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Not really. I just got the new washers, and arranged them in a way that I can't remember. All I know that it works well, and has not broken after lots of street use and at least 5 track days behind a 320ft-lb motor. I'm using (abusing) it, not jacking off over which way the washers should be installed.

What about molding one from an oil/heat resistant composite of some sort? I'm not sure if such a material exists, but it would be easy to make a mold of a stock one. Anyone know who the OEM is that makes pans for Nissan?

You can use a Megasquirt to do what the Tim Systems thing does. Except now you have a full 12x12 fuel map to program the fuel curve. While your at it, have it control the ignition too. This piggy back box stuff is all well and good, but I would either just do it with carbs (with some of Tony's suggestions), or just go all out EFI. A hybrid of the two is just a CF IMO. With all the effort need to install an EFI pump, surge tank, larger return line, etc. etc. to run EFI, you might as well just go all out EFI. Or stick with carbs.

I'm 6'2" and 250lbs and I fit in a 280Z. It might be a little tight width wise. 240Z have a bit more room. I drive my 240Z 700miles in one day without feeling too bad after.. The stock seats are not all that comfortable. I put Miata seats in mine, and it made a big difference in comfort.

When I do the same to an RB26DETT project I'm working on, I'll create the same kind of schematic and post it here. It will be for an R33. Pete

Here is the schematic I created for my R34 RB25DE Neo swap. It started right up last night . Note that this schematic is only good for R34 RB series engines!

Here is the schematic I created for my R34 RB25DE Neo swap. It started right up last night . R34 ONLY!

Here is the schematic I created for my R34 RB25DE Neo swap. It started right up last night. R34 ONLY!

Probably the best RB standalone is the Wolf V500, which can be ordered with a harness adapter that plugs directly into the factory harness. Yea, you can save a lot of money with Megasquirt, but be prepared for headaches. You will need to get the cam sensor working yourself, and it doesn't support sequential injection. Check msefi.com for any RB success stories.

My concern exactly. Can you guys remove the trans without at least moving the engine forward a bit? Mine I will definitely have to. Thanks, Pete

The middle tank looks just like the tank in my 71'. Not sure if it is original, but it appears to be. Pete

The blue one (that he sold I think). Does he have a new turbo car, or are you talking about the old one? Pete

I've been lurking around looking at RB engine placement, and it seems like people either mount it in what looks like the stock L6 location, and others (like myself) have mounted it much closer to the firewall. I understand that having it sit further back can improve F/R balance from a handling perspective. But what other reasons? I place mine closer back because it put the shift right in the middle of the stock tunnel hole. I'm running and RB25DE with the FS5W71C 5 Spd from an RB20DET. Plus it make the stock exhaust manifold exit in a nice location. Here is where mine is sitting: Where does everyone else have them mounted? Thanks, Pete

Nice paint job and color!

Looks real clean Clive. Still has plastic on doors. Now I know what it should look like! My project car is a SoCal car, so it's solid, but the interior is toast. The only thing worth saving was the headliner. I am building MS harnesses this winter for a few select people. Chris Holmes was running one of my harnesses in his 280Z. PM me if interested. Pete

With the changes you have made, the stock injectors and fuel rail are more than adequate (unless you want bling). What you really need to decide is if you want to keep it reasonable stock (keep the stock ECU) or not. If you want to keep the stock ECU, then changing injectors is really a waste of time and money. If you are interested in switching to an aftermarket ECU, this will get you the most performance out of what you have already done. If after tuning the aftermarket ECU your engine "needs" more fuel, then I would look into new injectors at that point. I would suggest 280ZX turbo injectors as they will work with your stock fuel rail. The stock fuel rail (although not all that pretty), is a good design, and is good for well over 300WHP. Pete

I would expect more too. My car made about the same power with the stock long block and turbo at 12psi. When I upgraded the turbo to a T04E compressor and stage 3 turbine the power jumped to almost 300WHP at 12psi. This was on a Dynapack BTW. I agree with Drax240z, dynos are really only good for relative measurements. Except when comparing cars measured on the SAME dyno. Comparing absolute measurements on different dynos is not all that accurate. Use the dyno to get the most out of your setup by incrementally measuring the effect of changes you make. Pete

I'm talking Megasquirt only here. It's not about knowing the minimum opening time, it's knowing what to set the PWM parameters to for the injectors you are using. The only way to do this is by determining the minimum opening time using the Megasquirt PWM parameters, a current probe, and a scope. Once I determine the minimum opening time I add some padding to the PWM parameters so that the injector drivers always deliver a little more current than is required to fully open the injector in the minimum time. But not too much current where the injectors or injector drivers overheat. The goal is to give the injector just enough current to open fully as quickly as possible. Giving the injector a little extra current is to account for variations in injector characteristics from on injector to another. If you are going to use the PWM feature on Megasquirt you really need to know this. For other ECUs, you are right, you don't need to know this because these settings are hard coded into the ECU to work with "typical" low Z injector characteristics. For Megasquirt (without using series current limiting resistors and low Z injectors), you have to set the PWM correctly. If you just guess, either the injectors will never fully open, the injectors will overheat, or the Megasquirt injector drivers will go in an out of thermal overload. I know this because I can make it happen on the bench. Aftermarket commercially available ECUs do not give you this level of control over the injector drive characteristics (most likely for warranty reasons). With this level of control comes flexibility, but also risk if you don't set it up correctly. Pete

So I bled the system again following some suggestions that I found on NicoClub. Held the pedal to the floor, then cracked the bleeder valve. Then I pushed the pushrod all the way in while the bleeder was cracked open. Closed the bleeder while the push rod was all the way in. The Pedal then seemed firmer. So I'm not sure of any of that did anything, because I ended up just putting a pipe wrench on the driveshaft to try and turn it, and it broke free. Now I can turn the driveshaft easily with my hand. Mabe the disc was stuck to the flywheel? I cleaned the disc and flywheel with brake cleaner before putting it all together. Anyway, the clutch works now! Thanks for the suggestions. Pete

Joe, Are you saying that you won't let my car into your garage ? Not Lemans sunset, just brighter. Clive, looking awesome!

Depends on how you look at it. When I say engage the clutch, I mean disengage the engine from the transmission. If I were disengaging the clutch, I would be engaging the engine to the transmission. I did a quick rebuild on the slave I got with the trans (11/16), and tried it. Still no luck. The one I had in there before was a 3/4". Correct me if I'm wrong. If the master and slave are the same diameter, the distance the slave piston moves will be the same as the master. If the slave piston is larger, it will move less than the master, but with less effort. I'm seeing less movement with the smaller (11/16) slave, so I must still ahve air in the system. But why when I move the clutch fork over an inch with a pry bar is the transmission still engaged with the engine?

I figured that. Since you have the software, can you see if the minimum opening time for an injector part number is available? If not, then they will need to be measured. We are talking about minimum opening time for a given injector design. This is determined by the electrical and mechanical characteristics of that particular injector part number. It is very important if you are setting the PWM up in MS with low Z injectors. Other ECUs may use high Z injectors or external resistors, and in that case it is irrelevant.

I'm pretty sure the disc is in correctly. Otherwise it would not sit flat against the flywheel. Looks like I will have to pull the motor and trans. Even if I use a prykbar to move the clutch fork more than an inch, it still doesn't engage.

There is no air in the system. The pedal is firm, and pressure is even throughout its travel. I did a bit more research on this. As we know, the RB20 transmissions is the same on the inside as the 240SX. So I looked up the diameter of the master cylinder and it is the same as the 240z (5/8"). There are two different slave cylinders depending on years, 11/16" and 3/4". I need to measure the on on the car. Pete

I'm having an issue with the clutch engaging on my swap. Here are the details: RB25DE RB20 Trans, clutch fork, bearing collar RB25 Flywheel Z32 clutch, bearing, pilot bushing (new) 240SX slave cylinder and push rod (new) 240Z clutch master cylinder Clutch forks moves about 3/8", but the clutch never engages to the point where I can turn the driveshaft when in gear. In neutral I can turn the driveshaft. The driveshaft turns with the clutch pedal to the floor, in gear, and turning the engine at the crank pulley. Any ideas?