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Tony, just found this thread... Engine sounds awesome. I like the "Dashy"

I know this has been beat to death, but it is not more complicated to tune with A RR FPR. If you have enough capacity in your injectors, use a stock regulator. If you are on the hairy edge of having enough fuel capacity, a RR FPR can get more fuel out of your fuel system by increasing the fuel pressure beyond a 1:1 ratio. I have tuned a number of cars, (including my own) that have RR FPRs, and there is no difference in tuning. The goal of tuning is to hit your target AFR across all load and map points regardless of fuel pressure. Think of a RR FPR as an automatic FPR that increases fuel pressure when you really need it (under boost). The problem with using a fixed adjustable regulator is that you have a higher pressure all the time. The pressure may be too high at idle to achieve decent idle quality (depending on your ecu).

No, you don't need to remove the head. The difficult part is putting the timing cover back on when the head and oil pan are installed. You will end up destroying the oil pan gasket (cork) where it meets the bottom of the timing cover. No fear, you can fix this by just cutting away the oil pan gasket where the timing cover sits, install the timing cover, then seal it with silicone sealant (clean it good with a solvent first). As far as changing the timing set it is important to remember that L series are interference engines, and you cannot just spin the crank when the timing chain is not installed. You will most likely bend some valves if you force it. Get the engine at TDC with the cam gear aligned to the mark on the cam tower. Follow the instructions in the service manual.

I would guess that it is a late 71', or 72' motor because of the E88 head. The carbs are round tops which came on 70-72 motors. It could be an L24 from a 73' 240Z with early carbs also. None of this really matters because it looks like you have a good setup for a stock L24. You have the preferred carbs, and the only way to could improve the long block is to put an E31 head on it for a slightly higher compression ratio. Not really worth the effort IMO. Get it running good, drive it, and have fun. I f you want to modify it, you cam to the right website.

You can order them through Digikey. $2.29 for the connector, and $2.23 for the shell. http://www.megamanual.com/v3bom.htm

The cover says 4.44 (which is a very common ratio) but the ring gear has a 4.625 stamped on it. R190 CLSD photos: R190 left, R200 right.

Anything is possible. It would not be a trivial modification. It would require some hardware / firmware design. Because the MS is MAP based, having one knob could pose some issues. Why would you want this kind of control? You can make adjustments to the MS fuel and spark tables in real time. Spend some time on the dyno, set it, and forget it.

Yes, like all EFI systems, you need to regulate the fuel in the rail. You also need to keep the vacuum line so that the pressure at the tip of the injector is the same regardless of the manifold pressure/vacuum. The stock regulator will work find for most all applications.

I've seen people mount them to the bumper mounting points in the front and rear. Seemed to work fine. Keep all the cross members in place if you are welding in new sheet metal or structural reinforcement (diff, tranny, under engine cross members). Keeping these bolted in place will keep it somewhat rigid. I remember it being difficult to get the tranny cross member installed after putting new floors in.

I did the same thing when I put my RT mount in. Dropping the bolts down from the top makes it easier to swap diffs, but the nuts will hit the cross member. I bolted up the cross member, removed it, and drilled holes where the nuts left indents. For some reson I have a lot more room between my cross member and the diff. It shouldn't make contact.

I got my hands on an R190 CLSD. Do we need photos of one? I can post some photos of people are interested. It's going in the race car in a month or so. Interesting looking case. Cover has same bolt pattern as R180, but is deeper to clear the 190mm ring gear. Also, the ratio is not stamped on the ring gear, but on the cover in two places. I've got an R200 3.9:1 CLSD in there now. The R190 is a 4.44:1. Should actually get it into 5th on the straights now. Should pull a little better up hill now too.

It doesn't matter. You can connect them either way. I usually connect them the same across all injectors, but I don't think there will be any noticable difference if you don't. Nice avatar BTW .

A few people are running them. Mine car is still on jack stands for the winter, so I won't know for a few more weeks if my swap went OK. I think these are fairly decent units, but a Quaife is better quality. You can buy 4 of the OBX unit for the price of one Quaife. If your OBX has the 12.9 grade bolts (mine did), then all you need to do is swap in new washers. McMaster Carr has them for around $7. They are easy to install. If you don't have the right tools to setup the ring and pinion, have someone do it for you. It cost me $100 for the labor. Another note from my OBX install. The OBX ring gear flange must be thicker than the one on the stock open carrier. The reason why I say this is that the ring gear bolts will rub against the housing if the bolt heads are not positioned with the flat part of the hex down. With mine, even with them situated that way I still had a very slight rub. Nothing that a tiny bit of filing of the suspect bolt wouldn't cure.

Good one....

Like the scheme. Nice work!

That really limits your ride height adjustment. You also may not be able to get the ride height and or travel where you want it with that limitation. A 1/2" spacer is no big deal as long as you run longer studs.

Or you can run +20 offset all around. The 17x7.5 +20 are perfect if you have coilovers (5" BS). 17x8.5 +20 in the rear would require 1/2" spacers for 5" back space.

Anyone interested in using these wheels in a staggered configuration? I was thinking the 17x7.5 +4 front, 17x8.5 +4 rear. You buy one size, I by the other, and we do a swap for a staggered look?

That makes sense. Whatever, or got new bearings in there.

When I picked up the differential, Skip clarified is reason for having to replace the bearings. He says that to properly setup the ring and pinion, you need to install and remove the bearings a number of times (not sure how many). After you press on and pull off that many times, the bearings should be replaced. He will do the job without new bearings, but he won't guarantee the work. If go ahead with the new bearings, he hones the old bearing so he can slip them on and off the carrier during the setup process. Once it is setup, he presses the new bearings on the carrier.

As Paul said, this is not a mechanical interference problem, it is detonation, period. I just pulled apart my supercharged motor that had been pinging for a while (couldn't hear it over the sound of the SC), and the only reason the head gasket didn't blow was the fact that I had a metal one in there. All the pistons have broken skirts.

Keep it installed, just disconnect the vacuum line and plug it at the manifold so you don't have a vacuum leak.

Have to tried to disconnect the BOV? Remove the vacuum line and plug it on the manifold side. Note that now you will have a new sound, the sound of all that pressure slamming against the throttle plate when you let off the throttle after boost. My BOV flutters a lot at part throttle when the manifold pressure is around atmospheric.

I haven't installed a v500 yet, but 3.0, and 4.0 Wolf units use a 3+1 type wheel for 6 cylinders.

Yes, I agree, it is not the greatest motor. I will say that it moves a fairly heavy Altima around very well, and gets great mileage. I will also say that they make a lot of interesting noises (at least my Wife's did). She traded it in for a new Jetta with the 2.5L I5. That is a motor to really hate. It might be reliable, but it always sounds like it is missing on a cylinder, and it is very noisy. The VW 2.5L I4 is a much better engine (sorry for the off topic).