z-ya

For that kind of power I would pick up a P90 and have port work done to it.

My turbo motor has a P90A hydraulic head, and makes 250WHP at 500RPM and 12psi. The limiting factor is that I am running a stock turbine wheel, so it can't flow enough to make any more. I have a T04E/T3 with the stage 3 turbine wheel sitting on the shelf. My goal is to get that installed with a 3 in exhaust this summer. I'll let you know what numbers I get. I'm shooting for 300-332WHP at 6000 or so RPM.

What is your doing - not doing as expected? Is there some sort of behavior you are trying to correct? Is it unstable at certain speeds or when braking?

The journals are align-honed at the factory, so you must put the cam towers back in the same order as when they came from the factory. I put the cam towers on loose with the bolts just started. Then I insert the cam with plenty of oil on all the journals. The cam should spin freely without any binding. Then start snugging down the tower bolts using the correct order. After you snug each bolt, make sure the cam still spins freely. Continue to snug down each bolt checking cam movement. Once all the bolts are snugged, torque them to spec, again checking for cam movement after torquing each bolt.

No, I have not run the softer springs in the front. The spring heights are different in the front vs. rear, so I can't get the proper ride height if I swap them. What springs are you running front/rear?

Yes, my mistake, they are Tokico HTS. I will fix my original post. Thanks for the heads-up. Pete

The HTS are infinitely adjustable, and have heavier duty valving (at least that is what I remember). John Coffey at Beta Motorsports can chime in and give more details.

Bad dog has a new lower stance: New camber plates installed this winter. Lower ride height. Corner balanced within 100lbs or so. Setup (per John Coffeys recommendations): I'm running 225-50ZR15 tires: Front: Camber: 3.1 neg Toe: 1/8" out Ride height: 5 1/2" Rear: Camber: 2.5 neg Toe: 1/8" in Ride height: 5 3/4" I played around with the Tokico HTS strut damping, but didn't really notice much difference. I've got them set 3 turns out now. Front springs are 375lb, rears are 350lb Car turns much better. The event I did Friday was just a practice day. I'll have to wait until the next time trial event to see if I am in fact going faster

Jeff, I don't think anyone here is questioning your L6 knowledge. I for one am amazed at the amount of power you can get from a turbo L6 (we chatted at an MSA show a few years ago). But this is an open discussion forum, not a personal attack on your ability. You are correct in saying that it is important to know your cam timing, especially in a highly modified engine, otherwise you are not going to get the most out of it. I tend to agree with BRAAP that the stock tensioner will work just fine in this application, but adding an adjustable cam sprocket so you can adjust cam timing should be a requirement. This of course assuming that engine RPMs won't exceed 7000RPM.

I think 280ZXs came with both the R180 and R200 depending on model. Some came with the 3.9:1 R200. None were LSDs.

I wasn't really nit picking, it just didn't look like a trigger wheel that would work very well attached to a crank damper . So it is a 82-83 disty trigger wheel (that is what it looks like), correct?

what is it? It looks like a newer gas cap sitting on the hatch (or glued to it).

0.005" is not enough to make a difference in the timing chain slack. Your stock 78' L28 is around 8.3:1 CR. Putting the P90 on there with the stock dished pistons will drop the CR to around 7.4:1. So if plan on using the P90, you need to shave it or you will make less power than the N47 you have on there now. What are you HP goals? I realize you just got the P90, but the N47 will do what you need without shimming or shaving. The problem is that whether you shim and shave the P90, or just keep the N47, your CR will be too low to make enough power to make the work worthwhile. To make decent power on a street NA L28, your CR should be in the 9-10:1 range. The best way to do this is flat top pistons and an N-series or shaven P-series head. If you don't want to mess with the short block, do some work on the N47 and use a Felpro gasket to get a little more CR.

The thread title says "crank". Is this really a crank sensor? Looks more like one from an optical distributor.

I think you have cool idea there, but with a V belt driving everything, it may slip, especially at high RPM. I know some people are running serpentine belts on NA L6s, but if you are going to go through all of that, you might as well just make a serpentine pulley to mount on the crank damper.

Take your time, do it right. The ITM gasket set has a good head gasket, but the valve cover/oil pan, and intake/exhast gaskets are kind of cheap. It takes a lot of patience to get the deformed cork oil pan gasket on there right. And the cork valve cover gasket is not worth even using. Mine lasted less than on track day, and it made a mess when it let go.

Lookin' good. Nice work!

I think the color looks good. Not sure if I have seen an orange 2+2 before. Nice work.

Here is my "rat rod", I mean restoration candidate. Code name "The Work Bench". One of these days....

I've used the ITM brand on a couple builds now, and the quality is decent. The last motor I built I had balanced with ITM pistons, and it wasn't too far off (can't remember exact amount, but it was close). I think balance is also important for engine life if you are going to run it at high RPMs (6500+) for long periods of time.

Do you have the gauge on the return side?

Do they look the same in the photo? I know the early 280Z FPRs were different from the later ones. The ins and outs were in different locations. If you have a 77. then you have the later design. This is same design for all 280Z and 280ZX (including turbo) from late 1975 and on.

This kind of post won't get you too far with this crowd. There are a few on this forum that do talk down to people, and frankly I wish they would stop it. Your post above will only add flames to that fire BTW. For some of us, having to answer the same questions over and over again, gets really old. I answered the same questions (again) in my first post to this thread. Did I say the 77 280Z didn't have dished pistons? Please read my initial post again....

It just many people put every motor vehicle they own in their sig. I took it one step further and listed everything "gas powered". I'm thinkin' of turbocharging my Homelite..... The louver is made by Interpart, and it slips under the window seal, and also uses double sided tape to attach it to the glass. No drilling. It tilts for cleaning an has rubber bumpers on each lover that rest on the glass. I'll look to see if I have the bottom brackets. My plate is Z-YA.

Use stock cast rings. If you can get them from Nissan, great, if not Deves makes high quality cast rings. I have a set of Badger L24 pistons if you are interested.