z-ya

I was thinking of popping the freeze plug from the left end of the balance tube (the right end will go to the brake booster) and taping it to 3/8" NPT for the IAT sensor, but I'm concerned about there not being much flow through the balance tube, which could cause inaccurate IAT compensation. Pete

From the number of pins on the connector you can determine if there are coil drivers built in or not. If all connections are grouped into one connector: 4 pins = no drivers built in 5 pins = drivers built in Pete

Yup, I have access to a Bridgeport, so I could potentially do it that way also. I need to decide if I want to make an air box that the horns are a integral part of (like the 240 air box). If I go that route, I want more than some epoxy holding the assembly to the TBs. This is why I was thinking some sort of hose/clamp arrangement. I don't really have a place in the intake to mount the IAT, so I was thinking of putting it in the air box. If I go without an air box and use some filter screens, I'm not sure where I would put the IAT. Any ideas Tony?

I never actually measured one Tony, just a guess. I guess because I never actually left one in a car. Pete

Thanks Dave. Not sure what it will do to the torque curve. I'm also upgrading to MSII while I'm at it (it is so easy to justify these kinds of decisions in your own mind , you know, while I'm in there). I'll have it back on the dyno in the spring and will post a plot for sure. Pete

Great idea Tony. Just keep your hands and feet away from that TB when it is spinning (ouch) in the lathe! I may also shorten them a bit while I'm at it to give me more room for an airbox. Pete

I was at a JDM engine importer in Texas a few years back, and every L6 in the building (at least 20), had the valve cover like yours Monzter. I've got the same one on my road racer (thanks Braap!). Pete

Derek, From the pictures it looks like you have a balance tube for each casting. If you are going to control idle with an air valve of some sort you have to provide equal air to all cylinders. So you may want to plumb in air to each TB bank from a common source. Or tie both balance tubes together in the middle and keep your vacuum connection the same. Pete

If you have a stimulator, use that.

Yes, this is what I am planning. I might use part of the 240Z airbox. I want to get cool air from in front of the radiator support. This seems like the best way to do it. Pete

I found these on Ebay ($10 for pair!). 48mm IDA stacks. Almost slide into throttle bodies. Too thin to turn down in a lathe. I think I am going to build a cold air box with these inside, kind of like the stock 240Z air box. When the stacks are welded into the airbox, it will clamp on with hoses and clamps.

If you are using it on the street, you don't really need a surge tank. Just keep more than 1/4 tank in there. If it get's below that it will suck air as the fuel sloshes around. If you have the surge tank and extra pump, might as well put it in while you at it. You can use a low pressure pup as the lift pump BTW.

Again... http://www.datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htm

Maybe you just need a resonator along side the drive shaft. Pete

the stock 240Z return is 1/4", and is on the passenger side along with the feed. The other 5/16" line is on the driver side and goes to the top of the expansion tank above the gas filler. Whether you use a surge tank or not, you still need a return. In fact, you need two returns with a surge tank, one back to the main tank, and on one back to the surge tank from the regulator. Pete

1mm

The 5/16" line is fine, but the 1/4" return is too small for EFI. You want zero pressure (flow only) behind the regulator, so that back pressure doesn't effect the high pressure side. I'm not sure about using a 280Z line, I think they are quite different. I know people that have use two stock 240Z 5/16" lines, one for a feed, the other as a return. You can also make new lines using 5/16" aluminum tubing (easy to bend). Don't run rubber lines under the car as they can be easily damaged by road debris. Pete

How about some more information? For starters, What Z do you have?

That tach looks just like a 280Z tach. It is a voltage not current sensing tach. You can do one of three things: - Use the EDIS module output (if it works) - Use the diode circuit you posted above - Use one of the spare outputs as a tacho ouput in the MS and add a driver circuit to the proto area of the V3 PCB.

Austin, A friend of mine has installed at least 30 GReddy E-Manage units in 350Zs. They have an adapter harness that hooks it in with the factory ECU without any wire cutting or splicing. He has tuned many 400+HP turbo and supercharged 350Zs using an E-Manage. Here is a quote from him on his latest NA 350Z project: http://www.holyrollerdyno.com/Holyroller_Dyno_Library/Downloads_files/Media/Picture%204/Picture%204.jpg?disposition=download Pretty impressive improvements to the midrange torque... Pete

If you have the 350Z harness and ECU, I would go that route. The time it will take you to build a MS harness, debug it, tune it, etc. is not worth it. In the end you have something that will never run as good as a stock 350Z. Those Nissan engineers are pretty sharp, and they spend way more time on a dyno and test track than any of us ever will. Also, if you disable the variable valve timing you will loose that nice flat torque curve the VQ35 has. Again, Nissan has done the work for you,. Sell your Megasquirt and pickup a 350Z ECU and harness. Pete

What year is your tach from? If it is a 70-72 tach it is a current sensing tach. If it is from a 70-72, you can just power the EDIS coil pack from the black/white wire that powered the original 240Z coil. The tach will count current pulses, it doesn't care if multiple coils are creating those pulses.

As you probably know, the best way to increase CR is by changing pistons. ITM L28 flat tops (part number RY6134) are $33 each (~$200) with rings and pins. This is route I would go using your Z N47 head. Use a stock head gasket, and your CR is around 10:1. I've been running these in my race car for three seasons now, and they are holding up fine. As far as milling the stock head, I would not go more than 1mm using a stock head gasket. As far as the MN47 head, since you are not looking for big HP numbers, you can use it as is to increase CR to around 9.22:1 with a Felpro gasket. Pete

My RB25DE NEO project will be a street driver in the New England, so I am not so worried about overheating. For $50, I got a nice clean used radiator. If I have problems with it, I'll find another one, or go aftermarket. In my road racer I have only run USED radiators, and have never had overheating problems. Once season I ran a 2 core 240Z radiator! It makes about the same power as the RB25DE I'm putting in my street car project, and I'm certainly not going to push my street car anywhere near as hard as my road racer. Yea, if I were going bonkers with a 400HP RB build, I'd be putting a lot more into the cooling system. Pete

Agreed, but I'm sure the VQ swap is at least 2 times the work. I've got 2 other Zs that require my attention on a regular basis, and both are driven on the track. So I really wanted an easy swap, and with RB20 trans, it is looking that way. Been studying the RB25DE NEO schematics, and holy sh*t, I need to add 12 fuses, and 4 relays to the 240Z! Not quite as simple as a Megasquirt installation. The RB project will be driven by my wife an daughter on occasion, so a VQ is a bit much. I've got my turbo Z for when I need a little "Woo Hoo!"