point richer than the 10:1 motor. Is this enough to cause such a difference? Although I don't like to guess, I would have to say no. Mainly because I have tuned other L28s with the same mods that were running a median 14:1 AFR a never came close to even 150WHP. As far as seat of the pants tests, my 10:1 motor, even with a stock cam, pulled way better than an L28 with a stock CR. I would like to see a dyno plot for an L28 with stock cam and CR make much over 140WHP. I've never seen one.

I totally agree. The engine actually made closer to 195 WHP without detonation. Backing off the timimg 3-4 degrees (for safety) knocked close to 15WHP off. Here are two plots. Both engines are L28s with an N series head. They both have similar intakes and exhaust systems (headers, 2.5" exhaust). The both have a stock camshaft. Both have EFI. The only difference is that one motor has flat tops, the other has dished pistons. WOT ignition advance was set just below the point of detonation. Granted, the engine in the bottom plot is running too rich, and this can explain some of the HP differential. Anyway, it is a good comparison. Same day, same dyno. Pete

Hi Paul, My setup is an example of how to get good power from a budget motor. No head work, no special cam, stock springs, etc. As we all know, a lot can be spent on head work. I spent $100 for a cam plus a regular valve job. This engine could easily be street driven as it runs fine on 93 octane. It IS very sensitive to detonation as you described. As long as you have some head room on timing (which I have 2-4 degrees backed out for safety), this is a good setup for the street. Or if you run closed loop with a knock sensor, you should be fine. I do well over 1000 track miles per year with this motor and it has held up well. I have blown a 2 head gaskets due to detonation, but this was due to fuel pump cavitation in the turns. Do you think that if I swapped my short block for an 8.3:1 L28 it would make 170WHP? I have dyno tuned many stock L28s, or ones with stock CR and a mild cam like I have. If they make 155WHP they are lucky. Usually they are in the 140-150WHP range on the same dyno I tune my car on (sometimes on the same day). This is running over 35 degrees of advance. This is one of your theories I am not a believer in. You will need to show me some dyno measurements to convince me.

L28 (1mm over), flat tops N47 head - no head work - just intake port matching Stock head gasket Comp cams 280 dur., .460 lift cam Round port 6:1 header, 2.5" exhaust, glass pack Megasquirt EFI EDIS ignition 26 deg full advance Solid plot is dual SU throttle bodies: Dotted plot is stock L6 intake