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Hi Paul, My setup is an example of how to get good power from a budget motor. No head work, no special cam, stock springs, etc. As we all know, a lot can be spent on head work. I spent $100 for a cam plus a regular valve job. This engine could easily be street driven as it runs fine on 93 octane. It IS very sensitive to detonation as you described. As long as you have some head room on timing (which I have 2-4 degrees backed out for safety), this is a good setup for the street. Or if you run closed loop with a knock sensor, you should be fine. I do well over 1000 track miles per year with this motor and it has held up well. I have blown a 2 head gaskets due to detonation, but this was due to fuel pump cavitation in the turns. Do you think that if I swapped my short block for an 8.3:1 L28 it would make 170WHP? I have dyno tuned many stock L28s, or ones with stock CR and a mild cam like I have. If they make 155WHP they are lucky. Usually they are in the 140-150WHP range on the same dyno I tune my car on (sometimes on the same day). This is running over 35 degrees of advance. This is one of your theories I am not a believer in. You will need to show me some dyno measurements to convince me.

L28 (1mm over), flat tops N47 head - no head work - just intake port matching Stock head gasket Comp cams 280 dur., .460 lift cam Round port 6:1 header, 2.5" exhaust, glass pack Megasquirt EFI EDIS ignition 26 deg full advance Solid plot is dual SU throttle bodies: Dotted plot is stock L6 intake

Chris, I would try to use that one. I think having the inlet and outlet on the same end gets you a cleaner looking install, and less plumbing. Pete

Chris, Is that the manifold I gave you? Looks great. I LOVE that color. Are thsose 450cc/min DSm injectors? Pete

Got the ECU mounted:

You can probably get them a lot cheaper from your Nissan dealer. If you only need a couple, I have some spare used ones.

Have you tried your local Nissan dealer? Or try Courtesy Nissan.

This is easy to say from someone that lives in SoCal! It is not a good choice for my project for just the fact of having to extend the stock harness. Plus New England weather, wet feet in an out of the car, etc. etc. It will be a driver that my Wife and Daughter can use (main reason for stock NA RB25DE). I just got a notice from Chevy on my Silverado. It seems that wet carpeting caused by wet feet (common in NE) can cause electrical problems with the diagnostic module under the seat. Stereo OK to mount under the seat (can get home without tunes).

There should be no tuning required, so I'm mounting out of the way. I put the blower and heater core back in to see what kind of room I have. I think I'm going to mount it here: Thanks Dave, here are a couple more:

Thanks for the ideas guys. It is a stock Nissan ECU that will be mounted: So I don't need any access to it once it all up and running. The harness enters on the passenger side where they usually run the AC lines. No AC in this car. Under the seat is a good option, but even though I did a good job fixing and sealing the floors, I don't like the idea of having electronics where they can get wet. Plus, my harness is not long enough, and I don't want to lengthen it because it has some shielded cables that I would rather not cut into. I'm thinking about behind the glove box. The was mention RHD cars having a lot of room behind the glove box. I would think that LHD drive would be the same. Thanks, Pete

Got the engine in, and brakes all back together.

This is the only forum I could think of that would cover all EFI swaps into and early S30. Admins, please move if needed. When people are swapping modern engines with EFI into S30s where are they mounting the ECUs? I know that with 280Zs most mount them in the driver side kick panel wheer the stock ECU went. The is one of the things about the 280Z I hate. I want clear access to the dead pedal, and with a 280Z the ECU always seems to be in the way. I've mounted them on the passenger side trans tunnel: Between the seats in a race car: And in the glove box. For my RB project I want it to be hidden from sight if possible. Please post ideas and photos. Thanks, Pete

I ended finding a nut that fit snug into the bushing, then I welded it to the bushing. I took a long bolt and screwed it into the nut until it bottomed out against the crank behind the bushing. As I tightened the bolt it forced the bushing out. This is probably the easiest way to remove it. Took me less than 15 min to do it.

For the street I would run BR6ES (non projected tip, resistor), or B6ES (non resistor). If you do track days you might want to run a BR7ES or B7ES although I've run 6s one my track L28 with similar specs as your without any issues.

That's what I thought. Thanks.

I'm getting ready to install my RB25DE which was originally mated to an automatic transmission. I am going with an RB20 trans because it is NA, and no trans tunnel mods are needed. I'm using an RB25 flywheel, and I have a Z32 clutch kit. I am trying to figure out the pilot busing. The pilot busing fits nicely over the input shaft of the RB20 trans, but the pilot bushing doesn't look like it will fit at all into the end of the crankshaft. The crankshaft has an insert of some sort. Do I need to remove this? It looks like the pilot busing wil be too small if I remove it. Is the Z32 pilot bushing the right one? Thanks, Pete

I guess I don't understand the advantage of an oil system like that. It still is a wet sump. I don't know that I would trust the modifications to the stock pump. Unless you plan on doing serious road racing with it I'd use a new stock pump, pickup and pan. If you can use that pan with a stock pickup then at least you can get the better baffling if you at least are doing auto-X or track days. A full road race L6 usually has a dry sump and external aftermarket oil pump that runs off the crankshaft pulley with remote filters.

It looks more like soda blasting where the metal is not deformed at all. In fact it is as smooth as when it was molded. If it is like soda blasting it does nothing to remove rust. You have to spot blast the rust spots with sand to remove rust. Nice part about dry ice is that there residue that needs to be removed like with soda.

Exactly, once you do all the prep for the color coat, then once the color flashes for 30 min or so, tack cloth it and spray the clear.

I tried it a couple years ago, and couldn't get it to trigger properly. Maybe they have improved it, or maybe my sound card sucks. What you need to get is a high impedance probe (1M Ohm), and then make a coaxial cable to go from BNC to 1/8" phono.

I'm running 245-45ZR16 all around. Stock control arms with eccentric bushings (-1.5deg camber). 1" sway bar, coil overs. Short bump steer spacers. That's it.

I have a 350Z bone stock daily driver and I love the car. There is really no need to do a hybrid swap in a 350Z (sorry if this statement goes against the HybridZ rules). Properly built, the VQ35 can make over 1200WHP. At Z Days this year there was a 350Z drag race car that put over 900HP to the wheels on the "low boost" setting. The owner say it will make over 1200HP on full boost. He was running some sort of automatic transmsission. I've tuned a number of 350Z with turbo/SC kits installed, and 380-400WHP on stock internals is doable as long as it is tuned correctly (and safely). A 380WHP 350Z is crazy fast, and has the chassis to handle it. So why hack up a 350Z to replace such great engine with such potential (I'm in no way against swaps, I'm doing an RB25 swap in a 240Z now)? Pete

The numbers look a little low, but like S130Z said, it is more important that they are consistent across all cylinders. Was the engine at operating temperature? Pete

We speculate all day on what the problem MIGHT be, but the fact is that you will have to take it apart anyway to find out for sure. Git your wrenches a turnin' Sounds to be like a rod bolt might have come loose. Pete

You used a razor blade to get most of the run out? I am assuming using it perpendicular to the surface? Thanks, Pete